Faline- 95 Eagle Talon TSi

Posted by fourgsixthree33, Mar 7, 2013
DSM Build Journals - Start a Journal to document your DSM build and document race events, dyno days, etc for the car.

  1. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    Dunmore, Pennsylvania
    Faline

    Up-to-date Picture
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    Info

    Car: 1995 Eagle Talon TSi
    Drive Type: Front Wheel Drive
    Transmission: 5 Speed
    Engine: 6 Bolt 4G63T
    Exterior Color: White/Black (Panda)
    Interior Color: Black/Grey w/ Grey Leather

    Present Day Mod List
    Bolt-on: K&N Air Filter, 14B Turbo, Turbosmart MBC, FMIC w/ Piping, 1g BOV, NGK Plugs and Wires

    Engine: 6 Bolt Swap ,1G Top End (Cylinder Head, Intake Manifold, Throttle Body), 1G Radiator

    Engine Management:
    Aftermarket Boost/Oil PSI/Water Temp Gauges, 10K Pot Mod

    Drivetrain Mods: 4G64 Spyder Transmission

    Suspension Mods: 1G Big Brake Swap, 18" Wheels, Lowering Springs

    Best Timeslip
    1/8 Mile E.T.: 9.3950
    1/8 Mile MPH: 79.10
    60' Time: 2.2821


    Plans & Goals
    -Reliably run 12's while Daily Driving
    -16G or larger, 550cc. Injectors, Evo 8 ECU tuning with EVOscan, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Fidanza clutch and flywheel.
    -Need to build a short block so I can give my friend his 6 bolt back. I would like to get another 6 bolt to build. I am thinking about getting my 7 bolt checked out and using that with Evo 8/9 Pistons.​


    Hello everyone. Have yet to do a project thread since I bought my car just a week or so shy of her and my 1 year anniversary (March 17th, 2012). I named her Faline. Faline, is Bambi's girl friend on the Disney movie. My Talon had a bucking problem when I bought it. So, I named it after a deer. It was either naming after Bambi's girl friend or naming it "Skittles" being that it was multicolored.

    The bucking problem was supposedly from the Walbro 255lph fuel pump and no AFPR, so the PO said. The PO also said it had a 4G64 transmission, 550cc. injectors, completely rebuilt bottom end, rebuilt T25, 2.5" exhaust, and some other crap.

    Once I got the car home, I found he lied about everything except the 4G64 trans. I called him out on it and he said his friend did all the work to it while he gave the money for all the aftermarket stuff to his friend. His friend then bought everything and installed it.

    4 days after I bought it, the rebuilt bottom end with less than 100 miles on it, spun a rod bearing. I pulled the motor and opened it up. There was no way this thing was rebuilt. No worry, I dropped in my rebuilt 7 bolt that I rebuilt myself. I KNEW that was rebuilt.

    At this time, I also went ahead and wired up the 1G CAS. The speedometer didn't work. I put in a new speedometer. Fixed. I removed emissions as well.

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    After emissions delete.
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    After the engine swap.
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    3/28/12

    Swapped in the 1g radiator. Very easy to do. All you need to do is cut off the pegs on the bottom of the 1g radiator. It dropped right in. You need to use the 1g upper radiator hose with the 2g lower hose. You do have to cut the 1g upper radiator hose to make it a little shorter.

    There is quite a bit more room in the exhaust manifold/turbo area though since the outlet for the upper hose on a 1g radiator is on the passenger side where as the 2g outlet is smack dab in the middle of the radiator.
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013
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  2. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    4/5/12

    I got tired of dealing with the random multiple misfire when cruising that comes along with the 2G CAS in a 2G. So I did the 10K Pot mod.

    More pics.
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    1G Big Brake Swap.
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    4/12/12


    Installed an unknown brand of lowering springs.

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    4-16-12

    Night-shaded my tail lights. First attempt sucked. The nozzle for the spray can was shot so it spit all over. Used brake cleaner to remove all the night shade and started again with a new nozzle.

    The second time around was much better, but not what I was hoping for. It was an old can of night shade.

    Next, my girl friend (now ex-girlf friend) was in the mood for some body work. So she decided to paint my hood. She sanded the hood down to remove the clear coat. Eventually when she was all prepped, she began paint. We just rattle canned it because we are planning on painting the whole car eventually.

    For rattle can paint, it turned out pretty good.

    I ordered a new BISS screw and BOV gasket from Extreme PSI.

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    #2
  3. Pipnorcali

    Pipnorcali Proven Member

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    Grass valley, California
    What color are you thinking for the paint
    #3
  4. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    Dunmore, Pennsylvania
    6/1/12

    I wanted to put my 2GB wheels from my 1G on my 2G. So, I photoshopped a picture up to see what it would look like. I liked it, so I painted the wheels and then put them on.

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    And here is a normal pic.

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    And with the wheels installed.
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    6-4-12

    I had some problems with my alternator tensioner and a coolant line from my OFH. Got these fixed.

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    6-18-12


    I lowered the battery onto the sub frame, removed the cruise control actuator (other CC gadgets are still there), removed the sound deadening on the firewall, relocated some things on the firewall, and removed the horn for the factory alarm that was on the firewall.

    Here are some pics.

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    6/24/12


    Painted the entire engine bay and also painted the VC. Pics below.

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    Here is a before and after pic. The before pic was from the day I bought the car back in March.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014
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  5. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    Dunmore, Pennsylvania
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    7/28/12

    Installed a 14B.

    Took the Talon to the drag strip (1/8 mile track). I took it a week or two prior to this with the blown t25, in which I ran 10.2 and with a broken knock sensor plug.

    My best time this trip out was a 9.3.

    I have a bunch of pics and vids. The video I am going to show is the race against the 2012 Subaru WRX. He came up to me and asked if I wanted to race so I said sure. He got me off the line (AWD vs. FWD) but I pulled on him down the rest of the track. I hit something that felt like fuel cut, (later found an intercooler couple had a giant hole in it) twice, and he beat me by 0.0410 seconds. That is less than a tenth, needless to say, it was a photo finish. His time was a 9.3 and I had a 9.7. But my MPH was 5MPH faster than his.

    He said he paid $30,000 for the WRX. My $2,000 TSi ended up beating his time later in the evening.

    I ended up making 17 passes last night. oops LOL.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2O1nnCc51w

    Video is also on the Eat Sleep DSM facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/groups/262815843744651/502928476400052/?notif_t=group_activity

    Timeslip from my best pass.
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    My beautiful daughter.
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    Yep, left her car seat in the back when I was racing :p
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    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013
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  6. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    Dunmore, Pennsylvania
    8/6/12

    On my way home from work, my driver side motor mount broke. Got the car home, pulled off the timing belt and mount bracket, bought a new bracket, and put it all back together.

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  7. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    8/8/12

    Rear balance shaft bearing spun. This caused the teeth on the timing belt to shred. I pulled the motor and did a BSEK. Also decided it would be a good time to put my rebuilt 1G head on. So, now I had a 1G top end.

    I actually hitched a ride to Advance Auto, picked up a new timing belt, then put the new timing belt on on the side of the highway to get it home.

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    The 1G head
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    Gasket Set
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    Timing belt that came off
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    And a couple shots up of my pistons and rods.

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    And up top after head removal.

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    #7
  8. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    Dunmore, Pennsylvania
    8/14/12

    Hauled the Talon to my dads garage. Then I went and picked up my buddies 1G TSi and hauled it to my house. We had to fix his transmission also.

    Garage.
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    Engine pulled.
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    Engine.
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    Took purple power to the bay.
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    Found my oil return pipe was broke which probably led to the bearing failure.

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    Front case.
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    OFH.
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    1G head.
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    Head installed.
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    #8
  9. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    Dunmore, Pennsylvania
    8/18/12

    Made a FIAV block-off plate, put the head on, assembled everything, and put the motor in the car. Only to find that my front case was cracked. Videos below from the first start ups in which not all of the vacuum hoses and such were connected.

    Making of the FIAV block-off plate.
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    FIAV.
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    Engine.
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    1G Intake.
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    Painted the FIAV purple.
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    Couple more shots of the engine.
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    BSE kit and front case gaskets.
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    Videos.
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    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UBKZCl-wbEA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    Front case removed. Found the crack. Got a new front case, did the BSE to it, new gasket, reinstalled everything.

    Finally, the car was done. As soon as we took it for a drive, we ended up loading all the tools and spare parts in it so I could take my friend 2 hours south to see his PO. After being awake for over 24 hours. That was a very nerve racking trip. But we made it.

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    Gave her a bath.

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    Our engine builder for our dirt modifieds wanted Kurt and I to pit for him. Since my car was now driveable, we went and pitted for him. He is 74 years old. He did his heat race and could not handle the physical part of racing anymore.

    It just so happens that I brought my racing suit and helmet :) . He asked me to race for him and I managed a 4th place finish.

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    #9
  10. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    Dunmore, Pennsylvania
    9/19/12

    At this time, I recently had some axle problems, wiring problems, etc. But, I still overcame it all. Put in a a pillar gauge pod that was given to me along with some aftermarket gauges.

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    9/27/12

    Not sure about you guys, but by this point, I got tired of looking at the multicolored BS. So I rattle canned it. In just a couple days worth of sanding, priming, taping, and painting, I had a Panda.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014
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  11. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    Dunmore, Pennsylvania
    12-10-12

    I put Kurt's 18's on my car. He didn't want them to sit all winter and rust so he wanted me to put them on mine. I had to buy new rear tires for them. $238. They are nice, though they aren't a fancy brand. They are Nexen's.

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    I went and visited my girl friend. While I was in the area, I bought a 2.5-3" exhaust off of my friend. He gave me some misc stuff like an aluminum radiator (leaks, needs fixed), short shifter, leather shift knob, etc.

    On the way back home, I was going up a huge mountain. I noticed the oil pressure was a little low considering I was going up a mountain at 70MPH. It wasn't enough for me to feel too concerned and pull over. Then I noticed the water temp rising. I decided that if it got to 230*, I would pull over. It got to 230* so I began pulling over. Then there was all kinds of noise and the car died.

    Long story short, the oil return pipe broke thus all the oil leaked out. Then the engine went ka-boom. My battery died since I had the lights on too long while waiting for the car to cool, so I pop started it. It fired up, then after about 10 seconds it died when I pushed the clutch in. So I went to pop start it again. The motor must have locked up during this. Needless to say, that was a pretty violent impact on the transmission. I snapped the bell housing in half.

    So, I then decided to use my friends 6 bolt and 2G trans.

    Crack on the bell housing.
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    12/26/12

    So i got the motor pulled out. The crack in the transmission goes from just below the starter to just below the slave cylinder.

    I pulled the pan off and to my surprise, it wasn't that bad. Only small chunks of metal in the pan. And i mean small. Number 4 rod has play in it. But, not very much. I think i might be able to get away with just changing out the rod bearings. I know I should pull the crank and see if the journals are within spec, but i really think it is fine. I am going to pull the rod caps and see what the bearings look like.

    The return pipe did indeed have a crack in it just above the part that flexes. I have
    two options. Swap my buddies 6 bolt in that has high miles or change my rod bearings in the 7 bolt and see what happens. If i use the 6 bolt, i have to buy a timing belt and auto tensioner. The oil pressure sending unit is snapped off of the 6 bolt so that is something i would have to fix. I also broke my slave cylinder too. Ill have to buy a new one regardless of which engine i use.

    My 14b had in and out shaft play I noticed too. The engine was not as bad as i was expecting though. I thought id pull the pan and the crank would be in half. There was oil in the pan. Probably 2 quarts. But that could just be the 2 quarts i added after i pulled over.

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    12/29/12

    I got the 6 bolt dropped in. First, I had to swap some things from my 7 bolt to the 6 bolt. Clutch, all motor mounts, had to mod the driver side motor mount bracket, etc. I put my aftermarket return line on as well.

    The transmission is sitting flush with the block. I had to deal with a bolt hole that was stripped. Or so I thought. I opted to go with a long bolt and put a nut on the other side. It actually didn't feel stripped so it is possible that it was the original bolt itself that was stripped when we had this motor and trans in Kurt's 1G.

    I dropped the motor down in my engine bay. Lined everything up and started bolting all the mounts in place. Once I got all the mounts done, I began putting everything else on. IC piping, intake, ran the wiring harness, connected the fuel rail, etc. I only did what was necessary for the engine to run. I didn't want to put the engine 100% only to find out I have to pull it back out because I have a big oil leak somewhere. I left the alternator, cooling system, shift cables, etc. un-done.

    I was finally ready to start the car. It cranked and cranked but would not fire. I then tested for spark. No spark. Then, no fuel. Shortly after, I realized the CEL wasn't coming on when putting the key to the ON position. It is supposed to illuminate and then go off after about 5 seconds. This is how the ECU lets you know that it is communicating. If the CEL does not illuminate, your ECU is probably bad.

    Another way the ECU lets you know it is communicating properly is the factory boost gauge will rise to halfway when the key is turned to the ON position. My factory boost gauge wasn't moving either. So, I assumed that my ECU was bad. Then a friend told me to check a plug near the trans. He said it is a very large plug and connects the two wiring harnesses together. Sure enough, this was unplugged thus not allowing the ECU to receive any power.

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    Shortly after the 6 bolt swap, I had an oil leak. Tore into the car and found that the bolt hole for the auto tensioner was leaking. Fixed that. Then the auto tensioner broke prior to installing it on the car.

    Got another from advance auto and the car ran fine for a few days. Then I noticed my timing belt was loose. I literally pulled the timing belt off of the engine via the cam gears without any tools or removing anything. Got another tensioner from advance. That broke.

    Needless to say, I bought an OEM tensioner from Extreme PSI. It has been great since.

    3/1/13


    Last week about an 1/8 mile from my work, I downshifted and couldn't get the car in gear. When I let the clutch out, the clutch stuck at the halfway point. I eventually got it in gear with some effort and pulled into my work. Once I was stopped, I tried getting it into first gear and no luck.

    So after work I called Advance Auto. They had a slave cylinder but not a master. So I walked my ass all the way to the parts store, walked back, put the new slave in, bled the system, no luck.

    The next day, I swapped the master. Clutch pedal felt great. No air coming out of the bleeder when I bled it. Still wouldn't go in gear. If I put the car in gear, push the clutch in, then start the car, then car moved as if I didn't even have the clutch pushed in.

    So I looked up inside the fork hole. Noticed that my fork is sitting more towards the passenger side of the car instead of the driver side like it should be. Then I seen that the fork was making contact with the bell housing.

    I adjusted the master cylinder rod in, out, and everywhere in between with no change. So I pulled the trans, used a different fork, pivot ball, shimmed the pivot ball, and got a new throw out bearing. Put it all back together.

    Now the fork is sitting towards the driver side of the hole and the slave cylinder isn't pushing the fork far enough to the passenger side. So tomorrow I am calling STM and purchasing an OEM master cylinder and an extended slave cylinder rod. Hopefully these take care of my problem. Such a nightmare.

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  12. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    Dunmore, Pennsylvania
    Tuesday, we had some nice weather. I am waiting on an OEM clutch master cylinder to come in the mail so I decided to remove all the seats from the car and vacuum it out. My battery has been dead recently. I thought it was just from having the hatch and doors open all day when working on the car.

    So I put the drivers seat in and went to charge the battery so I could operate the power seat to move it back and forth so I could bolt the seat in. I put the battery charger on the battery and then a few seconds later there was a loud and fast clicking coming from under the radio.

    If I turned the key ON, the clicking stopped. If I unplugged the ECU, the clicking stopped. If I charge the battery with the terminals off, there is no clicking.

    Then I noticed that with my key OFF, the oil dummy light would be on. If I turn the key ON, all the other lights come up momentarily and the oil dummy light goes off the instant I turn the key ON.

    ound out what the clicking noise was. It was the following relay. It was just laying under the radio grounding out on the frame of the dash. I found it, took a picture, then removed the passenger side kick panel.

    Oh...it's the MPI relay? How? I just started my car 10 minutes ago? So I went to start the car and it wouldn't start. I attached the relay where it was supposed to be and tried again. No luck. Then I realized that the CEL didn't illuminate when turning the key on. Then I realized the factory boost gauge didn't rise when the key was on.

    So...I pulled the cover off of the ECU....it's fried...

    Still cannot figure out why the dummy light isn't shutting off....
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013
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  13. codym

    codym Proven Member

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    Nice build man.
    Something that caught my eye...
    Is the drivers door a replacement? It doesn't seem to line up with the twists on the side.
    #13
  14. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    Both front doors were replaced from a 2G Eclipse. The dumbass PO thought they were needed because he wanted to do the 2GB body swap. He got the front bumper from a 2GB Talon (he said a 99' Talon LOL), fenders from a 99 Eclipse, hatch from something, and doors from a 99 Eclipse. Why he felt he needed to get the doors and fenders from another car for the swap is beyond me. He should have got the 2GB rear Talon bumper and hatch.

    So I have no idea what is going on with the doors and the side skirts. I don't know for sure what the doors are from. Nothing the dude said made any sense at all. Oh and he felt the need to replace the hood because he wanted one with an "AWD bump"....I really shouldn't have bought the car off him.

    3/8/13

    My OEM Master Cylinder from STM came in the mail today. Tomorrow, my ECU and MPI Relay from Rob Fig will be here. Can't wait to get everything situated.

    If the master cylinder does not fix my going into gear issue, I will pull the trans, remove one of the shims from the pivot ball, and also use a different clutch/pressure plate.
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013
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  15. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    3/9/13

    Installed the OEM master cylinder today. Bled the system, still wouldn't go into gear. So I decided to remove the trans AGAIN and replace the clutch with an Exedy stage 1 clutch.

    When I removed the pressure plate and clutch...this is what I found.

    Look closely.
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    So as you can see, I broke my clutch. I so wish I would have pulled the clutch off the first time I had my trans off last week. Damn thing would have been finished.

    Anyway, I installed my friends Exeddy stage 1 clutch and pressure plate with less than 1K on it. It goes into gear now. My ECU and MPI relay came into the mail today as well. Didn't put them in yet as I ran out of daylight. Still have to put the UICP on, intake pipe, and other random stuff.

    Old PP on bottom.
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    I put together a parts list of everything I need for my motor build. I have to do something soon so I can give my friend back his 6 bolt as he is getting real eager to start building his 1G again.

    I am not sure what motor I am going to use yet. I would love to find a good 6 bolt block to build. But I have been thinking about getting my 7 bolt machined and use that again. Then drop some Evo 8/9 pistons and rods right in her. Here is my list.

    Evo 8/9 Pistons
    Crank
    Main Bearings
    Rod Bearings
    ARP Main Studs
    ARP Rod Cap Bolts
    ARP Head Studs
    Timing Belt Kit
    Engine Gasket Kit
    Head Hasket
    Oil Filter
    Starter Plate
    Head Dowel Pin
    Clutch Release Fork
    Pivot Ball
    Throw Out Bearing
    Axle Seals
    Hydralic Tensioner Bolts
    Fidanza Flywheel
    Fidanza Clutch Kit
    Front Axles

    Just this list is priced around $1800. So, we will see how it works out I guess.
    #15
  16. born2tune

    born2tune Proven Member

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    clarksville, Tennessee
    So This is more of a blog/daily mishaps page? or is it suppose to be a build journal? im so confused.

    It seems you have broken more stuff than put together man. good luck with what ever it is that you are doing.
    #16
  17. Colt4G63 also

    Colt4G63 also Proven Member

    Joined:
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    Tonawanda, New_York
    Man you are killing that car! You do realize that 99% percent of these failures could have easily been prevented by just doing it correctly in the first place right?
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014
    #17
  18. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
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    Dunmore, Pennsylvania
    The car was raped when I bought it. I really shouldn't have bought it in the first place. My 1G was in awesome shape when I bought it. Never really had any problems with it.

    I found out why my MPI relay pulled out. Last time I pulled my transmission, I was moving the the wiring harness out of the way and where the harness runs through the firewall popped out. So I made sure to put it back in place yesterday.

    I do have plans for the car which were in my last post. But of coarse, all part failures can be prevented. I broke my oil return pipe twice (must be my fault?) so I bought an aftermarket return line. Haven't had problems since.
    #18
  19. Nicklepage1010

    Nicklepage1010 Proven Member

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    Portland, Maine
    Yeah. I feel like all your doing is replacing parts youve ruined.
    Do you just beat the crap out of your car every day?
    #19
  20. born2tune

    born2tune Proven Member

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    clarksville, Tennessee
    Dang I had the same thoughts but you guys are more blunt that I am!
    #20
  21. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

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    Dunmore, Pennsylvania
    I beat on it daily. Occasionally I take it off roading. I also enjoy driving real fast into a crowd of people as well.
    #21
  22. fourgsixthree33

    fourgsixthree33 Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
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    Dunmore, Pennsylvania
    UPDATE: 4-1-13


    I have done a lot recently. My daughter and I fixed my wiring issue. I tore apart the part of the harness that caught on fire. I missed a couple wires so I fixed all of them and taped the harness back up. So my dash and tail lights work again.

    I changed the oil. In the process, my daughter was crawling around in the car and found her Easter basket in the hatch. So I had to give it to her a night early LOL.

    Kurt invited me down for Easter dinner and told me his buddy could weld my exhaust. So I packed the 3" exhaust in the hatch and went down. We got the exhaust on and it sounds much better than I had expected.

    Kurt fixed my front bumper that was held on by zip ties. So now the bumper is tight against the headlights and fenders. Made a very big difference.

    We also fixed my o2 sensor. And Jared restored my ugly ass yellow headlights. Kurt and I both fell in love with the car again.

    Pics and vids!
    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/esL0oOb-PLU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/RovKSqPMsl8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/_TSDsnzlhWU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    Before
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    Before and After
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    After exhaust and other work
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    UPDATE:

    Been awhile since I have updated this. She has been pretty reliable lately. The only repair I have needed to make was replacing a brake line on my left front. I also changed my front brake pads as they were getting warn.

    I put a lot of work into the engine bay too. Kurt painted the valve cover, put the tubular header back on, took purple power to the firewall, etc.

    I also took the 18's off and put the 2gb Eclipse wheels on.

    Before the 18's came off, still no pics with the 16's on.
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    Got some pics today, Also put my tubular o2 housing on as well.

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    #22

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