ECMlink My first Speed Density tune help me make it better

[genegoesfast]

WOT Log added!
I just swapped my car over to SD. I followed this http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/395564-how-tune-1g-v3-sd-ecmlink-no-maf.html to a T. The only thing I didnt get dead was my airflow per rev (which is a tad high still) due to the fact that my idle is a bit higher than stock.

The first cruise log (Clipped to fit attachment limit)

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The second cruise log (Clipped to fit attachment limit and settings applied from SD VE Adjust combinedft from the first log)

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The idle log after I applied VE Adjust from the second Cruise

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WOT Log, let off on upon knock. AFRest and Wideband not the same. Wideband gauge and log of the gauge within .3

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Thanks for looking/helping!

 

[jcarmichael]

I don't have speed density plan to get it in a cpl of weeks. since you have ecm link I would recommend going on there and doing a search, I did it a cpl months ago because I was planning on getting it. ended up having to get an alt. but its a pretty complicated change to make. they had alot of good info on the forums on ecmtuning.com

 

[genegoesfast]

I'm aware of ecmtunings website. I just value many of the wisemens opinions on this site. The changeover was actually pretty simple.

 

[genegoesfast]

Also I was wondering how you rectify the rich condition after the bov opens. It's of course not recirculated.

Sent from my phone fool.

 

[jcarmichael]

with sd it shouldn't run rich I wouldn't think because it calculates the amount of air coming in at a later point instead of in 1gs right where the air first comes in. if that makes sense, same reason ppl run the gmmaf after the bov so if they run uncirculated it will read the amount of air coming in after that so its like it never disappeared.

 

[genegoesfast]

Yeah. I know that's what it's supposed to do. For some reason it isn't happening.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Also I was wondering how you rectify the rich condition after the bov opens. It's of course not recirculated.

SD doesn't care if your not recirculating.

 

[genegoesfast]

Well my wideband still shows a rich condition after shifts. I'm sure you'll see it in the logs.

 

[jcarmichael]

what size fuel pump are you running, I was reading the other day if your running a 255 with no afpr it can blow the stock fpr and cause a riching effect. thats a shot in the dark but might be a bit of help.

 

[genegoesfast]

I'm running a 255 with an afpr.

Sent from my phone fool.

 

[Guilty1s]

im gonna be in nashville next weekend, you should give me a hand with my swap over.

 

[jcarmichael]

im gonna be in nashville next weekend, you should give me a hand with my swap over.

you should send him a pm unless your helping with his question. not trying to sound rude. any how could just be the tune then I wish I could be more helpful in a cpl weeks I will have it and hopefully have more insight on it.

 

[genegoesfast]

I don't mind helping doing the swap. I'd just like some advice on my logs. The car has been gone through very thoroughly mechanically.

Sent from my phone fool.

 

[Guilty1s]

I’m going to take a shot and this and tell you what i would do. Now, I’m only telling you this, cause it is as far as i understand from all the reading i have done, but I’m not sure. It more of a question.

Looking at the idle log, and tracking the SD VE table you can see where it is pulling readings from. Seems like its normally around here, which is giving you a .28-.29 g/rev.

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For whatever reason, when it pulls from here, you are getting a .25 g/rev.

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Seems like if you up the 1000rpms column around the 5.5-11.0 y-axis (don’t know what that is) you would be closer calibrating your VE.

I'm not sure if that is what you’re supposed to do, but that is what i would do and i want to know if that is correct or not.

 

[bsbllfit7]

Get your idle dialed in around .25 then go out and drive for a half hour or so, after you are done right click on your graph of the log and do the SD adjust ( i cant remember the exact one to click so someone chime in) That will get all of your cruising parameters set. Once that is set your idle will be dialed in as well as cruising so you can go on to WOT pulls. With those you want to look at your AFRestimate as well as Wideband and try and get them to match up as closely as possible by adding to the VE table (making it more rich) or taking away value from the VE table (leaning it out). Once you get those numbers to match in boost and your AFR's look good you should be all set! IF knock occurs, either add fuel, remove timing, or turn down the boost. Boost makes more power than timing if i remember correctly so i would try by knocking the timing back a few. Get your afr's around 10.8-11.5 if possible. The leaner the better on that scale without getting knock.

 

[genegoesfast]

Maybe Ive made myself out to be a complete tuning retard but I've done all those things already. If you read my original post I followed the guide to a t which has you do cruise logs after getting your idle set up. I drove around for 20 minutes or so applied SD ve adjust combined ft, smoothed it, did it again, smoothed it again. All after setting my idle, which I explained is high in the airflow/rev area because of my higher idle speed. I know you guys are trying to help, but I'm getting annoyed that I'm being told to do the things that I've clearly illustrated I've completed.

Sent from my phone fool.

 

[genegoesfast]

I've also not gotten to wot tuning yet.

Guilty1s thanks for the time you spent looking at those logs. It's much appreciated. I think I regards to the idle portion, I would have to lower the ve in the mentioned area to achieve the .25 as opposed to raise it. I just felt like I hit an area of diminishing returns where forcing the car to return that reading would be worse than leaving it where it was.

Sent from my phone fool.

Updated.