I put Kurt's 18's on my car. He didn't want them to sit all winter and rust so he wanted me to put them on mine. I had to buy new rear tires for them. $238. They are nice, though they aren't a fancy brand. They are Nexen's.
I went and visited my girl friend. While I was in the area, I bought a 2.5-3" exhaust off of my friend. He gave me some misc stuff like an aluminum radiator (leaks, needs fixed), short shifter, leather shift knob, etc.
On the way back home, I was going up a huge mountain. I noticed the oil pressure was a little low considering I was going up a mountain at 70MPH. It wasn't enough for me to feel too concerned and pull over. Then I noticed the water temp rising. I decided that if it got to 230*, I would pull over. It got to 230* so I began pulling over. Then there was all kinds of noise and the car died.
Long story short, the oil return pipe broke thus all the oil leaked out. Then the engine went ka-boom. My battery died since I had the lights on too long while waiting for the car to cool, so I pop started it. It fired up, then after about 10 seconds it died when I pushed the clutch in. So I went to pop start it again. The motor must have locked up during this. Needless to say, that was a pretty violent impact on the transmission. I snapped the bell housing in half.
So, I then decided to use my friends 6 bolt and 2G trans.
Crack on the bell housing.
So i got the motor pulled out. The crack in the transmission goes from just below the starter to just below the slave cylinder.
I pulled the pan off and to my surprise, it wasn't that bad. Only small chunks of metal in the pan. And i mean small. Number 4 rod has play in it. But, not very much. I think i might be able to get away with just changing out the rod bearings. I know I should pull the crank and see if the journals are within spec, but i really think it is fine. I am going to pull the rod caps and see what the bearings look like.
The return pipe did indeed have a crack in it just above the part that flexes. I have
two options. Swap my buddies 6 bolt in that has high miles or change my rod bearings in the 7 bolt and see what happens. If i use the 6 bolt, i have to buy a timing belt and auto tensioner. The oil pressure sending unit is snapped off of the 6 bolt so that is something i would have to fix. I also broke my slave cylinder too. Ill have to buy a new one regardless of which engine i use.
My 14b had in and out shaft play I noticed too. The engine was not as bad as i was expecting though. I thought id pull the pan and the crank would be in half. There was oil in the pan. Probably 2 quarts. But that could just be the 2 quarts i added after i pulled over.
I got the 6 bolt dropped in. First, I had to swap some things from my 7 bolt to the 6 bolt. Clutch, all motor mounts, had to mod the driver side motor mount bracket, etc. I put my aftermarket return line on as well.
The transmission is sitting flush with the block. I had to deal with a bolt hole that was stripped. Or so I thought. I opted to go with a long bolt and put a nut on the other side. It actually didn't feel stripped so it is possible that it was the original bolt itself that was stripped when we had this motor and trans in Kurt's 1G.
I dropped the motor down in my engine bay. Lined everything up and started bolting all the mounts in place. Once I got all the mounts done, I began putting everything else on. IC piping, intake, ran the wiring harness, connected the fuel rail, etc. I only did what was necessary for the engine to run. I didn't want to put the engine 100% only to find out I have to pull it back out because I have a big oil leak somewhere. I left the alternator, cooling system, shift cables, etc. un-done.
I was finally ready to start the car. It cranked and cranked but would not fire. I then tested for spark. No spark. Then, no fuel. Shortly after, I realized the CEL wasn't coming on when putting the key to the ON position. It is supposed to illuminate and then go off after about 5 seconds. This is how the ECU lets you know that it is communicating. If the CEL does not illuminate, your ECU is probably bad.
Another way the ECU lets you know it is communicating properly is the factory boost gauge will rise to halfway when the key is turned to the ON position. My factory boost gauge wasn't moving either. So, I assumed that my ECU was bad. Then a friend told me to check a plug near the trans. He said it is a very large plug and connects the two wiring harnesses together. Sure enough, this was unplugged thus not allowing the ECU to receive any power.
Shortly after the 6 bolt swap, I had an oil leak. Tore into the car and found that the bolt hole for the auto tensioner was leaking. Fixed that. Then the auto tensioner broke prior to installing it on the car.
Got another from advance auto and the car ran fine for a few days. Then I noticed my timing belt was loose. I literally pulled the timing belt off of the engine via the cam gears without any tools or removing anything. Got another tensioner from advance. That broke.
Needless to say, I bought an OEM tensioner from Extreme PSI. It has been great since.
Last week about an 1/8 mile from my work, I downshifted and couldn't get the car in gear. When I let the clutch out, the clutch stuck at the halfway point. I eventually got it in gear with some effort and pulled into my work. Once I was stopped, I tried getting it into first gear and no luck.
So after work I called Advance Auto. They had a slave cylinder but not a master. So I walked my ass all the way to the parts store, walked back, put the new slave in, bled the system, no luck.
The next day, I swapped the master. Clutch pedal felt great. No air coming out of the bleeder when I bled it. Still wouldn't go in gear. If I put the car in gear, push the clutch in, then start the car, then car moved as if I didn't even have the clutch pushed in.
So I looked up inside the fork hole. Noticed that my fork is sitting more towards the passenger side of the car instead of the driver side like it should be. Then I seen that the fork was making contact with the bell housing.
I adjusted the master cylinder rod in, out, and everywhere in between with no change. So I pulled the trans, used a different fork, pivot ball, shimmed the pivot ball, and got a new throw out bearing. Put it all back together.
Now the fork is sitting towards the driver side of the hole and the slave cylinder isn't pushing the fork far enough to the passenger side. So tomorrow I am calling STM and purchasing an OEM master cylinder and an extended slave cylinder rod. Hopefully these take care of my problem. Such a nightmare.