Any way to check the shift fork w/out dropping the tranny?

[napalm]

is there any way to check the shift fork without dropping the tranny?



edit: if the slave is off, should there be so much play in the fork that it flops from one side of the hole to the other?

 

[BLINKY619]

why is there something going on with your shifting... or clutch engagement

 

[Lofty]

This is the best I can do for you.

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The release bearing arm and the pivot ball will wear over time. Replacing both is one way to deal with the problem. Adding a washer or two under the arm is another way. DO NOT ADD A SHIM TO A NEW FORK AND BALL.

When the transmission is first installed in the car and just bolted down to the motor, this is the time to check the wear on the arm and ball. Checking it right that moment will save hours of hassle later! Look at where the arm protrudes out through the square boot on the front lower bell housing. With the arm pushed over towards the passenger side so that the release bearing is just touching the clutch, the arm should be either in the center of the square hole or towards the driver's side of center line.

If the arm is sitting off towards the passenger side, you need to pull the transmission back out and add a washer or two. This gets things back in line. If you don't, the hydraulics in trying to take up all the extra slack, will push the arm over and bottom out on the inner bell housing. If you are fighting clutch adjustment problems on an existing clutch install, get under the car and check this out. If you remove a crossmember to see it better, you can pull off the rubber boot and look in the bell housing with a flash light while an assistant pushes on the clutch pedal. You may see the arm hitting the inner bell housing.

If you are having problems with a clutch adjustment, don't be tempted to try to lengthen the clutch slave cylinder rod. It may work for a few symptoms (worn pedal assembly mostly) but it is not the right way to fix things. In order to take up additional free play, it puts constant pressure on the release bearing.

 

[napalm]

sorry for the lack of update, just got around to messing with it last night.

thanks for the pic lofty, as soon as I slid under there I saw it, how elementary

how much play should there be in the fork? I took the slave off and the fork just flops back and forth. You can pretty much wobble it freely up down left right, doesn't feel like it ever engages anything.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Horse shit!

Case and point:

1gb, new ACT FW, new ACT 2600 PP and a new ACT Street Disk.
New OE pivot ball, new OE clutch release fork and a new OE TOB.

He installed the transmission with the impression, "Everything is new, I shouldn't have to shim the pivot ball", notion.

Well, guess what, the Clutch Fork was over centerline more towards passenger side.

EVERYTHING IS BRAND NEW. SO HOW ARE YOU GOING TO TELL US NOT TO SHIM THE PIVOT BALL?

His clutch pedal assembly in brand new too.

We had to shim the pivot ball about .100" with 3/8" ID washers.

Reinstalled the transmission and now the clutch fork sits just like that picture.

He has yet to drive his car since Jack is rebuilding his T-Case at present.

Do the test Lofty mention.
As Lofty mentioned, do not use an extended slave rod, that's just retarded!

 

[napalm]

if the slave is off, should there be so much play in the fork that it flops from one side of the hole to the other?

 

[Lofty]

It's done that for me on all my cars.

 

[napalm]

well that's good news then


slave and mc are on, running by the hardware store on the way home to get a piece of tube to bleed it tonight, fingers crossed.