First time at the track ever, FWD tips?

[Liz93EclipseT]

Okay, so I'm making it to the track for the first time ever.
I just finally finished my car and got my license so it'll be my first time racing a typical car there.. My dad had me race in the junior dragsters back when I was younger.

The only problem is it's going to be a really cold track probably.

I've never launched my FWD, let alone raced it really as it only has like 1,000 miles on the rebuild. I'm going to take it and do some practice launches.

However I'm just wondering what tips/tricks/other advice there is from you FWD people. I really want to get a 1.8 60foot

I have BF drag radials brand new to use that my dad said is the same kind his friend's honda got a low 11 second run out of with a 1.7 60 foot.

I hear some people say to feather the clutch out of the hole, or should I try to go ahead and use launch control and slip it like an AWD? I'm going to see tomorrow how it does with the launch control lowered to only 4,000.

Any tips / advice would be appreciated! Thanks!

 

[habitatguy187]

You'll probably need to lower the launch rpm to around 3500rpms. I found that 3300 was my sweet spot, but that was on street tires with an open diff. I also found that slipping the clutch A BUNCH was the best way to get out of the hole, but again, my setup was quite a bit different than yours. Either way good luck and post up your results! Good or bad.

 

[black_gst]

IT depends on you power level every car is different and launching on a track with or without slicks is completly different then on the street... go with what you feels good and start there... no matter what you will see where you can improve... personally an LSD is then next thing on my list... then slicks

oh and i highly doubt you will see 1.8 60' with an open differential

 

[Liz93EclipseT]

Well I went ahead and practiced a bit tonight.

At first I kept bogging going into 2nd, and having issues with the beginning of first.
Then I did about a 10 second long burnout, and it hooked hard.
4500+ launch control just is a 1st gear roast as I was afraid of.
4000 though hooked great.

I raised the boost to 18psi and still managed to hook, so I'm excited.

Hopefully it'll be the same at the track.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I could see you getting a 1.8 60' (or at least close) with drag radials. My best with street tires is 2.2.

Quote from the VFAQ:

The Correct Way To Launch Your

All Wheel Drive T/E/L
Hold the RPM at 4500 while sitting on the line, and then slip the clutch out very quickly while adding throttle at the same rate.
Credited to: David Buschur [email protected]
Front Wheel Drive T/E/L
Well, there's been some talk recently about how to get the FWDs to hook-up at the line. Aside from spending big bucks converting to an AWD system, there are a few things you can do to get somewhat respectable 60' times at the track. Here's what *I* think (cocky college kid mode ON):
First of all, it's very important to have tires with tread on them (as I found out last weekend :-( ). Seriously though, the tires you choose to run are EXTREMELY important. Throw out those GT+4's and get a nice set of performance tires. It seems that as far as street tires go, the Dunlop SP8000's, and Goodyear GS-C's are pretty sticky tires that will give you decent all-season performance. I currently have some Dunlop D40M2's, and although they lasted a long time and I've had numerous 2.0-2.1 60' times with them, they just break away too easily. I'm currently in the process of getting myself some BFG R1 tires, but I don't expect them to last over 10K miles on the street. After more than 100 runs, I'm pretty confident that sub-2.0 60' times are just not possible with your typical "street" tire. I'll see what both R1 and slicks can do at the ShootOut! While I'm on the subject of tires, inflation is key to getting the power to the ground. At the track, I've experimented with tire pressures in front from 10lbs to 30lbs. If the pressure is too high, you'll just sit and spin and hop. If it's too low, you'll lose optimal contact with the track, and it will slow you down at higher speeds. I've found that the best pressures are around 15lbs in the front, and 55lbs in the rear (reduces drag). Now we get to weight transfer. What you want to do is keep as much of the weight in the front of the car when launching. I'm sure you've noticed that the front wheels seem to lift up under hard acceleration as the weight "transfers" towards the rear of the car.
What I have done is to install GAB adjustable struts/shocks and Eibach springs on my car. The GAB's can be adjusted to virtually prevent weight transfer, while the springs lower the cars center of gravity. I'll be cutting a coil or two off of the front springs to give the car a "raked" attitude to further reduce transfer in the coming month. I've found that the optimal setting for the GABs is 8 in back(full stiff) while leaving the front struts on setting 1(full soft). This seems to let the tires bite into the track more as the front suspension gives a little, while the rear doesn't move. Another benefit of these suspension upgrades is that I have NOT had wheel hop since putting these on. Another thing you can do that I have not tried, is to experiment with "air bags" in the rear shocks. These clever little things let you inflate them inside of the coil to stiffen up the rear shocks even more. They're affordable too if you can't get the GABs. Needless to say, take EVERYTHING out of the hatch (spare, jack, seats, carpet, tools, etc...).
Finally there's the actual launching technique. Believe me, his takes a LOT of practice! Here's what has worked best for me (I think): When you get to the line, bring the RPM's up to 3000. I don't believe that dialing the boost down is the answer to getting a clean launch, rather it's careful use of the gas.
When you launch, DON'T let the RPMs jump up on you, and DON'T take off at full throttle in first gear! I don't know about you guys, but if I get a bad launch, I'll smoke the tires all through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
OK, the light turns green. Now when you feel the clutch start to grab, keep it at half-throttle and gently slip the clutch until it's all the way out, preventing the tires from smoking(keeping it around 3500). Now you have to be very careful with the throttle. It takes some practice, but after awhile you can feel when the tires are on the brink of spinning. Keep depressing the gas SLOWLY as you gain speed, keeping in mind when you feel that your tires are about to let loose. It's very easy to get anxious and floor it, but resist the temptation.
The 1-2 shift is critical to your success at the track. If you've launched right, you should be able to get through 1st without spinning until around 6000. When you go to make this shift keep in mind that if you just floor it, I guarantee that you'll spin all through 2nd and you'll have to get off the gas and bog down. Also remember not to go completely WOT in 1st gear. Any spinning that you're doing when you make the 1-2 shift will just make for a sloppy spinning 2nd gear.
As you go into 2nd, keep the RPMs steady at around 4000. Slip the clutch out until the tires bite, then start giving it some serious gas. Don't go WOT until you're sure that the tires are biting well. At around 6200 RPMs (any higher and you'll start spinning again if you have modified your car), shift into third quickly and don't let the RPMs drop below 4500. Give it full throttle as soon as you let the clutch out.
After you've gone into 3rd you should be set to "speed shift" into 4th in a few seconds (don't take your foot off the gas, but shift VERY fast). The optimal shift point from 3rd to 4th seems to be about 5500 for the stock turbo, and around 6800 for the 16G. I don't know if I've cleared this up, or if I've just further complicated things. It's hard to describe how the car should "feel" as you near the point of spinning. After a few runs you'll see what I mean. Slipping the clutch and careful use of the gas is very important, so I'd also heartily reccomend a CFDF clutch if you're going to do this.
Credited to: Jim McKenna [email protected]

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

I could see you getting a 1.8 60' (or at least close) with drag radials. My best with street tires is 2.2.

Quote from the VFAQ:

The Correct Way To Launch Your

All Wheel Drive T/E/L
Hold the RPM at 4500 while sitting on the line, and then slip the clutch out very quickly while adding throttle at the same rate.
Credited to: David Buschur [email protected]
Front Wheel Drive T/E/L
Well, there's been some talk recently about how to get the FWDs to hook-up at the line. Aside from spending big bucks converting to an AWD system, there are a few things you can do to get somewhat respectable 60' times at the track. Here's what *I* think (cocky college kid mode ON):
First of all, it's very important to have tires with tread on them (as I found out last weekend :-( ). Seriously though, the tires you choose to run are EXTREMELY important. Throw out those GT+4's and get a nice set of performance tires. It seems that as far as street tires go, the Dunlop SP8000's, and Goodyear GS-C's are pretty sticky tires that will give you decent all-season performance. I currently have some Dunlop D40M2's, and although they lasted a long time and I've had numerous 2.0-2.1 60' times with them, they just break away too easily. I'm currently in the process of getting myself some BFG R1 tires, but I don't expect them to last over 10K miles on the street. After more than 100 runs, I'm pretty confident that sub-2.0 60' times are just not possible with your typical "street" tire. I'll see what both R1 and slicks can do at the ShootOut! While I'm on the subject of tires, inflation is key to getting the power to the ground. At the track, I've experimented with tire pressures in front from 10lbs to 30lbs. If the pressure is too high, you'll just sit and spin and hop. If it's too low, you'll lose optimal contact with the track, and it will slow you down at higher speeds. I've found that the best pressures are around 15lbs in the front, and 55lbs in the rear (reduces drag). Now we get to weight transfer. What you want to do is keep as much of the weight in the front of the car when launching. I'm sure you've noticed that the front wheels seem to lift up under hard acceleration as the weight "transfers" towards the rear of the car.
What I have done is to install GAB adjustable struts/shocks and Eibach springs on my car. The GAB's can be adjusted to virtually prevent weight transfer, while the springs lower the cars center of gravity. I'll be cutting a coil or two off of the front springs to give the car a "raked" attitude to further reduce transfer in the coming month. I've found that the optimal setting for the GABs is 8 in back(full stiff) while leaving the front struts on setting 1(full soft). This seems to let the tires bite into the track more as the front suspension gives a little, while the rear doesn't move. Another benefit of these suspension upgrades is that I have NOT had wheel hop since putting these on. Another thing you can do that I have not tried, is to experiment with "air bags" in the rear shocks. These clever little things let you inflate them inside of the coil to stiffen up the rear shocks even more. They're affordable too if you can't get the GABs. Needless to say, take EVERYTHING out of the hatch (spare, jack, seats, carpet, tools, etc...).
Finally there's the actual launching technique. Believe me, his takes a LOT of practice! Here's what has worked best for me (I think): When you get to the line, bring the RPM's up to 3000. I don't believe that dialing the boost down is the answer to getting a clean launch, rather it's careful use of the gas.
When you launch, DON'T let the RPMs jump up on you, and DON'T take off at full throttle in first gear! I don't know about you guys, but if I get a bad launch, I'll smoke the tires all through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
OK, the light turns green. Now when you feel the clutch start to grab, keep it at half-throttle and gently slip the clutch until it's all the way out, preventing the tires from smoking(keeping it around 3500). Now you have to be very careful with the throttle. It takes some practice, but after awhile you can feel when the tires are on the brink of spinning. Keep depressing the gas SLOWLY as you gain speed, keeping in mind when you feel that your tires are about to let loose. It's very easy to get anxious and floor it, but resist the temptation.
The 1-2 shift is critical to your success at the track. If you've launched right, you should be able to get through 1st without spinning until around 6000. When you go to make this shift keep in mind that if you just floor it, I guarantee that you'll spin all through 2nd and you'll have to get off the gas and bog down. Also remember not to go completely WOT in 1st gear. Any spinning that you're doing when you make the 1-2 shift will just make for a sloppy spinning 2nd gear.
As you go into 2nd, keep the RPMs steady at around 4000. Slip the clutch out until the tires bite, then start giving it some serious gas. Don't go WOT until you're sure that the tires are biting well. At around 6200 RPMs (any higher and you'll start spinning again if you have modified your car), shift into third quickly and don't let the RPMs drop below 4500. Give it full throttle as soon as you let the clutch out.
After you've gone into 3rd you should be set to "speed shift" into 4th in a few seconds (don't take your foot off the gas, but shift VERY fast). The optimal shift point from 3rd to 4th seems to be about 5500 for the stock turbo, and around 6800 for the 16G. I don't know if I've cleared this up, or if I've just further complicated things. It's hard to describe how the car should "feel" as you near the point of spinning. After a few runs you'll see what I mean. Slipping the clutch and careful use of the gas is very important, so I'd also heartily reccomend a CFDF clutch if you're going to do this.
Credited to: Jim McKenna [email protected]

Holy long post batman!!

 

[Jay's_GSX]

Just don't launch pass 3500k you will not go anywhere.

 

[fatt6903]

Slipping the clutch work best for street tires and DR's. I hit 5300rpms and dump it and normaly get 1.8ish 60-foots. All depends on your car and your right foot. It takes time, Ive been racing FWD's for 7 years and I still have a hard time with certin tracks. I dont start spining the tires till about 7k in 1st then they hook in 2nd for a second and the Nos breaks them loose again. I need bigger tires. Also the rim width make a diffrence

 

[Liz93EclipseT]

Hey all, just to update this thread

I'm extremely happy with my car.
1.7 60ft 12.501@113mph with me hitting the rev limiter in 3rd

I found that I was hooking good as well, my best run ended up being with the launch control at 4500.

My best 60 foot though was a 1.6!!!!! I couldn't believe it! It felt crazy good when I launched it too, that was with the launch control at 5k. It was the run after my 12.5 - however I blew my turbo->manifold gasket on that run so I let off as soon as I heard it.

 

[habitatguy187]

Good job! Those are great 60's for a fwd on drag radials! What kind of LSD do you have in it? Also what tire pressure did you end up running?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

That is awesome! What psi were you running in your BF drag radials?

 

[Liz93EclipseT]

I have the RIPGRIP LSD from Tre

I was running 14psi in my BFG's

 

[John H]

damn 1.6 60' FWD first time at the track with the car, thats fairly impressive! congrads! I run the BFG's on my awd and they are great esp with the pressure down a little, but moving on to some QTPs!

 

[black_gst]

good job!