Evo 3

[Sirnixalot]

Well i got it up and running It definitely needs a retune though.

I managed to leave the RTV too long to set up on the oil pan so i have a small leak from the front of the pan and i tore an axle boot. The shop i used to work at has the car and is gonna take care of that for me tomorrow since i really don't have any time this week to get under the car (read i am being lazy)

I should be doing some idle fuel trim logs tomorrow after work and MAYBE some cruising logs for the mid trims.

I know its not the best vid but here is more proof that the Evo 8 cams can be made to work in our head. I am running an Evo 3/DSM HKS 272* intake and an Evo 8 280* exhaust cam.(if you consider a video that is basically darkness with one head light on and a car idling on the word of a complete stranger proof)

If you have cam gears that have the dowel holes for both the DSM and Evo applications then its even easier. I just rotated the inner hub of my cam gear to point the Evo 8 cam dowel to the front of the car which left the cam timing marks alone to make things easier to time up. (Evo 8 dowels point out and DSM dowels point up)

The car is definitely lacking some low end and it is a little "laggy". 2.3L spoiled me for sure.

Look for autocross vids end of month!

*EDIT*
MUCH better vid of the sound at idle (1200rpm need to work on that and get it down to at least 1000rpm)

Idling temps The AFCO scirocco rad, twin 750cfm fans and Ralliart thermostat (160*F) are working nicely. The oil cooler thermostat is a 71*C unit from HKS so all appears to be well on the idling front. I will report back after some logging 3rd gear pulls.

The Apexi gauge is in *C (oil) and the Summit red LED gauge is in *F (coolant)

 

[907dsm]

Car sounds good man, glad to see you got it back up and running man. I love the accent man, my family is from St.Croix and all other parts of the virgin islands haha.

 

[Sirnixalot]

Thanks...how the hell unna end up in Alaska?! Miami gets too cold to us at times much less up so!

I am having a minor issue preventing me from really starting to tune the car. The damned low fuel trims aren't logging.

I have tried swapping to a different rom, double checking all the periphery settings but still no joy. I will be doing a long cruise session this week to see if that gets them to show up!

I have knocked down the timing around 2000-3000rpm in the 70-120 load areas which has cured my knock. The car goes like stink on 10psi on this "tune" I have been taking it relatively easy since i still only have 100 miles on the new motor, i did seat the rings with lots of engine braking and some boost up to like 4000rpm, but was afraid to spin bearings again so i have not really used the whole rev range.

I should hopefully get some logs and virtual dyno stuff up this week.

 

[Sirnixalot]

No such luck! Been busy all week sorting out little gremlins.

This weekend i am building a battery tray for behind the passenger seat and the seal for the fuel pump hanger that goes around the plug for the wiring is leaking so i need to take the hanger out and seal that up with something.

Hopefully i get to do the cruising logs this weekend to reset the fuel trims so i can get onto some WOT tuning

 

[Sirnixalot]

Still a work in progress but

The red lines are where i am at now on 14psi and the green line is were i was at before i tore into the car at 25psi.

I will be more than fine with the 14psi tune for autocross. After this months event i will crank up to 22psi and do some more logging.

 

[Sirnixalot]

So over the weekend i got to my first autocross event to shake the car down.

The first 2 runs were plagued with a fuel cut problem which turned out being a loose connection on the fuel pump relay (would disconnect on left turns, probably karma for making fun of nascar).

I fixed that and then ended up over driving and getting in a fight with a 4x4 post real estate sign

I have already found a replacement hood and getting a new fender this week. The bumper needs some heat gun and filler treatment.

The head light i will leave out for now.

Some better pics from the day

 

[mattasi]

Well at least you were having fun with the car before hitting the pole. .

When your motor went out and started knocking you put together a new motor. Did you rebuild the turbo? Just curious, some do, some don't. because of the metal chips and what not.

 

[Sirnixalot]

Nah I didn't rebuild the turbo. I plan on inspecting the the turbo for shaft play when i replace the front body panels this weekend though.

So far it has been doing just fine

 

[Sirnixalot]

Well i got the body work done at the local Ford dealer (best body shop on the rock {thumbup} ) and i gave the car a single coat (need to do another of semigloss rattle can!

It needs another coat and thin layer of filler over the holes i welded up on the trunk lid.

Tomorrow i should be getting a 3.5bar map sensor so i can start playing with ecu controlled boost (its at 10psi right now). Going to go for 18psi and see what we get.

 

[HaveBlue83]

yay back at it again! good stuff buddy

 

[KHRacing]

They are cast or forged steel not stamped and welded which is one reason why i have not done the Chrysler ball joints yet. Any particularly reason you want them?

EVO 1 has pressed steel (welded)

EVO 2 / 3 have forged -

Volvo S / V 40 1996-1999 share several parts with the EVO1-2-3,
including the same front lower controlarms as the EVO 1.

 

[Sirnixalot]

Thanks

I have a front lower ball joint solution in the works.

Everything should be here by next month.

I am machining down a spherical bearing weld cup to 40mm OD with a 2mm lip to press into the arm from the top and tack weld on the bottom. I will use a 5/8" ID spherical bearing and a 5/8" mono ball stud after the stud has the taper machined.

 

[KHRacing]

Love the car btw
Not many EVO´s here, even if its an DSM-site
take aloook at my build journal if you have the time.

 

[Sirnixalot]

Thanks!

I will do. Been pondering the RWD conversion for a while but i have a bad record with breaking rear differentials .

Half of my new roll center adjusters arrived! Just need to lathe down the cups.

 

[Sirnixalot]

comparison

Next weekend i will most likely do the conversion.

My new bumpsteer kit should be here by next week hopefully. Which is just in time as my front passenger tire is wearing on the outside so it realy needs an alignment

 

[Sirnixalot]

Took the arms off last night and brought them to the welder this morning. I should be picking them up lunch time

Also saw a free mod...there is enough flat area for me to drill a hole about 3/4" inboard on the front sway

I swear the welder at Scott's could weld ketchup to the moon. The arms were heated up and then the cups were TIG welded in place. The steel plug used to hold the shape worked perfectly.

Some grinding of the LCA needed to be done

The arms sit about an inch lower than what they were.

I also had to cut about 1/2" off the studs to clear the wheel.

I am now getting some bump steer but that was expected. The tie rods should arrive next week to solve that problem.

 

[Sirnixalot]

I have been having some creep issues which have been kicking my ass but hopefully I am almost to the point of solving them.

A major improvement has been to go from a flat flange with a rounded entry into a 1.75" pipe to a large taper into the 1.75" pipe using most of the area available

This is what my boost curve looks like at the moment (this is just the actuator with the Hallman turned all the way down)

Unfortunately I haven't been able to take the car out since the front alignment is out. Luckily I have some new bad ass tie rods from xLoki77x on here. I will be swapping them out Friday evening along with 2 new to me tires and getting it aligned saturday.

Going for -2* up front (caster is not really adjustable) and 0 toe. The back i will probably set to -1.5* camber and i will not be touching the toe since they are the only thing I have not changed yet and the bolts will be rusted to the sleeve in the bushing.

 

[Sirnixalot]

Got the car aligned today. Damned rear toe cam bolts are frozen solid so no rear toe adjustment.

Which sucks because one side is toed out 0.05* and the other toed in 0.18*. Some new rear trailing arms are in the works though so that issue should be solved soonish.

I ended up with -1.5* camber and 0.05* toe out up front, -1* camber out back.

I also got the COP soldered up finally

 

[2nd Gen Mnstr]

Yup. IM pretty jelous.

 

[Magrud3r]

Sweet evo, very jealous I've always wanted an older evo but living in the States.. eh.

 

[Sirnixalot]

thanks guys.

The AEM Twin fire took a dump so i am back to the stock ignition.

Right now i am just fighting with the tuning. The knock sensor appears to be picking up a ton of knock so i made some knock sensor ear muffs to confirm. It's false for the most part, one or 2 pings but nothing like the 26counts the sensor is saying is happening.

 

[Sirnixalot]

My knock issue was cam overlap. I have advanced the exhaust cam 3* and retarded the intake 2*. Problem solved!

I got some RTM center bearing bushings that I hope to install this weekend along with a Shep viscous coupling eliminator to go RWD

The 2WD class in the local series has a much larger field, and I prefer RWD.

 

[Sirnixalot]

Weir performance diff plates, for $180 + shipping i definitely recommend it!

Stock plates being removed

Freshly re-plated. Weir says to use non-synthetic so I have over filled the diff a little (1.25qt) with some Valvoline 85w140.

Today I completed a 5 lug swap using 1G front hobs and evo 4 rear hubs

I know i need a corner light

Plans are to go back to AWD so i can be competitive in auto cross again.

 

[HaveBlue83]

good to see you doing work on it man! I have been off tuners for awhile but I see you on MPF now . I'm swapping the mirage with the 4g63 now

 

[KHRacing]

I really like the sinple looks of it.