AWD Rear Sub Frame, bolt seized

[miliman13]

So FML.
before i drill through, I wanted to consult the council of tuners.

Does anyone see a better solution for me?
I have already tried Pb Blaster + wd-40/Green rust thing can "its new"
I have also tried a torch, but i began to catch my car on fire, so no more of that..

And of course threads are never as much fun unless there's pics.

"side not"- please dont use my thread to beef up your "post" number. im looking for actual responses- Thanks

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this is the replacement, and its part numbers. In hopes this helps others in the future.

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[daplatano91]

When I redid my rear control arms I got the nuts off then used a air chisel to hammer the bolt out.

 

[Insane20]

I have to to that to my right rear. Question though, didnt that destroy the bushing in the arm? If so where did you find a new bushing at?

 

[miliman13]

When I redid my rear control arms I got the nuts off then used a air chisel hammer the bolt out.

well, i have a MALLET, and still nothing, i have also broken a 1/2" trying to spin the bolt.

I have to to that to my right rear. Question though, didnt that destroy the bushing in the arm? If so where did you find a new bushing at?

Thanks for stopping bye, do you think you can re-do your post? I don't understand what you mean.

 

[Insane20]

Ok so you have the bolt that go's threw the bushing. The bushing is inside of the arm. My question is didnt the bushing that the bolt go's threw get destroyed when trying to take the bolt out of it. If that makes seance.

 

[miliman13]

seance.

"sense"

Well honestly I don't know what the condition of the bushing is, i have to 1st removed that bolt.

But as a nice surprise, it turns out i have an LSD rear diff. so something good turned up

 

[Insane20]

Oh im sorry I though u had the bolt removed all ready.

 

[miliman13]

What??, i wish, that's why i came to the forums, still haven't had any luck.

Im thinking of drilling through, I mean if a mallet is not doing it then what will. ?

 

[craig4g63]

What??, i wish, that's why i came to the forums, still haven't had any luck.

Im thinking of drilling through, I mean if a mallet is not doing it then what will. ?

Try Kroil penetrating oil first.

If that doesn't work, I had to cut through the bolt with a sawzall.

 

[Insane20]

You have a torch why not burn it out. If you see flames don't worry that's just the bushing burning. But if your dead set on drilling it I would grab a good set of drill bits, and start with a small bit in the center and just keep increasing the bit size until there is no bolt left. But that's going to take a while.

 

[NWHTanK]

Cut the bolt out with a sawzaw. And replace the bushing set with a prothane kit.

 

[T is for TURBO]

I had to use a cutting torch to get mine out

Cut the bolt out with a sawzaw. And replace the bushing set with a prothane kit.

The prothane kit doesn't replace that bushing

 

[miliman13]

Yeah I wouldn't know were to buy or locate that bushing?? Anyone ? Because if I can locate one then ill burn that mother flower down! But if not then drilling, and paying might work.

Cut the bolt out with a sawzaw. And replace the bushing set with a prothane kit.

I dont think I can access the bolt, as it is covered by the frame and arm.

So who has actually had this same problem? And how did you resolve? I still don't see how a sawzaw would get it out? Even If I could cut it how would that get it out? And should I unbolt the arm from the knuckle or that's not necessary?

 

[smills1840]

This is the way most people do it:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...3-replacing-seized-rear-toe-control-arms.html

 

[miliman13]

This is the way most people do it:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...3-replacing-seized-rear-toe-control-arms.html

this is very helpful, but using this technique, i would have no choice but to buy a new arm correct? or is the bushing/sleeve come separate? i cant tell if its 2 pieces or one solid piece ?

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[smills1840]

You will need to buy a new arm, which honestly isn't a bad idea since you're already working in that area. They aren't super expensive, between $40 and $50 from what I've seen.

 

[Talon7038]

I have slowly replaced all of my control arms because of the same problem. The question is what is your time and energy worth. It is easier to hack them out and just replace them. You will spend hours of time energy and money buying useless stuff to bust it loose when in the end you could of taken an hr all together to just cut and replace to begin with.

 

[miliman13]

You will need to buy a new arm, which honestly isn't a bad idea since you're already working in that area. They aren't super expensive, between $40 and $50 from what I've seen.

cool, no problem doing that, whats the part number for the rear drivers side arm, ?

STM: OEM MITSUBISHI REAR TOE ARM | 95-99 DSM | MR162573 | MR162574

is it this ???? and is that the actual part number or just catalog number?

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[smills1840]

Here's the thing. The arms differ between FWD and AWD vehicles. From what I have found, the below part numbers APPEAR to be for the AWD cars, but I cannot completely confirm this. I strongly suggest doing your own research before ordering anything.

MR162573 is for the LEFT side

MR162574 is for the RIGHT side.

Again, please do some research to make sure these are the right parts.

 

[miliman13]

Here's the thing. The arms differ between FWD and AWD vehicles. From what I have found, the below part numbers APPEAR to be for the AWD cars, but I cannot completely confirm this. I strongly suggest doing your own research before ordering anything.

MR162573 is for the LEFT side

MR162574 is for the RIGHT side.

Again, please do some research to make sure these are the right parts.

you may be right, look above, that is how STM has it labeled.

But i still don't know if it's AWD or FWD it doesn't say ?

 

[smills1840]

That's the same issue I'm running into, because I have to do this same procedure myself. If you search one of the part numbers I posted above on mitsubishiparts.com, AWD is shown as the result.

I'm pretty confident that the actual arm is the same between AWD and FWD, but it's the length of the bushing that differs between the two. I saw a thread showing a nut used as a spacer for the shorter bushing in an AWD car, but I would rather have the correct part to start with.

 

[miliman13]

you and me both, well i searched till my eyes bleed, hopefully someone will point us.

 

[DSM_GSX01]

Yea i dont know if this will work but can try. On a buddys car we had to weld a nut to a bolt cut the bolt to extend it, then we welded it to our bolt we need out.

I got a penile torch that fits in tight spots and used that. I got this at harbor freight.

 

[miliman13]

MR162573 is for the LEFT side

MR162574 is for the RIGHT side.

.

So i called the Mitsubishi Dealer and according to them, the information above is correct for an original AWD/GSX, they used my VIN, to cross reference the part and it came back a match!

But, from the dealer it sells for 57.00 USD, and does not come with a Nylon Nut.{compared to} [STM, sells for 47.00usd with nut]


So, besides the arm and the toe bolt, what else am i missing? is there a rubber insert that is in there, and if so were do i get it, or does it usually come with the replacement ?
Seriously throw me a bone

 

[smills1840]

Not sure what they mean by nylon nut. As long as it comes with everything shown in the picture you posted from STM, that's all you need.