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Sinister 9 second street build - 97 Talon AWD

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black97spyder

Proven Member
704
24
Oct 13, 2012
independence, Kansas
This whole build started because i thought i blew the engine in my spyder gst as it sounded like it had a knocking rod. So i hit Craigslist for an engine.I found an ad in liberal, ks for a fully built 7 bolt longblock ready to go with 5,000 miles on it. It had bc 288's, mahle 8.5:1 pistons, SCAT H beam rods, a stage 2 ported and polished head and nitrided stock crank for $1,500. His best pass on the engine was 12.3 @ 144 mph with a fwd and a PTE 6266. So I made a 6 hour one way journey to Liberal from my home town independence, ks. It was a long boring ride with lots of flat open fields LOL. So i bought the engine and brought it home to hopefully install in my spyder, well turns out that when I separated the engine and trans from my spyder it was a broken flexplate making a knocking rod sound so my engine wasn't bad after all.

This put me on the quest for AWD so I wouldnt absolutely decimate the tires on my fwd!!! Once again I hit up Craigslist for a couple weeks, this time looking for a GSX. I didnt end up finding a gsx, instead i found a 100% bone stock tsi AWD for 1,200 OBO in Kansas city. I contacted the owner and talked him Down to $900 cash. This made me go on another road trip with one of my friends and his car trailer to pick up my new prospect. On the way home we missed our turn, I have no clue how, so we found our way back on track and made it home an hour behind schedule.

The fully built engine I bought sat outside for almost a year in 2 plastic bags to keep moisture out. And the car sat for about 3 months before i got an urge to start on it in the middle of my spyder GST project. So i got all the little things done right before I installed the engine to help me out a little bit. I called a couple of my buddies and had them help me push my car into place by my cherry picker and engine that had been sitting. I then started the task of dropping the engine into the car with the trans already in. I got everything in and bolted down. The next thing to come was connecting the flexplate and torque converter. I got the bolts started and my Kiggly flexplate and engine kept binding up somewhere so i pulled the engine back out about a week later to find the binding Problem.... Well turns out the binding was the 4 converter bolts getting caught up in the starter spacer plate so i cut out What wasn't needed and went on with getting ready to re install the engine and i realized I had no pilot bushing in the back of the crank for my automatic.

That small setback put me on hold for several more weeks until I sold a spair car body I had to help pay for the rest of the parts I need to finish. Well i got to thinking this would be the perfect time to put a stall converter in so i can take full advantage of AWD and taking off at the line like a rocket!! I then contacted IPT about a high stall converter and What i would need for my setup. IPT turned out to be a little too expensive for the amount of money I had to work with so i looked harder and came across the wide selection of converters from Sinister Speed. I talked to Mike at sinister speed about what i wanted and ended up getting a DSM sponsorship for his sinister Speed torque converter!!!! To fulfill my part, I have to run his product name on my rear quarter windows. For the first 3 events I place in, he will send me kickback for updating my online profile of my placing in the events to get the price I paid for the converter down to sponsorship pricing.

I then installed my pilot bushing from STM and proceeded to install the engine by myself this time. I then drilled a few holes in my firewall for my gauges and boost controller that is going to be inside the cabin. I got everything In and bolted up and afterwards had a few problems. My ebay o2 housing had the o2 bung facing at the wrong angle so it hit my w/p pipe and I couldn't get my exhaust mani & turbo on. My next hurdle was the oil drain line and oil feed line for my TD05H, which both had problems. The drain line I got sent was like 14" and I only needed around 5 & 1/2" so I fabricated hydraulic fitting onto my drain line after cutting It to size 3 different times. As for my feed line, I got sent a m12 banjo bolt and fitting and it was one size too big so i ordered a m10 banjo bolt and fitting to fix that problem.

So now I am down to only having to connect my fuel line from the filter to the rail and putting fluids in and changing the tranny fluid and filter.... Until I noticed that I could see a small gap in the fitting that goes into the fuel rail and bolts to it, so I started to tighten the bolts carefully as I knew I did not want to break them off In the rail. And What did I do? I tightened the top bolt which helped close the gap a little bit and so i went to tighten up the bottom bolt and didn't even get 1/4 turn more before the head of the bolt snapped off and the rest of the bolt stayed in the rail!!!

I am at a standstill now until I get the rest of the bolt out of the fuel rail, and after that I can start my new engine for the first time in person!!!
 
I vote for pictures too, I just felt like I just read a book, and I hate books. us DSM guys are more simple like that because we are easily entertained with vivid colors and such.
 
Thanks kc!!! I've spent lots of hours on small detail work to give everything the "clean" look I'm looking for :D :hellyeah: Forgot to even mention the full emissions delete and changed the brake master cylinder while the engine was out for the simple fact it was a lot easier than what it would be with the engine in the car!!

After I get it running I want to start my COP setup. I have the 300m coils I just need to find a spair coil pack to rob the connector off of and some wiring pigtails from Toyota and I will have that all ready to go to make everything else look even cleaner!

It won't be long and we ll have yours going as well and then we can take em to the strip and see how we match up!!!
 
Hopefully my build wont last me much longer than mid summer. But i still have alot to do and alot of parts to get. Not to mention i need a new set of tires.
 
Thanks guys!!! Have a few updates as well!

BROKEN FUEL RAIL BOLT REMOVAL AND GETTING READY FOR SHIFT KIT INSTALL


So i messed up a few paint jobs installing things, like my o2 housing and having to dent my w/p pipe and also scratched up the w/p pipe fabricating my p/s bracket so I wouldn't have to remove the pipe because it was already installed. I worked hard on painting parts just for me to mess It up installing them LOL....

o2 housing clearance probelms! - DSM Forums

The first big step I had was last night when i got my broken fuel rail bolt of of the stock fuel rail!!! Next step is to install a shift kit when I change the tranny fluid and filter this week and then add trans fluid, oil, filter antifreeze and i get to hear her run for the first time.
 

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Looks like a nice build but I would have stayed away from sinister on a converter.
 
Why would you have stayed away from the sinister converter? Haven't heard anything but good things about them

You must be looking in the wrong place... everyone I have talked to including myself has nothing good to say about him. There has been a lot of high hp guys that has tried out sinister and pretty much everyone of them has went to something else.
 
What sinister converter are you running?

None. I did try out two of his converters and the third one didn't even fit in the trans... I would go back to a restall before putting a sinister converter in my car.
 
Well I guess we will find out when I start my car before this weekend, and I get to test It out. Can't beat a sponsorship man! :thumb: :hellyeah:

Thanks again Mike!!

Installing an IPT shift kit


So i was not comfortable with myself enough to install my IPT shift kit so I talked my dad into doing It for me as a graduation present for college (he has done numerous successful Chevy shift kits so i felt a lot better if i watched him do it).... Turns out its more mind over matter, it was not that hard at all and i could definitely do it on my own next time!!! :thumb:

Took about 2 & 1/2 - 3 hours from start to finish after the valvebody was Already out of the car and while stopping to take time to watch IPT's videos on the shift kit Install. I put all of the stiffest springs In the kit that u could so i could get maximum performance out of my tranny before I get a shift box.

Please bear with me as some of the pictures were taken under the car and at a weird angle.
 

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installing valve body back into car

Well guys after doing the shift kit correctly with my father, it was time I bolt up the valvebody in the trans. Got under the car and installed the valvebody in the car successfully (without breaking the manual valve) ans got everything torqued down to 80 inch pounds....

Next was time to install my oriellys transmission kit and gasket. Well I got everything lined up and started the 4 trans filter bolts in their respective holes, but it didn't seem right as the bolts would not snug up the filter like it was supposed to be, so I took the filter back off and sprayed brake clean In the holes to clean any crap out that was in there and then I ran each bolt in almost all the way to make sure the threads were clean. The bolts were abnormally hard to go in so i thought there was still crap on the threads and decided that it would be fine as the filter did not have to be super tight, jus snugged down good... So i started to install the filter again, and ran each of the bolts in as far as I could by hand (which wasn't very far) then used a ratchet to try to snug the filter up to the tranny and be good to go.....

Well that was far from the case, I was snugging the bolts down and got to where the really didn't want to turn very well.... Well dumb me decided that there was just crap on the threads and went to torquing down the bolts hard so the filter would be touching the valvebody like it should.... Bad ide I broke one of the corners off the valvebody where the filter mounts :banghead: :cry: :beatentodeath:

Of all the hard parts I could have messed up it was the easiest part left thaf I had to go and screw up. Thankfully I got to looking at the OEM filter (which had 167,000 original miles on it) and the oriellys filter. WELL the pos oriellys filter was the same in every aspect but the depth of the holes where the bolts went through. The oem filter left like 3/8" of threads to go In the valvebody, and the oriellys filter had over 1/2" more of the bolt sticking up to go inthe valvebody and the damn shank was even sticking through the backside so no matter what the filter would have never gotten snug on the valvebody..... So i filed a labor claim this afternoon with powertorque (a/t filter company) and am going to try to get them to pay for my broken valvebody (due to their faulty design) and recompensate me for the cost of a new valvebody and shift kit, should hear back from them tomorrow and see what they say!!!

Lol out of desperation I jb welded my broken part back to the valvebody because I knew it doesn't see much pressure but Im buying a used one to make for sure its right, so it was pretty pointless to jb weld It back LOL
 

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I would order another oem filter to stick back in it. Did the aftermarket filter come with different bolts?
 
No It didn't come with different bolts, and box hadn't been opened.... I found a used valvebody in the meantime to get my car going. Im going to use parts off of and put my shift kit into the lower valvebody and reinstall it and then put it back in the car... It sucks I absolutely hate having to do things twice
 
Ain't that the truth? I was so excited about getting my car to run that I over looked one of the smallest things and everything went horribly wrong. Just my luck LOL.... Hopefully my luck gets a little better, my labor claim with powertorque is seeming good so far, ordered a different brand trans filter for my car (wix) and it came with a warning sheet and new shorter bolts. The powertorque filter did not so i think that is looking In my favor!
 
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