ECMlink Idle tuning 1G

[phantom_19]

Hi

Today I did my first log on my dads talon.
First off, It idles at 1K rpm even though i set it to 750 in ECMlink.
My TPS reads high(4.75V) when it gets to a certain stance. Would the TPS be bad? Or do I have to adjust it. I have a 2G unhacked MAF

My airflow per rev is too low too. 880cc injectors by PTE. I have set the deadtime to 420usec as suggested by link. My base fuel pressure is 37 psi.
I tried adjusting the MAFcomp sliders from 1 to 50 Hz by as much as 10% both in positive and negative direction, but this did not affect my AirflowperRev.

When i throttle it, my exhaust gets black smoke. When i get off the throttle I get white smoke. I havent tuned it yet for higher rpms.
Also when I changed the oil today it smelled like gas in it. Would this mean that either my valve seals or piston rings are bad?
The car has been standing still for 2 years with this setup. But today I logged it for the first time. Hopefully some one can guide me through this.
Thank you

 

[snowborder714]

Add ISCPosition and MAFRaw to your captured and displayed values lists.

Adjust your TPS by hand (possibly might need to adjust the throttle cable tension as well). While you're doing this, have link streaming/logging so you can watch the TPSVolts value. When you get it to read .63v, you're good. Then follow this to finish setting the TPS.
v3tpsadj [ECMTuning - wiki]

If your base fuel pressure is 37 psi, then you need to adjust your global %. Use the built-in calculator with the appropriate values (current base fuel pressure is set at 43.5 psi).

To get the idle down, you need to adjust the BISS screw. This is where the ISCPosition value comes into play. You want to get this down to 30. The adjustments to the BISS screw must be made with the car warmed up and very slowly. Move it 1/4 turn and let it sit for a bit to settle and relearn the idle. Then keep adjusting if necessary.

Once that's set, watch this video and replicate the steps to get AirflowPerRev and CombinedFT in check.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/fueltrim.html

Watch the rest of these videos while you're at it.
ECMTuning, Inc.

Then post an idle log once that's all done.

 

[phantom_19]

Okay after a long while of doing nothing I decided to go ahead and get the idle tuning down.
I have a new log. I did a BLT and found a few, I still need to fix a really small leak at the TB.But I am around -20 now.
I added the ISCPosition like you mentioned and saw that it stays at 120 at all times. Cold to Idle, I adjusted the BISS screw but saw no increase or decrease in the ISC value.
So I'll be testing the ISCmotor when I have some free time.
I did everything that the ECMlink website did and got the Idle tuning setup complete. Does everything look normal now guys?
Thank you

 

[Calan]

I added the ISCPosition like you mentioned and saw that it stays at 120 at all times. Cold to Idle, I adjusted the BISS screw but saw no increase or decrease in the ISC value. So I'll be testing the ISCmotor when I have some free time. I did everything that the ECMlink website did and got the Idle tuning setup complete. Does everything look normal now guys?

How did you set up the idle tuning without a working ISC?

 

[phantom_19]

Well I just looked at where it idles RPM wise. Its not stable, I set it to around 900 just by adjusting the BISS . I know its not the way its done. Might explain why the car stalls when given a good amount of gas from idle. I read how to check the ISC so i'll be doing that tomorrow.

 

[steve]

ODoes everything look normal now guys?
Thank you

At about 50 seconds into that log either the ECU goes crazy or you have some electrical problem. Note what happens to the IAT and ECT. I'm assuming you really were playing with the throttle and that it wasn't also getting bad data.

 

[phantom_19]

I was partly throttling it until it reached 2step. I also see that its getting negative read outs. What could this mean for the performance of the car. What is the ECU going to compensate for when getting the IAT and ECT negative readouts?

Im getting so unmotivated by this car. Im trying to get the tuning down. Today i started the car did a little tuning. The ISC value either goes up all the way to 120 or all the way down to 0. There is no in between. I tested the coils.The pins are all 30 ohms. 10 Min after startup the car is producing white smoke, burning oil for sure. I dont have a compression tester. My dad and I have little time to work on the car.the turbo has no shaft play. At this point I cant be driving on the street with this much oil burning.
Replacing valve stem seals or piston rings would take another year with our tempo.
Dont get me wrong I love Dsm, so dont tell me to buy a yaris. I just wish some one with alot of knowledge would just come here and do everything for me.

 

[phantom_19]

Today I was doing some trouble shooting to find out why the car stalls when given gas from idle position. I was given barometric and air circuit malfunction yesterday. It didnt give me the codes since I had it 2 months ago. But it still stalled. I disconnected the MAf sensor and when given gas, the car responds right away like it should. The Maf sensor is set in ECM link correctly 2G dsm 609.
Any input on this?

 

[airmail96]

Sounds like a bad MAF, I would just try a different one and see if you get the same results. If you still have the 1g MAF I would throw it in just to check things.

 

[phantom_19]

How can it become bad? It was fine before. I went throught 2G mafs by now. The 1G is hacked up. With the 2G maf it A/F's at 14's high ( analog). When I unplug the MAf it goes to 10. Where can I get a maf that is working without ppl trying to scam me. I live too far away to send anything back.

 

[steve]

I also see that its getting negative read outs. What could this mean for the performance of the car. What is the ECU going to compensate for when getting the IAT and ECT negative readouts?

It means until you find and fix the root cause your not going to be doing anymore tuning.

These are huge swings in the engine coolant and intake air temps and are going to cause the ECU to make corrections that are incorrect based on those readings. The ECT changes are enough to make the car difficult or impossible to start if they happen during cranking. Once the ECU throws a fault code for these it will ignore the inputs and use default values that I'm not surprised work better than the bad data. IIRC the airflow, TPS and Idle Switch are also jumping around.

 

[phantom_19]

It means until you find and fix the root cause your not going to be doing anymore tuning.

These are huge swings in the engine coolant and intake air temps and are going to cause the ECU to make corrections that are incorrect based on those readings. The ECT changes are enough to make the car difficult or impossible to start if they happen during cranking. Once the ECU throws a fault code for these it will ignore the inputs and use default values that I'm not surprised work better than the bad data. IIRC the airflow, TPS and Idle Switch are also jumping around.

The TPS and Idle switch are because I am throttling it until 2step. This car has never driven on the road since we had it. I am going to buy a ECT sensor at napa tomorrow and see if the value changes. I am also going to order a used maf. The car never had problems starting. I think I saw the CEL going on when revving above 3K. This might be the ECT you are talking about.

 

[phantom_19]

Hi

I did some logging today. I bought a new ECT sensor and installed it. ECM still shows me that the values are freaking out once I hit some throttle. It goes to 34 degrees and the Closed Loop T/F shows 0. So it goes into open loop because it thinks it needs to warm up? I also noticed that the value of the ECT never goes above 108 degrees when idling. The car stalls when I first hit the throttle with the 2G maf plugged in, and is fine when I unplug it. No DTC's from ECM.

What causes the ECT to freakout even though its new? I didnt use teflon tape and I screwed it pretty hard(should have a nice ground).There is a green w/black wire and a yellow w/ green wire. Does it matter to which they connect to? I have a spade connector on each wire to connect to the ECT.

A few Logs. Looks like the MAFraw doesnt follow up to the other values

 

[phantom_19]

I hooked up a 1G maf without connecting it to the intake pipe, car revs flawlessly now. Did the same with the 2 2G mafs and it stumbled on the first revs.

I still have problems with the ECT readings though

I am trying to find the color of wires that need to goto the ECT. My dad already soldered the wires but I just want to make sure its the correct ones. Found some info here but cant see the color of the wires.
ECT Connector
Basically my car is a 93 with a 90 galant engine

 

[phantom_19]

After a long time, I decided to buy another ECU from a member on here. Everything works flawlessly now.
I made a log with 2 small revs. My idle tuning is just about done now. I just need a timing light now to set the timing. It shows about 10 degrees in link.

Small log is included.