Dragging clutch when warm.

[tips000]

Ok, my clutch is dragging on my 90 awd. It's an ACT 2600 and Has about 20-30k miles on it. I can shift into any gear like buttery smooth sex when the car is cold, but when the car warms up its a bi*** to get into any gear half the time.

I have changed the transmission fluid to about 1/3 synchromesh 2/3 80/90. Didn't help. I did the drag test (rev to 7 k with clutch in) and it pulled me forward a little bit. All trans bolts are tight. It also seems like the pedal is a bit softer than when I first got it. Fluid is a little yellowed but not black or thick. The slave moves freely by hand. Fluid is full and I can't find any leaks, master is brand new and slave is not leaking. It just started happening a couple days ago and it's a pain in the dick driving it in town.

My plan is to bleed at the slave and re-adjust the rod under the dash.
Easy enough right?

The problem I'm having is that I can't figure out how the hell to get a wrench on the bleeder screw!!! I have tried every angle and after fighting it in 10* weather I gave up for the night. What is the secret here?

Is this a normal thing to have to adjust the clutch every now and then?
Is there a way I can figure out for sure If it's the pressure plate without removing the trans?
What size is the locknut on the adjuster under the dash? I have tried 10-13 and couldn't get it to fit but I'm doing it by feel because I'm a 6" 300lb dude.
Any other suggestions? I don't understand why it only causes issues when warm.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Clutch pump up is the problem most likely. you have to get under the dash to adjust your master cylinder rod back.
Proper Clutch Adjustment

Also:

See #4

EDIT:

Forgot to answer your other question. As for the lock nut, I think it's a 12mm. for someone your size you may want to take the seat out to get under there to get a better view of things. It can be a PITA.

 

[tips000]

Is there a way I can take the slave off the trans to bleed it?

Edit: I'm in Michigan and the last two days it has been giving me trouble it has been 40-50 degrees, now it's 15 degrees and my problem is 90% gone!? Wtf?

 

[T is for TURBO]

Two 12mm bolts hold it to the trans. But if you have the stock hard lines, it won't work well.

 

[tips000]

Ordering braided clutch line tomorrow, it's ok to bleed the system with the slave unbolted from the trans right?

 

[T is for TURBO]

you'll have to put it in a vice of some sort to keep the rod from popping out.

 

[tips000]

Ok, I ordered the line it should be here soon, it's been pretty cold up here the last few days and I havnt had a single problem shifting at all?

 

[T is for TURBO]

Ok, I ordered the line it should be here soon, it's been pretty cold up here the last few days and I havnt had a single problem shifting at all?

That's why I think it's all in the adjustment of your clutch pedal. The master cylinder is over adjusted just a little bit too much, and when the fluid gets warm it expands just enough that the relief valve stays shut, which doesn't allow the slave cylinder to retract after you take your foot off the pedal. This leaves pressure on the pressure plate causing clutch drag. This is a very common problem. And since the weather is colder, there is less thermal expansion of the fluid, which might be minimizing the problem.

I think you need to back the master cylinder rod off about 1/2 to 1 full turn.

EDIT: Upon re-reading this, I have it backward. The symptom I described above would cause high clutch disengagement and/or a slipping clutch.

For a dragging clutch, you have to thread the master cylinder rod FURTHER to get more stroke out of the slave cylinder. Also, where does your clutch for sit in the bell housing window when at rest? Left of center(toward the transmission)? Center? or right of center (towards the engine)?

 

[tips000]

It looks to be fairly centered, I still havnt adjusted it. I want to get it bled properly and my line isn't here yet. Thank you for all your help T.

 

[tips000]

Well, an update:

I adjusted it and it feels 100x better, but when I do the clutch drag test it still pulls ahead at around 7k rpm. Maybe I need a shim or something between the slave rod and fork?

 

[T is for TURBO]

Thank you for all your help T.

No problem! I just had my transmission off 3 times because of some back clutch geometry, so I know how frustrating this can be!

Go under the car, pull the rubber boot off of the clutch fork, have a friend push the clutch petal to the floor and make sure that the clutch fork isn't hitting the bell housing. You;ll need to get a good flash light. It's easiest to check with the cross brace removed. If it is touching, you will have to shim the pivot ball. Is it the original fork and ball?

Is there any more adjustment in the master cylinder rod before you start blocking off the bleeder valve?

 

[tips000]

No I'm right at the bleeder on the adjustment, ill check if it hits the bellhousing but I don't think it is because it's centered pretty well and I think the pedal would stop if it was hitting. I will check though.

 

[T is for TURBO]

No I'm right at the bleeder on the adjustment, ill check if it hits the bellhousing but I don't think it is because it's centered pretty well and I think the pedal would stop if it was hitting. I will check though.

Mine was pretty well centered too and it still hit the bell housing

this is where mine was

 

[tips000]

Should there be any play between the shift fork and the slave rod at rest? I could wiggle it a little.

I just installed my new line and am about to bleed it, I was wondering if I should put a spacer between the slave rod and the piston to take up the slack so there won't be any play between the rod and the fork?

 

[T is for TURBO]

How much is a "little slop"? Also, how much force are you using to move it around to get the slop?

There should never be any reason to change the geometry of the slave cylinder or rod. The only time the geometry of the clutch system should be manipulated is when you need to add a shim to either the pivot ball, or between the flywheel and the crankshaft. And that should only be done when you have the proper step height on the flywheel. And the only reason that is acceptable, is because each time the flywheel gets machines, the clutch pressure plate moves further away from the bell housing due to a now thinner flywheel. A shim, either behind the pivot ball OR behind the flywheel, is to bring the throw of the lever system of the fork and throw out bearing back to where is was designed to be. And that is usually about 1mm - 2mm.