NA Block in a Turbo Engine

[Aikouka]

The engine on my 91 Talon is "sick." The block was damaged and it cannot be bored to use oversized pistons. But before I get to the topic at hand, I have a quick quesiton.

Is it possible to use sleeves on the 4G63? I've looked over the net for sleeves, and I found nothing for a Mitsubishi, period. If sleeving is possible, my problem would be solved much faster.

But, now onto the main topic at-hand. I have a 1994 4G63 NA engine and I am planning on replacing the 1991 4G63 block with the naturally aspirated one. Fortunately, I should be able to use the original crankshaft. I know the NA block does not have oil squirters, but is there anything else that makes them different? How much difficulty would adding oil squirters (and any other part that the NA does not feature) to the NA block? If you know where I can find any article or documentation on this (I haven't been able to find articles on using different blocks), that'd be of great assistance as well.

Thanks,
Will K.

 

[Big Woo]

Yes you can use a NT 4G63 block, but you have to be willing to run the engine with out the oil squirters, or have the Nt block machined to accept them.

I bigger problem that I see is that your 91 motor that is junk is a 6-bolt motor, and the 94 NT motor is a 7-bolt motor, and the cranks and rods are not interchangable between the two

Sleeves are available for almost every engine in use today check with a local shop for cylinder sleeves. However it will most likely be cheeper to but a good used block, than to sleeve yours.

This thread does not IMO belong in the extreme tuner forum

 

[ItsStockOfficer]

sleeves will cause likely cracks between cylinders during heavy loads, you just can't safely remove the amout of nessecary material.

 

[Aikouka]

After removing more parts from the engine I discovered something interesting that shows what the cause of the engine's demise was.

http://www.gamingotaku.com/~gotaku/Imag0082.jpg

Just look at the right side of the engine, and I must say, I'm not a mechanic but I know that a hole like that isn't natural.

So sleeving is out of the question. The only option is to use the 7-bolt and just buy a 7-bolt flywheel for the car.

Here's another nice picture to show the damage (piston head):
http://www.gamingotaku.com/~gotaku/IMAG0077.JPG

And one more question about preferences. When removing the engine, would you recommend removing the transmission or just leaving it on? The body seems to be blocking the way pulling it straight up using an engine lift. But the idea is to use two engine lifts and literally take parts from one engine and build it onto the other, and drop the completed engine back into the car, reattach everything.

Thanks, and sorry if the post seemed out of place. I read a lot of the other engine questions in this forum and they seemed around the same level of difficulty (work-wise, not necessarily question-wise)