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KeelesKustome

15+ Year Contributor
882
17
Dec 29, 2007
Waverly, Tennessee
I have a 98 gsx atuo, with a 6 bolt swap and kiggly adaptwer kit,
Everything has been smooth sailing, and just recently randomly, my car started doing some crazzy shifting.

I'll be cruising along and it'll randomly downshift then jump back into it's original gear.

If you give it WOT it does everything correctly, but when you let off, it'll slam down into a lower gear then jump back into it's original gear as well.

Line pressure is good, fluid is good and changed as well as the filter.
I was under the impression it worked off the TPS so I also made sure it was holding strong in what ever position I put it in.

I'm leaning torward some sort of shift solenoid, but I'm unsure. Have any of you had this happen before?
 
Not sure if end clutches would do that if they are worn or if the TCU could be going bad or throwing a code. My last guess would be a solenoid like mentioned.
 
the end clutches crossed my mind, but it feels more like it's electrical intentional shifting, then it remedies it'sself type deal, not any slippage.

Also: I just noticed, that it seems to not want to shift untill it builds up full line pressure, in any gear at any speed, at any amount of acceleration.
 
I have new data.
When the car is in overdrive and you stomp the gass, it throws the car into neutral untill u let off the gas then it resumes pulling like normal. When you put the car with OD off, the car shifts hard and won't shift till at full line pressure and randomly downshifts when it feels like it. Although when you go WOT with this setup it'll pull like none other. Theirs absolutely no slippedge in the tranny.

I have changed my shift points on link to 8,000 rpm's could this have effected the stock tcu shifting points? heres a 3rd gear pull, my tack showed i was bouncing on 8,000 rpms, when link shows 7800, either way link is obviously overriding the stock tcu shift points. Why would this effect anything ?


Also, can you take a look at my HP numbers andgive me an idea as to what 3rd and 4th gear should be? because i was in 3rd for this run, the numbers i have input, cannot be

Also i just noticed my rpm's were accurate then they drop in a computer type error way, what would cause that ? Whatever it is could possibly be the cultprit for my transmission shifting when it shouldn't, if it gets weird readings like that.
 

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If I had the similar issue with LInk and the RPMs going up and down in the program but they would be at consistent idle in the car. I believe it also might have given me some minor issues tuning wise by maybe giving me false readings elsewhere? So, I deleted the whole program and reinstalled it off the website. Been working fine since...
 
so you basically just uninstalled it and reinstalled it?
 
The rest of the questions still remain if anyone has any ideas or past issues the same as mine.
 
New issues same problem.

I now have a tranny that seems to not want to shift to third gear, if it does it's random and sparatic, same for overdrive. When you put it in overdrive you have to rev it up past 3k and then let off the gas for it to shift into it. Every now and then it's like it sticks between gears and it feels like someone put the ebrake on, but is fine once it shifts. No burnt smells at all. Fluid at the right amount, no loss.

What the heck is going on?
 
TCU, valve body, or solenoids - swap in a known good TCU and see what happens.
 
Okay i want to perform this mod from kiggly. it'll elimintate the possibility of bad tcu.

Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.com

The only diodes i can find are 3amp at radio shack, I see it says a minimum of 2 amps.3-Amp Barrel Diodes - RadioShack.com
Am i correct in thinking the more the amps the more the preassure it builds?
I've done alot of reading and have concluded our transmissions under WOT only puts around 130-150 psi through the tranny, But causing full preassure gives around 300 psi. Is the amprage in the diodes controlling the ammount of voltage=psi?

The rendering seems to show that the diodes also go on each wire connection correct?

This seems to comepletely remove the TCU from the equation, and in my circumstance is not a big deal, That is what i want, as i am accustome to manual valve bodies.

I have also read that you can turn a screw inside the valve body to also up the preasure, but i have not found any good refrences for this, if anyone has any i would greatly appriciate this.

Also why can't the actual button on the gear selector become or should I say stay the switch that causes overdrive to kick in? It seems logical and fairly simple to me.

On a 2g, it is not like pictured on that website, it has a plug directly on the neutral saftey switch. here are the wires comming out of that, and they seem to be a different color combo.
What wires need to be cut and discarded on this? and which wires need to be spliced into the orange and yellow solenoids?
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Their is a seprate set of wires that go to plugs on the front side of the transmission, that seem to be similar in colors as some from the reffrence photos, but if thats the case when all the wires are counted, their seem to be more wires then on the 1g.
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Okay i am at a hold up, I need help figuring out what i adjust to create more line preasure?

also, why won't this sensor go back into it's port on the housing? was i suppose to line something up before putting it back on?

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I don't understand why it won't go back in, it's almost like something needs to move so the little metal piece can go in it or...

i think could have contributed to my issues.
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I seriously need guidance ASAP, before i have to reassemble my transmission. How exactly do you adjust the valve body pressure using my photo reference above?

And please take another look at this log one more time. At time stamp 11.881 I am still under WOT when my tps voltage drops, and the reading for Throtpos also drops, when it should not have.

Could this be a sign of a tps going bad, and also be the cause for my random downshifts?

the log is on the very first post
 
okay, I can see how i could have confused you with so much of a post. Lets now forget the majority of that post and start fresh as i have.

I just did a complete fluid change and a ipt end clutch pack kit, as mine were warped.

Their was minimal shavings or glitter in my old fluid. so i put a new filter in and called it a day. I felt like the work it would take to open more line pressure on the solenoid wasn't worth the hassel until i could afford a shift kit. So i opted out removing everything. I started the car in neutral and added fluid as all the old was pumped out, and i also added at the end ipt's friction modifier black bottle of stuff.

I made sure the level of fluid was accurate on level ground and let it run for at least 20 min checking it over and over.

I took her for a drive and right off the bat it down shifts sluggishing my car down, so i have to manually put it in 2nd to go, with over drive off it is not shifting into 3rd. The only way i can get it to shift into 3rd, is to go from second to about 3,000 rpms, knock the shifter into neutral let the rpms die down then push it back to drive, it then engages firmly.
As for over drive it works similar, from second gear it'll free rev for a second I'll let off the gas and it'll shift to overdrive skipping third completely unless i do the above mentioned method.

I've ordered the roadsure shift box to see if this can manually override the tcu, if it's a bad tcu. Any thoughts?
 
Okay, i have one that came off the 3000gt throttle body i can use. Every part on it has the same part numbers, so I'm sure it'll be fine.

okay, i installed the new tps, and it does seem to hold an accurate voltage much better.

although the tranny still is shifting the exzact same. except 2 new symptoms.

now when driving at 40mph when it doesn't want to shift from second, it'll shift to third for a breef moment and then back into second, and this goes on for ever.

sometimes when i stop and shift into any gear and reverse, it'll shift supper hard, sometimes it won't, same for driving , I figure i won't know exzactly what it is untill my roadsurge box arrives and i can change gears manually with no tcu involved.

okay, i installed the new tps, and it does seem to hold an accurate voltage much better.

although the tranny still is shifting the exzact same. except 2 new symptoms.

now when driving at 40mph when it doesn't want to shift from second, it'll shift to third for a breef moment and then back into second, and this goes on for ever.

sometimes when i stop and shift into any gear and reverse, it'll shift supper hard, sometimes it won't, same for driving , I figure i won't know exzactly what it is untill my roadsurge box arrives and i can change gears manually with no tcu involved.
 
Now if the trans is acting like it is stuck in 2nd gear then that would be the tcu causing that problem.
Does the car seem realy sluggish when you go to pull out ?

By the way i have a couple TCU's for 2g's if you would like to try one out
 
I'm leaning toward a bad tcu, as i have all along, as i think it's electrical.

No real way to test that theory without getting the shift box, or another tcu.

I guess pm what your looking to get for one of your tcu's. Not sure when the shift box is going to arrive.
 
Okay, I've installed the roadsurge box, it is working correctly. Except when i go to shift to third while just cruising or wide open, it doesn't go into third, it stays in 2nd, when i shift to 4th, it jumps into 4th weird, where it will free rev them when the rpms fall it'll shift into it. when i downshift from 4th to 3rd, it has the same issue as before where it feels sluggish, as if the ebrake was pulled, giving no power. So i downshift to second, and it'll get up and go again.

Am I correct in thinking I have a bad shift solenoid? or a dirty sticking solenoid?
 
obviuosly it's not the tcu or the tps. as i eliminated both of them.

I am considering doing the wire mod from kiggly, and selling the roadsurge box, as I'd rather just use my gear selector.

please help me figure this out.



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Okay here is my understanding, please correct me if I am wrong.

The gear selector is still connected to the neutral saftey switch (grey thing on left)
Their is no modification needed for that.

From the NSS, i will solder the diodes directly to the new wires going directly to the solenoids in the transmission in the order the picture shows. In doing so i will add 2 wires in the cab for a switch to activate 4th gear, which will only work if the selector is already in 3rd correct...?

Does the car still use the TCU for this or is it now eliminated completely?

---------- Post added 06-25-2011 at 11:58 ----------

also my wire colors are different, from the NSS
the colors i have are.
1.big red. blue stripe
2.big black. white stripe
3.yellow. red stripe
4.yellow
5.yellow. black stripe
6.white. black stripe
7.red. blue stripe
8.blue. red stripe
9.black. yellow stripe
10.black
11.black. red stripe

i do not have a red with yellow stripe,


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How do I know which wires go to where? the diagram above is for a 1g not a 2g.

Also does the blue wire. red stripe just go hot from the battery or is their a different one it splices into?

I have 2 extra plugs I'm going to make this out of in the photos below, that way if something goes wrong, i can easily still drive my car with minor modifications.
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here is the Nss plug andd the above mentioned wire colors, the clip on plugs are facing upward.
I noticed on the solenoid plug, the grey actually plugs into the orange and the orange plugs into the grey for some odd reason, To use the plug, I assume i should just swap the two correct.
 

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Okay here is my understanding, and what worked for me.

The gear selector is still connected to the neutral saftey switch (grey thing on left)
Their is no modification needed for that.

From the NSS, i will solder the diodes directly to the new wires going directly to the solenoids in the transmission in the order the picture shows. In doing so i will add 2 wires in the cab for a switch to activate 4th gear, which will only work if the selector is already in 3rd.



also my 2g wire colors are different, from the NSS on the 1g
the colors i have are.

1.big red. blue stripe -not needed
2.big black. white stripe - not needed
3.yellow. red stripe -goes to solenoids
4.yellow - goes to solenoids
5.yellow. black stripe - goes to solenoids
6.white. black stripe - not needed
7.red. blue stripe - not needed
8.blue. red stripe - 12v power wire needed
9.black. yellow stripe - not needed
10.black - ground needed
11.black. red stripe - starter trigger wire needed




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I have 2 extra plugs I' made mine out of just in case something went wrong.
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here is the Nss plug andd the above mentioned wire colors, the clip on plugs are facing upward.
I noticed on the solenoid plug, the grey actually plugs into the orange and the orange plugs into the yellow for some odd reason, Make sure you swap these around and don't get confused.

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Any questions please ask as I am very willing to go into more detail wherever you made need any help.
After all we are here to help each other, not tell each other to search.
 

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