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Clutch enguages at the tip of the pedal pressure

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byebyev8

20+ Year Contributor
344
0
Jun 17, 2004
kenosha, Wisconsin
My 2g awd has a act2100 and when I first got the car it enguaged right off the floor. I got the master and slave cylinder replaced and it hasn't enguaged right since. I've tried to adjust the clutch but no madder how far down or up i go it still will enguage right at the tip of the pedal.



While I'm driving if i even rest my foot on the clutch pedal it will disenguage. THe clutch pedal also feels spongy but I've Tried bleeding it. Any idea's
 
Only thing I can come up with is did you bleed it correctly? You may want to take it to a tranny shop or if you have a friend with more knowledge of trannys check it out.
 
At the risk of sounding redundant, are you sure you've adjusted the clutch pedal adjustment rod per these instructions?

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

I don't mean to insult, I just can't think of a reason as to why manipulating the adjustment rod won't result in a change in the pedal engagement height... If you double check and are in fact adjusting the right rod but still to no avail, you could try visually tracing the path of the hydraulic line while having a friend modulate the pedal, though the firewall to the master/slave cylinders to the clutch fork, that may help you find a problem that has gone overlooked...

Good luck, let us know when you figure out the problem.

Scott
 
Yes I've adjusted the Rod many times I don't think thats the problem. But now the clutch is starting to slip. It seems as if the clutch isn't fully engageing.


Ps. Right now there's about a half inch of play between the clutch engagement and disengagement.
 
Are you master and slave cylinder ok? Also it takes about a half hour of straight bleeding to do it properly.
 
There is one other thing you can cheack its the 2G Pedal "Pump Up" on the same link two posts above.
 
ya I checked that too Today I'm going to try bleeding it more to see if that helps. I really hope thats the problem.
 
Yes make sure you bleed the master and slave properly. Some say to bleed the master first then bleed the slave by pushing in the slave rod but everytime I tried this it let air into the system. I found it works best to bleed the slave first, by pushing in the rod, then bleed the master/whole system with the clutch pedal. Then adjust as per the RRE link above. If you have the clutch starting to engage about 1/3rd the way off the floor this should allow more then enough room to prevent pedal pump up as long as the top (cruise control switch) isn't adjusted to low, not allowing enough pedal travel.
 
1. Make sure you attach a hose to the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in fluid so air doesn't get sucked back in before you're able to close the valve.

2. Just went through this with another local member. The bleeder valve has a very short range between the opening of the valve and the threads of the valve stem. Open the valve slowly and stop as soon as you see the slave retract, another 1/8 turn will allow fuild to leak out of the threads as well as air back into the system, kinda defeact the purpose of step one.
 
OK I bled the clutch properly and now it slips so I'm thinking the clutch might have just been going out. But The clutch grips perfect sometimes. It also seems to grip alot better after driving the car for a whlie.
 
Do you have a SS clutch line. If not there only $25 shipped and they make a big differance. If you have an after market clutch the stock line may not be able to handle the pres.
 
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