Project

[justin_5585]

Well, after almost a year out of the game, it is about time to tear into the old dsm and get her back on the road. I just ordered a spec stage 3 for my car, and I have a brand new fidanza flywheel to put in. I have read the vfaq on the install, and have a decent idea of what it entails. I will also be replacing the cv shafts during the install. My questions are as follows. Is a spec clutch supposed to have the same step height as an act? or is it like a stocker? Should I shim the pivot ball? What else should i replace while in there? I would hate to leave anything out if I'm going to have the tranny off. Thanks,

-justin.

 

[20psimitsu]

Shim the pivot ball and change the throw out bearing to avoid engagement issues. Might as well do the rear main while your in there.

 

[justin_5585]

What about balance shafts? Would it be any easier with everything out? Should i replace the fork?

 

[Ludachris]

I would buy a new pivot ball instead of shimming the old one and might as well buy a fork while you're at it. That's just me though.

 

[Dream On]

New fork and ball, rear main, SS clutch line if you want, possibly slave and master (check them, they're known to fail after installing a heavier clutch and having a lot of miles on them), OEM throw out bearing, longer flywheel bolts, oil pan gasket/rtv. These are just what I did on mine, you don't have to do it all.

 

[1stGenRocks]

What about balance shafts? Would it be any easier with everything out? Should i replace the fork?

balance shaft elimination is definately easier with the engine out of the car.

 

[Dream On]

BS elimination is probably no easier with the trans out of the car.

 

[justin_5585]

So from what I understand, by buying the new pivot ball, I won't need to shim it? Or will I shim the new one as well? And what is the benefit to longer flywheel bolts? Also, should i trust a throwout bearing that comes with an aftermarket clutch, or go OEM? Just want to take care of all of the loose ends to prevent doing the same job twice. Thanks,

-justin

 

[Dream On]

You shouldn't need to shim a new pivot ball as it won't have any slop to it since it's new. The longer flywheel bolts are used because the aluminum flywheels are a little bit thicker than the stock one, so you can thread more of the bolt into the crank. Some use the stock bolts with red loctite and are fine, but I didn't want to take the chance of my flywheel coming off. FP sells the kit. If you get it, do NOT use the pressure plate studs though...
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219692
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=231292
The Spec TOB shouldn't be used, get an OEM. It's only about $25.

 

[justin_5585]

Awesome, thanks so much to everyone for the info. Just to recap, I'll be using an oem throwout bearing, longer bolts for the flywheel, buying a new pivot ball, and finally a new fork. Final question, should i look into an aftermarket fork, or just stick with oem? Thanks,

-justin

 

[Dream On]

I don't know of any aftermarket forks. I think taboo used to make it maybe, but I haven't seen or heard much from him.