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98 Eclipse GSX 700hp E-85 Beast

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Sartuche24

20+ Year Contributor
123
1
May 8, 2002
Somewhere, Indiana
Well this is my first car build I've ever done so it's going to be fun and frustrating at the same time. I picked up a 98 Eclipse GSX last month with 41,012 miles on the body. The body is in pretty descent shape, has some dents here and there and when the previous owner had it, the tow truck driver decided it was a good idea to open the driver door while the car was on an angle on the flatbed. Well gravity of course kicked in and the door flew forward, bent the fender and now the door doesn't close correctly, from what I can tell the hinges A) moved forward and need to be adjusted or B) the hinges are bent and need to be replaced. Other than the door moving forward it still closes and keeps the rain out.

The previous owner also didn't know much about cars and there's a problem with the motor, it could either be seized or just a blown head gasket but he had to clue as to what exactly was the issue. I haven't had time to actually figure out if the motor is okay or not but if not I will just pickup another, so no big deal there. I can tell that this isn't the original motor either, it has a 1G Green Top CAS which is spliced like the 6 Bolt into a 7 Bolt swap. I also haven't verified if it's a 6 bolt or not. I know I can feel the oil pan behind the crank pulley to see if it is or not, but once again I've been busy and haven't verified this. Also whoever did the swap, had a huge exhaust leak as you will see in the pictures, also they left the lower timing belt cover off which is stupid. This also has a different turbo on it, judging from the housing it looks to maybe be a ebay 16G but I could be wrong. I also noticed the oil return line from the turbo is busted, don't know if this possible caused the motor to seize or if it was damaged after.

I got the car because of the condition the body was in. I live where salt is used and trying to find a DSM that isn't rusted out is very difficult, this car has zero strut tower rust, the front portion where the middle cross member mounts is rust free and the wheel wells and rockers all look good too. The paint is pretty descent shape other than the front and back bumper, I plan on having the entire car resprayed anyways so not a big deal. The interior is in descent shape and the carpet is to bad, I'm going to pull it out and pressure wash it so it will look like new or close as new. The driver seat has some descent wear but I think I'm going to replace the seats with racing seats or I can find the same seats in better condition and just replace them.

Ok so enough about the car, lets get onto this build. Now I'm open to suggestions, like I've said, I haven't owned a DSM in 9 years, first one was a 95 Eagle Talon TSI AWD, didn't have anything special done but had to get rid of it. I know this is going to be expensive and don't expect it to be done overnight, I'm looking at a couple years or so. I plan on running E85 since it available, its about a 45 minute drive away but I don't plan on this being a DD, it's more of a weekend warrior, occasional driver during the week.

Here's my list:

Block
  • 2.0 Eagle 6 Bolt forged crank - Sticking with the stock crank.
  • ACL main bearings
  • ACL Rod bearings
  • ARP Harmonic balancer bolt/washer
  • ARP Main Studs with Align Hone
  • Fluidyne harmonic balancer
  • Kiggly Racing 6 Bolt Main Girdle
  • Manley I Beam Rods 21mm Pin
  • OEM BSE kit port oil filter relief valve port to help with oil pressure.
  • OEM Oil pump
  • Wiseco 1400HD E85 Piston's 10.5:1

Head
  • AEM Cam Gears (Black)
  • ARP Cam Gear bolts
  • ARP Cam Tower Bolts
  • ARP L-19 head studs
  • Cometic Engine Gasket Kit w/MLS Head Gasket
  • Kelford 276/272's
  • Kiggly bee-hive springs/retainers
  • Kiggly HLA Pressure Regulator
  • Mishimoto Catch Can with AN fittings
  • Mr. Gasket Copper exhaust manifold gasket
  • MSD spark plug wires
  • Supertech Valve Guides
  • Supertech Valve Stem Seal Kit Dual Spring
  • SuperTech Valves 1mm Over
  • Topline Revised Lifters
  • Zaklee Clear Timing belt cover

Intake/Intercooler
  • Apexi Power Intake - Have but not installed.
  • ETS 2g Super short route intercooler 26x12x4
  • FP 4" intake pipe with Couplers
  • Greddy Type S BOV - Already Installed!
  • JMF Street Version Intake Manifold
  • S90 74mm Throttle body

Cooling
  • Mishimoto X-Line Aluminum Race Radiator
  • OEM thermostat
  • Twin Mishimoto 16" 1934CFM Slim fans

Turbo/Exhaust
  • 3" Greddy Catback Exhaust - Already Installed!
  • 3" Road Race Engineering Long Down Pipe (No Cat) beauty of no emissions :) - Changed turbos
  • Custom Downpipe from JMF
  • FP JB Black with bolt kit and FP oil lines - Changed turbos
  • FP Ported Race Manifold (Ceramic Coated Black) - Changed turbos
  • FP HTA GT3586R .82 A/R with Tial V-Band and FP oil lines
  • JMF Top Mount Exhaust Manifold with Tial 44mm MVR Wastegate Flange
  • Punishment Racing O2 Housing With Tial MVS Recirculated - Changed turbos

Tuning
  • AEM UEGO Wideband O2 Gauge
  • ECMlink v3 Full with Speed Density Plug n' Play harness
  • Greddy Profec B Spec 1 Boost Controller
  • Speed Density with 4 Bar MAP

Drivetrain
  • ACT MaXX Xtreme Solid 6-Puck Clutch Kit
  • ARP Flywheel Bolts
  • Drive-shaft Yolk Rebuild Kit
  • DSS 650HP Front Axles
  • DSS 650HP Rear Axles
  • DSS 950HP Aluminum Driveshaft
  • Extreme PSI Shifter Kit
  • Extreme Psi Under Hood Shifter Cable End Bushing Kit
  • Jacks Stage 2.2 Super-HD Transmission with 4-Spider Center Differential Upgrade.
  • Megan Racing Short Shifter
  • New Carrier bearing, spacer, nuts and washers
  • OEM Clutch fork
  • OEM Clutch Master Cylinder
  • OEM E-Brake cable
  • OEM E-Brake shoes
  • OEM Pivot ball
  • OEM Slave Cylinder
  • Rebuild transfer-case by Jacks Transmissions
  • STM Stainless Clutchline (Master to Slave)

Suspension/Braking
  • Goodridge Braided stainless brake lines.
  • Hawk HPS pads front/rear
  • Megan Racing EZ Street Coilover Damper Kit
  • OEM Front HUB x2
  • OEM Front Lower Compression Control Arm x2
  • OEM Front Lower Lateral Control Arm x2
  • OEM Rear Control Arm x2
  • OEM Rear HUB x2
  • OEM Rear Toe Arm
  • OEM Rear Trailing Arm x2
  • OEM Tie Rod End x2
  • Power Slot slotted rotors front/rear
  • Prothane bushing kit
  • Rebuild brake calipers front and rear.

Fuel Delivery
  • AEM Fuel Rail.
  • FIC 2150cc High-Z injectors with Resistor Pack Delete
  • Fuel Lab 40 Micron stainless steel Fuel Filter
  • STM Fuel Return Kit -6AN Return
  • STM Fuel Tank to Rail Kit -6AN Feed (Black)
  • Walbro 450lph fuel pump with rewire


Okay now some pictures of the car, she's a dirty girl but it sat outside for over a year, nothing a good bath can't clean up.
qbb7.jpg

o36r.jpg

df22.jpg

shzg.jpg

fpf2.jpg

1o3c.jpg


Let me know what you think. Any ideas or suggestions, I'm open and look forward to sharing this build with you all.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Have you considered doing any oem upgrades from other cars if you are replacing the parts anyways?

I have not personally done any of these changes, but I intend to next time the parts require replacing.
Some of the other guys locally have experienced issues with running out of adjustment in the rear-toe arms when dropping too low. Maybe this would resolve that issue:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/382953-cheap-rear-toe-arms-solution.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...973-05-06-outlander-bigger-brake-upgrade.html

Also, what wheels and tires do you plan on running?
 
Have you considered doing any oem upgrades from other cars if you are replacing the parts anyways?

I have not personally done any of these changes, but I intend to next time the parts require replacing.
Some of the other guys locally have experienced issues with running out of adjustment in the rear-toe arms when dropping too low. Maybe this would resolve that issue:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/382953-cheap-rear-toe-arms-solution.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...973-05-06-outlander-bigger-brake-upgrade.html

Also, what wheels and tires do you plan on running?

Never thought at this. I don't plan on going stupid low, just a little lower than stock, but if I run into a problem I might do something like they did in the other posts. I have some 17x7.5 HD Clutch Rims, Bronze in color. Tires on the rims right now are 215/45R17 Goodyear Eagle GT's. Probably going to change, don't know but my step-son runs a tire shop so I can get a great deal on tires :thumb: . Here's a picture of the rims. It's not the best but gives you an idea.

sjpo.jpg
 
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Save yourself some money and skip the forged crank... OEM crank can handle 700hp. It's about the most bomb proof part on these cars from the factory. Also, your list is missing a turbo. And I wouldn't go with the FP exhaust manifold because in order to get 700hp your probably going to step outside of the mitsu-flanged turbos.
 
I've heard the crank can take a high amount of horsepower so I may stick with it. I had an FP Black for the turbo since I was going to go with the FP Manifold but I have also wondered if I'm going to end up hurting myself in the end sticking with the Mitsu Style Flange. I've seen several videos of FP Black's making 650 but that could as well be the max too. I haven't purchased any of that but if I go a different route I'm more than likely going to go with a JMF exhaust, they do some beautiful work. If I go with the JMF option then I will go with a top mount exhaust to make it easier to work on the turbo.

I know ball bearing turbos spool better but they don't have the rebuild option like you have with a journal bearing turbo. Maybe I don't need to be hung up on that aspect but dropping over $2K for something you can't possibly rebuild is disturbing or worrisome. Granted when you are wanting to make this type of hp, thing's are going to break and thing's will need to be fixed, especially when it's a DSM! If I don't going with the Black then I might look at a HX40 with a T4 housing, I know you can make some crazy power with an HX40.
 
Looks like you got a loooong way to go but that is a very nice list. Few things on it are going on my car aswell. Ill be keeping my eye on this build
 
Oh yeah, I have a ways to go but I also don't like rushing things either. I'm a perfectionist when it comes to doing things. Hopefully with taxes this year I can get some of the items on the list. My first goal is the motor. I want to then build out from there. I may look at picking up a stock motor and throwing it in so I can at least drive the car because I also know it sitting around isn't the best either, plus I just want to drive it even if it is stock.
 
Due to some suggestions and also some more research I'm going to stick with the stock crank and skip a forged crank for the time being. Also going with a different turbo setup, moving away from the FP Black and going to a FP HTA GT3586R .82 A/R with a JMF Top Mount Manifold and custom downpipe setup. Also looking at picking up a stock motor either the end of this month or next month and dropping it in the car so I can at least drive it around and gives me time to work on the motor without having the car out of commission.
 
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