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Old 11-05-2011, 07:52 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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Car: CA4A Mirage Mivec
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Evo 3


A log of my Evolution 3 going from daily driver duty to an autocross animal


I got the car with a few things done to it, Ralliart front and rear strut tower braces, Cusco Coil overs, Whiteline rear sway bar, Kakimoto 3" cat back, HKS BOV, a Blitz SUS intake and some suspension bushings that were uninstalled.











Had to change the alternator and accessory belts while i was in there....AC belt on these cars is a PITA
Took out the Cusco shifter cable bushings and installed the Extreme PSI bearings and i noticed it is a little notchier which happens to be my personal preference
Flushed/bled the clutch with dot 4 as the current fluid was looking a little brown.
Removed the HKS mechanical oil temp and pressure gauges which were bright as all hell and I did not feel safe with them inside the cabin, plugged the ports on the oil filter housing at the same time.
Adjusted the headlights as i couldn't see past 6 feet in front the car at night lol needed some real good reaction time to dodge pot holes.

Suspension build

The car came with a few goodies so I did not have to start from scratch.
Cusco Zero 2 coilovers with 7kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rear springs
Ralliart front and rear strut tower braces
Whiteline 22mm rear sway bar






First mods were Megan rear upper camber adjustment rods, Superflex rear lower control arm bushings and new OEM lower camber bolts.






Superflex eccentric front lower control arm front bushings. The car actually came with the front control arm rear bushings changed to poly ones. They are installed wrong in the picture, I have yet to rectify that.


Superflex rear trailing arm bushings, these were a bitch to do on the car but they made the largest improvement of all the bushings

The rear diff bushings were changed out to Ralliart solid rubber bushings. I still need to make up some “pineapple” rings for the front bushings to further limit any rotating of the diff. I also want to remove the large cast iron mustache bar at some point and just make a bracket that welds to the rear subframe.

I plan on changing the 7kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rear springs on the Cusco Zero 2’s out to 10kg/mm front and 8kg/mm rear springs from Swift. I also have to figure out how to add the Chrysler ball joint to a cast steel lower control arm, add the Megan rear upper toe adjustment rods and change out the tie rods to adjustable ones.

Brake and wheel upgrades

The car came with EBC Red stuffs all around and some unknown slotted rotors.




FD3S calipers, 05 Nissan Altima 294mm rotors, custom ½” aluminum brackets and Fragola lines/fittings.




The wheels would not clear the calipers so I got some custom 10mm hub and wheel centric spacers made up to use with some longer studs





Pedal feel is AMAZING. Pedal travel has decreased noticeably.




My ABS stopped working and my rear brake lines were rusted so I ditched the ABS and installed a Cusco Master cylinder brace, Evo 3 RS non-ABS proportioning valve and Lancer GLS non-ABS brake lines.
I had to weld the proportioning valve bracket to the Cusco master cylinder brace bracket to drop the proportioning valve down so the Cusco bracket would fit. Then I had to re-bend one of the feed lines to the proportioning valve to clear the other half of the Cusco brace.

As for brake pads right now it has EBC yellows up front in the FD calipers and EBC reds out back. I just bought the Yellows before I blew the car up so those will be staying but I need to upgrade all the pads to Carbotech AX6’s.

The car currently is using Enkei RPF01 in 16x7 and Toyo R1R’s in 225/50R16. Eventually I will be upgrading to 5 lug and some Rota or XXR 17x9’s so I can run some 245/40R17 Hankook R-S3’s whenever I get some ZG flares.


Last edited by Sirnixalot; 11-05-2011 at 09:52 AM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 11-07-2011, 09:21 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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Engine mods

First round of engine mods were simple bolt ons


Ebay O2 housing for a DSM


Comparing the stock down pipe to the 2g GSX Megan 3”


I had to add a section to connect the down pipe to the cat back.


FIC 750cc injectors and a rewired Walbro 255 were added when I installed the Evo 8 ECU


Got my paws on a set of Ralliart engine mounts. I filled the upper engine and the transmission mount with 3M 5200 marine sealant.

Evo 8 ECU upgrade


Got an Evo 8 ecu, ODB2 pigtail and a Boomslang patch harness. It was running Tephra V5. I have since redid the rom to Tephra V7 with the big maps but the car is down so no chance to run as yet.


First log. This is at 19psi creeping to 25psi. This was on the Evo 3 knock sensor which was seeing tons of phantom knock hence the low tq.


20whp and 17wtq from changing out to the Evo 8 knock sensor


Final tune at 25psi after adding an Evo 8 MAF (ebay intercooler, Blitz sus intake, ebay O2 housing, Megan 3” down pipe and full 3” exhaust)

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Old 11-07-2011, 10:12 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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LOVE THIS EVO! Is it the real deal or convertion?
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:28 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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lol...real deal sir. I am in the Cayman Islands.

Have a 2.3 bottom end on the stand, should have some pictures of that this week once i get everything assembled


I saw a 2.3L used stroker on here for a good price so I bought that. Unfortunately upon inspection on arrival, the pistons had come into contact with the valves and the bores in cyl #3 had major scores going down it.

The crank was good so I sent my block to the local machine shop with the pistons (after I hand filed down the burrs from the valve contact) where it got decked, bored and honed for a piston to wall clearance of 0.035”.

The engine build is:
OEM 4g64 crank turned 10 thou
OEM 7 bolt rods
Probe racing stroker pistons 85.5mm bore and 8.5:1 compression ratio
ACL race bearings
ARP head studs
Cometic 1.3mm head gasket
Evo 8 OEM valve springs, retainers, lifters and valves
HKS 272* Intake and 264* exhaust cams (hoping to get a BC 280* exhaust cam on here)
Stock Evo 3 intake manifold with custom 63mm throttle body

I port matched the oil pumps inlet to the pick up tube, ported the oil relief hole as the balance shafts and oil squirters were removed.



Got my stock throttle body bored out to 63mm with a 16ga stainless throttle plate. I installed Milspec throttle shaft seals and a new BISS screw and O-ring.


The cylinder head was sent to Dover Cylinder Heads in Orlando for a resurface and a cleaning.


I installed a Kiggly HLA regulator and a full Evo 8 stock valve train. I need to lap the valves one last time.



I scored an older AGP Race intercooler (24x12x3.5”)for an SRT-4 locally and modified the outlets to work with my setup. I will be using 2.5” piping. Behind it is an AFCO Scirocco style radiator

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Sirnixalot/Evo/fa3ddec2.jpg[img]
Mocking up the shroud for the radiator to use two 9” Maradyne 750cfm fans.


I converted the stock outlets and the radiator to -16AN


Longacre oil cooler 11x8x1.5”. I will be using -8AN push fit fittings to the Evo 8 OFH


Wrinkle black powder coated valve cover with a Steeda weld on oil filler cap and two -8AN ports which will go to a Calan catch can


-6AN fittings welded to the stock rail which is at the powder coaters along with my intake manifold to get the wrinkle black treatment as well.


The fuel rail will go with an AEM FPR. -6AN in with a -4AN out, push lock fittings here as well. A summit -6AN fule filter and the Russell 14x1.5 to -6AN adapter will supply the fuel.


All of that will be paired with a short runner manifold i made and an Evo X turbo with a 20g compressor side.


I finished up the AFCO radiator shroud today, sealed it up with foam and some aluminum A/C ducting tape and mounted everything together. The fans are Maradyne Champion series 9" fans, 790cfm a pop.

Last edited by Sirnixalot; 11-08-2011 at 02:36 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 11-09-2011, 07:39 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Mocked up the alternator just to make sure where everything goes.


Fuel rail back from the powder coater


My throttle body gasket and new shaft seals from Mil.Spec also got here...exactly 8 days after i ordered. Who say's the post office can't ship quick?

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Old 11-10-2011, 04:40 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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Very cool build. If you guys have wrecking yards out there and you come across any Evo 3's there, let me know. I'd love to see if those front control arms will fit a 1g. Maybe the spindles too.


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Old 11-10-2011, 05:12 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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They are cast or forged steel not stamped and welded which is one reason why i have not done the Chrysler ball joints yet. Any particularly reason you want them?

I think i know someone who has a set, i will check and PM you if he does. You know anyone coming here for vacation as shipping would be a bit pricey.

I got some more work done today


Blocked off the oil squirters with some 12x1.25mm bolts, had to cut them down to 12mm thread length (or however thick the nut was).


Got a socket turned on a lathe for a balance shaft bearing tool


Mil.spec 65mm throttle body gasket (just a cut out OEM Evo 8 metal one but i didn't have to do the cutting)


GM 3 port! The resistor i need to wire this thing up should be in the mail


6mm and 4mm vacuum hose


Vibrant 4mm quick connect line and fittings


Synapse DV, 1.25" aluminum tubing and 2ft of 1.25" silicone hose. Verocious Motorsports hose is THICK

I managed to re-relap 2 cylinders worth of valves today and they are now leak free. I will do the other 2 tomorrow and then get the head on, fight with the balance shaft bearings and sort the oil drain line.

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Old 11-11-2011, 01:16 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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looks awsome looking foward to more
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Old 11-11-2011, 06:15 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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More you shall have!

I am a NOOB! I was trying to press the wrong bearing in. Got that sorted and everything is assembled!


Sprayed the block side of the gasket.


Timin belt all done!


Long block!

The oil drain will not work out in braided so i will be bitching up the 2 45* fittings and getting them welded together with some 19mm aluminum tubing.

The oil drain will not work out in braided so i will be bitching up the 2 45* fittings and getting them welded together with some 19mm aluminum tubing.

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Old 11-17-2011, 05:32 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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soooo much win! I envy your EVO...I want one so bad....only 4-door car I want ever


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Old 11-17-2011, 06:14 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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Awesome job keep up the good work I love the old evo's.Im not sure, but your timming belt tensioner pulley and tensioner arm look a little off to me and others that I have seen.The gap looks a little big.Maybe im just crazy
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:58 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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love it bro...

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Old 11-18-2011, 06:51 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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i have to take off the timing belt and the engine mount bracket to put on the backing plate for the middle timing cover so i will be redoing it all.





Got the intake manifold back from the powdercoater. Can't wait to get this installed so i can drop in the motor. Thew out my back so that's not happening this weekend







My baffle solution


Finished the long block


Last edited by Sirnixalot; 11-18-2011 at 06:24 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 11-19-2011, 05:43 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Got LOADS done today




Down pipe progress. I see way out of pizza slicing the main 3" bend. I will pretty much just cut a ton of pizza slices and put together the puzzle


They may be too tall


Well i got the stock flywheel, ACT unsprung 6 puck and Clutch Masters 2200lb pressure plate put on the engine and set about putting in back in the car. I need to get the thermostat housing back from the welder, having a 1/8NPT bung welded to where the heater take off was for gauge use in the future


I need to notch the middle support and the front most fitting will clear


I may have to ditch the shroud and just mount them directly to the rad


Have to redo the actuator rod depending on what i do with the radiator, i just need to have the bend closer to the canister.

Next week is the front suspension, new brake lines, engine bay wiring, fuel and oil plumbing.

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Old 11-19-2011, 08:54 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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Super sick build man.. I can't wait to see the end result. Good luck.

Oh yea are you going to be tuning your evo yourself with opensource??



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Old 11-20-2011, 07:43 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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Thanks

I was tuning it with the help of a friend locally with Evoscan and ECUFlash.

I am gonna try and mock up the cold pipe today and see where i need to make cuts.

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Old 11-21-2011, 05:57 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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So does an ebay 2G DSM AWD downpipe work for the car then, with an evo 3 O2 housing?

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Old 11-21-2011, 06:00 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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Yea Evoscan and Ecuflash is good stuff, I can't wait to get off my lazy ass and start messing with it. Post up some logs I'd love to see your progress if you don't mind.

Alex


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Old 11-21-2011, 06:04 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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Good stuff, thanks for sharing!

I am looking for one of those cars up here...
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:32 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeski08 View Post
So does an ebay 2G DSM AWD downpipe work for the car then, with an evo 3 O2 housing?
No i was using an ebay 2g O2 housing (which was thin as hell and kept cracking, go with a Punishment Racing one at least!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 907dsm View Post
Yea Evoscan and Ecuflash is good stuff, I can't wait to get off my lazy ass and start messing with it. Post up some logs I'd love to see your progress if you don't mind.

Alex
I have attached the last log i got to do back in January. It still needed some work as there is some knock between 3000-4500 and again between 6000 and 7000 ish.

I will have to basically log the crap out of the car whenever i get it running because its a COMPLETELY different setup (2.3L, cams, different exhaust manifold, different turbo and much better intercooler)

Quote:
Originally Posted by olmytsi View Post
Good stuff, thanks for sharing!

I am looking for one of those cars up here...
No problem...good luck, Florida seems to be pretty relaxed about grey imports so you shouldn't have to look too hard, i just couldn't be bothered spending ridiculous money on a 15-16 year old car. I paid US$7800 for the car (which is $6500 in our currency). If you do find one inspect the roof, they are notorious for rust, pull down a corner of the head liner if you can.

might actually want to attach the log


Don't mind the mess. I can't wait to finish up the front end of the car this weekend




I managed to take care of the oil cooler plumbing on sunday.
Attached Files
File Type: csv EvoScanDataLog_2011.01.26_22.25.02.csv (26.7 KB, 4 views)

Last edited by Sirnixalot; 11-21-2011 at 06:36 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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