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95 eclipse GST_ One lean mean FWD road beast

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3,244
241
Jun 25, 2011
Inman, South Carolina
So basically to start I have always like road course races and autocross. LeMan races are the kinda thing I like to watch. I wanting to build my 95 GST to be one bad street\road track car. I do not wish to make it an awd. Maybe on a different build on a different car but not this one. I am intrigued by the challenge of making the fwd stick to the road. I wish to build it to be very agile. The ultimate cornering machine. I have a long road ahead of me. As I am currently only 20 and don't make a whole lot of dollars right now. Only current mods I have right now are from the unfortunate wreck of my much prettier 95 gst. Which are AFPR, 3" apex'i exhaust with no cat and apex'i N1 muffler, ebiach lowering springs, Greddy upper side mount intercooler elbow, and a .40 cylinder bore done with the rebuild. The current engine I do not wish to really build but I have another one with a hole in the block that came with this car and have another block for it. That will be the one I will build then swap in. I want to make it a stroker, port the head and install cams to increase max rpm limit to 8k-9k, use my evo 8 turbo probably with the revshift header or a custom header to give me the twin scroll setup for low end power and fast spool. Still have alot of researching to do on building it but am starting this journal from the very beginning of the long road for this project.
 

Attachments

  • GsT # 2.jpg
Assuming you did all the maintaince timing oil cooling etc

I would start with a good set of coilvers I would recomend the KW,s
poly all your ball joints and rear sway bar

change your brakes fluid montul 600 works and some stoptechs pads

and a nice set of tires 245 or 255 wide tires :thumb:
 
Oh yes engine is new man barely broke in just over 3500 miles on it. Complete rebuild pistons, rings, lifters, valves, hot tanking, bearings everything. Stripped it to bare block then back together again. All necessary machine work to head and block was done. Cylinders were bored .40 over as well. Just need a new turbo and all will be well. It is lowered with eibiach springs and camber kit but the rear is spaced out with thick spacers and longer bolts but the camber is still noticeably negative. Coilovers are a deff thing and will look into kw's. (but what does kw mean? sorry LOL) I'm sure I'll know when you say it. And i definately want to change to poly bushings and motor mounts to. What's a good supplier to get these from? Also want to change to drilled and slotted rotors with gsx calipers or do an evo brake conversion kit for just over 700$. Why change the brake fluid though? Higher boiling point? I'm currently running 225 on 3g wheels but hopefully will be getting another set of vx1's soon and will run a wider tire. They are 17x8 will 245 or 255 fir on these? Thanks for all info given.

also on the sway bar am I looking for a thicker rear sway bar? I'll be doing calculations and research on everything but would like personal opinions on the subject as well.
 
I haven't actually had time to choose a discovered specific class yet man. Been having problems and just recently a timing belt failure. Looking for another car (hardtop) to build for the road racing. What class are you shooting for? I'm really a novice following a road racing dream I've had since GT 1.
So any help on what classes to start with and any advice is greatly appreciated thanks.
 
I am intrigued by the challenge of making the fwd stick to the road.

This is what I like to hear :hellyeah: I'm in the same boat as you in building my FWD car for road racing. Check out these threads for great info on road race builds, as well as a FWD monster build.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/road-course-autocross/325313-time-attack-build-blog.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/367304-high-downforce-eclipse-body-kit-gauging-interest.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm-build-journals/418623-greengoblins-awd-project.html


Coilovers are a deff thing and will look into kw's. (but what does kw mean? sorry LOL) I'm sure I'll know when you say it.

KW is a brand of coilover. The full name is KW Variant 3. It is a hefty bill though, so if you're on a budget, I'd suggest getting some Koni yellow sports and building your own coilovers either with a Ground Control setup or going the DG way.

And i definately want to change to poly bushings and motor mounts to. What's a good supplier to get these from?

Any of our supporting vendors.

Also want to change to drilled and slotted rotors with gsx calipers or do an evo brake conversion kit for just over 700$. Why change the brake fluid though? Higher boiling point?

Skip the drilled and slotted thoughts. Either go with just slotted (like PowerSlot rotors) or just get blanks (normal rotor). You can look into the Evo conversion if you'd like, or look at other BBK (big brake kits) such as ones from TCE, Stoptech, etc. I'd definitely start with just better pads if you are on a budget and stick to the GSX calipers.

Higher boiling point and less hygroscopic.


They are 17x8 will 245 or 255 fir on these?

All depends on the wheels offset and the tire you plan on running, as well as how low the car is.


also on the sway bar am I looking for a thicker rear sway bar? I'll be doing calculations and research on everything but would like personal opinions on the subject as well.

Yup. The RM sway bar is the most common one for our cars.
 
So figured I'd do a small update here. As I said this will take a while to complete and I no longer plan to use my current car for this build. Looking for another hard top gst.

Anyways, just gonna give a list if some parts already bought and future parts. Also list of machine work. This is not complete either. I just haven't touched my thread in so long.


Parts already obtained:

1( Evo 8/9 custom turbo kit. (1350$) Evo 8 turbo(free)

2( 1g tb (10$)

3( Cyclone intake manifold(85$)

4( 1g 90 awd front power slot rotors(50$)

5(hawk hp plus pads front (free)

6( dg spec coilovers with koni yellows (still in process) 1800$+

7( skateboard bearings and poly shifter base bushings

8( skunk2 racing 264/272 evo 8 cams (200$) --prob not gonna be my choice cams.

9( SS braided oil feed line.

10( Hallman mbc (free)

11( arp headstuds (110$)
Parts to come

1( wavetrac lsd (1000$)

2( butcher crank

3( billet flywheel

4( twin disk clutch

5( ati harmonic balancer

6( acl trimetal bearings

7( arp main & rod fasteners

I'll update in time, much more to add.

Machine work.

Valve job____________________175$(valves not included)(includes full cleaning)
Oversize valves______________15$ per valve(for machine work to fit valves)
Install springs________________40$
Resurface head______________40$
Bore cylinders .040"-.060"___90$
Check & polish & clean
Crank_________________________25$
Acid dip block_______________200$
Full engine balance


More to come.
 
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Right on! Looking forward to this build dude. Reppin us FWD'ers. Nice.
I think it being a fwd and all, suspension and BRAKES especially will be the most important components. And damn, they are both very very expensive. These stock brakes on the fwds are just junk even with good pads IMO. Hey good luck and ill be watching this build for sure
 
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