New AWD front axles different, Need some Help Please!!

[DSM Jeff]

Went to the parts store today to pick up 2 remanufactured axles (fronts) for my 1990 AWD. Now my 1st question is on the driver side, longer side, there is a the axle that goes into the trans. and then a "carrier bearing" then the cv joint/axle/cv joint then hub splines. Well the new axle doesn't have the axle half with the carrier bearing, there is just the cv joint with splines where something can go in. I'm going to guess i need to reuse that part of my axle? What is the best way of removing this piece. Do i use the carrier as something to pry against, or put the axle in a vise (worried about messing it up)
Next the passenger side, they new one looked different then my old one. Where the axle goes into the tranny, theres the cv casing, the steel part thats green (think most are, saying for visual) the new one had a much larger diameter casing and then the out cv joint looked different. is this normal? i have another one of those on order so we can check.
Please, what do i do with the driver side axle?? and is it normal to have a different looking cv joint casing? sorry for the novel i need to figure this out by tomorrow!!
and if you don't understand i can get a pic up if needed.

 

[bosljeff]

That's ironic, I just replaced my driver's side one last night.

You are right, the driver's side one doesn't come with the shaft that goes into the tranny and that bracket (I think Haynes calls it a bearing bracket). So what you have to do is unbolt that bearing bracket and pull the entire thing out of the tranny. Then, that cylindrical thing just after the bearing bracket is what you have to beat with a hammer to separate. You can beat this cuz your new axle has this. Once seperated you then slide the splines that you just exposed by beating it apart into the new axle. I hope that makes sense. If you want, I can "draw" you some ghetto pix. It isn't really that hard, just kind of a hassle. I don't know how much different the passenger side is.

Yeah, there is a special tool you can use to seperate that spot after the bearing bracket, but it wasn't really that hard. And the place you got the axle from should take back the core no matter how bad you beat it.

If you have any questions feel free to ask.

 

[DSM Jeff]

Ghetto pic ownz!! thank you for that. Now i'm feeling better. So tomorrow i'll pick up my axles, tonight i'm putting in new bushings in my lower control arms and putting my new eibachs on my new kyb's. oh happy day.
Thanks again for the help, i understand what i need to do. And i know they'll take what ever i bring them back, i've become a regular at autozone, and the driver side is in 2 pieces anyway.

 

[bosljeff]

Check this out too...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61919

 

[BUCK]

Well the new axle doesn't have the axle half with the carrier bearing, there is just the cv joint with splines where something can go in. I'm going to guess i need to reuse that part of my axle? What is the best way of removing this piece. Do i use the carrier as something to pry against, or put the axle in a vise (worried about messing it up)

I unbolt the Brake Wheel cylinder (2 17MM head bolts) leave the brake line intact & hang it with wire from the spring - when you turn the steering wheel (have the whole front end on jack stands - rear wheels blocked) that gives you enough room to completely remove it from the carrier bearing - I'd leave the carrier bolted to the motor unless you've pulled it to avoid some Tranny Fluid loss - you won't loose all of it if you pull the half shaft with carrier bearing - but you will lose some (about 1/2 quart) if you have the car level. The shaft from the Carrier bearing has a springy Circlip on it that mates to a groove inthe Inner CV Joint Coupling - just a good wack on the CV joint body away from the Carrier Bearing will overcome the spring & it slides off. DON"T hurt the Carrier Bearing seals!! - As you can't get them from Mitsu, you have to buy the entire bearing assembly (pressed on the shaft) or match the sizes up & get them aftermarket - PITA~! - Then slide or whack CV out of the Wheel Bearing Hub - You certainly should check or just replace the Tranny seals & Inner Wheel bearing seals (& repack w/grease) while you are there IMO. This is a great time to check or change front brake pads - you'll want a couple cans of brake cleaner handy at the least.

Next the passenger side, they new one looked different then my old one. Where the axle goes into the tranny, theres the cv casing, the steel part thats green (think most are, saying for visual) the new one had a much larger diameter casing and then the out cv joint looked different. is this normal? i have another one of those on order so we can check.

The manual says don't pull on that shaft as you can hurt something in the tranny - it says to pry it at the Tranny but don't put the prying tool so deep as hurt the seal - there is a similar springy circlip thing in there too.

 

[DSM Jeff]

thanks for the link and buck thanks for the detailed help. didn't get a chance to post last night but it came right out. i used a punch on the cv side to tap the rest of the joint off the axle. (did that so i could get a better angle rather just a straight hammer)
Actually this isn't my 1st time replacing or removing. but the last time i replaced was a non turbo which is differnet. i've removed about 4 pairs of axles total. basically new wheel bearings, seals, axles, brake pads, rotors, stainless lines, shocks, springs, and full bushings are going in. along with a jdm motor (stock blown) the car should feel like new. oh and taking the time to clean as much as i can while things are apart.

thanks again guys!!

 

[BUCK]

Hopefully someone else will get help from the thread - Sounds like a fun project your on - OH HELL YEAH!

 

[DSM Jeff]

Oh this is just the start, dsm's aren't new to me, but i have the 1st 1g in the fam so replacing an axle was kinda new and my bro wasn't home to ask.
yes, this thread has some great info