No spark, good CAS, possible bad coil packs? (read for what I've tested)

[_97tsiawd_]

Car is a 92 TSI. In testing the coil packs I have found my secondary resistance to be low. Haynes manual says it should be between 11.3k and 15.3k. Mine, both between 1 and 4, and 2 and 3 test at 9.8k. My question is, can it give a no spark condition with it only being 2 or 3 K low? I have tested two different known-to-be-working CAS's with the same result. My injectors are firing but no spark. Plugs and wires are both less than 3 months old and in perfect shape. Tried two different working ECU's. Car was running fine up until about Saturday, when it starting dying at stop lights and such. Then, I came to a stop sign and it died for good Sunday night. The 7 pin coil pack "ignitor" that is located just under the coil packs on the block has also been replaced. The coolant temp sensor has been replaced, as well as its wiring. No CEL this whole time either.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[92AWDHX40]

How about wiring in the system no spark, ecu, problem or coil pack, are all i can think of including the coolant temp sensor.

 

[_97tsiawd_]

Ill have to do a run through on the wiring. I've done a quick visual inspection on all wiring on top of the engine and couldn't spot any problem areas. I did have one other question; the haynes manual speaks of another test where you connect the negitive test lead the "body of the coil pack". where is that speaking of? The positive lead goes the pin 1 on the connector.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I dont know i never tested it before.

 

[_97tsiawd_]

well I managed to get spark but STILL won't start. It cranks and cranks, but will not even attempt to fire. I have tested the fuel pump using the test connector behind the battery. The pump turns on as soon as you connect the lead, but when I turn the key to the "on" position there is no initial "two second" sound. Could the fact that I am not running stock effect the results of the test according to my Haynes? It states: if you don't hear anything when you initially put the key in the on position, then you need to "install a jumper wire to the positive side of the battery onto the fuel pump check terminal. Listen at the fuel filler opening once again - if you now hear the whirring sound, the fuel pump relay or its control circuit is faulty" I have a wally 255 that is rewired properly and have had no issues before.

I'm pretty much at a loss here, I've tried everything that I can think of. I've got fuel (so it seems) spark, good battery and still nothing.

Something else I just noticed, my s-afc ii also doesn't turn on with the ignition in the "on" position anymore . I didn't install it and I'm not sure how it is SUPPOSED to be installed, but I've looked and all of the wires look good and nothing looks odd. I do know that it has NOT had the blue wire mod done. looking into it, the install seems legit and hey, it was working before!

OK, fuel pump now for sure working 100%. This is getting stupid now. I even got new coil packs. I've checked all wiring, fuses, relays, fusible links... everything. From reading my posts, is there anything that anybody can think of that's causing this situation? Again, I've got fuel and spark, a good MAS. The car cranks over and over all day but will not even attempt to fire. Please read the list of things that I have tried before answering.

 

[Total Eclipse]

To narrow it down a little, when you say you are getting fuel, are your fuel injectors fireing, or are you asuming this from hearing th pump running?

 

[_97tsiawd_]

The injectors are indeed firing, all four. Could hear them when i removed the CAS and spun it by hand

 

[miguelmcv]

I didn't read the hole post but, have you test your cooling sensor.

If it is bad it will make it harder to start or will not even start.

 

[_97tsiawd_]

Yes, ive replaced it and the wiring. Why would you comment without reading the whole post first? That is no help to the original poster.

 

[wrencher]

Now that you have things semi sorted out...
Sure after all that checking & cranking the engine it's not flooded?
(not sure if you where turning the motor over a lot or?)
If it had no spark & the injectors where working, it'll can load it up.

 

[_97tsiawd_]

Not flooded. Here is a question though, If I spun the CAS by hand and heard the injectors fire, is it still possible that when I am actually cranking it their not? I tested my injector wire clips and I'm not getting battery voltage. Hardly any voltage in fact. I tested my resistor pack and got 6.3 ohms across the board except for one pin witch was 7.7. I also tried the screwdriver test on the injectors while cranking and heard nothing. I just don't get how I heard them when spinning the CAS by hand!

Welp, scratch everything I've said. I decided to pull my timing cover off and well... cams aren't spinning. Now here is where it get's really weird. The crank and all of my belts ARE spinning and the timing belt has tension. How is this possible? There are no bad noises when I crank it. The pistons aren't hitting the valves. The car ran perfect before it wouldn't start and there wasn't some bad noise or anything when it died.