what do you think? polished cylinder head

[DSM's 4 life]

I am using this 2g head on my next build with a 1g block. I think I am going to go back and get all the spots I missed once I finish up with the intake side. was just wondering what you guys thik only other person I saw do this was jafro mobile on youtube.

 

[finesse49ers]

Looks good. I'd possibly be interested in doing that if my cylinder head was an eyesore, fortunately it's not.

 

[DSM's 4 life]

Believe it or not that took me about 10 hours and I did not get all the pits from the casting out. I will have put 1,500 into it after machine work, cams, valves, and springs when its finished and I don't want it to look like a stock head at first glance.

 

[jayson427]

looks alright but for me i wouldnt do that since i have alot of other things polished under the hood. wouldnt some of the casting you took off be for structural stregnth since aluminum heats up and cools down differntly. maybe not tho.

 

[FearlessNick]

Why I love owning a shop. Get cost prices and I get to have all the tools to do this. I love my glass beater. Haha

 

[007jimmy]

Why I love owning a shop. Get cost prices and I get to have all the tools to do this. I love my glass beader. Haha

Fixed.

OP, head looks good. I love polished aluminum but i dont have time to go as far as to polish the head.

 

[FearlessNick]

Fixed.

OP, head looks good. I love polished aluminum but i dont have time to go as far as to polish the head.

Thanks. Haha. Dumb phone.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Won't the reflectivity make it overheat?

 

[gixrman]

I would say most of your cooling comes from water rather than air. If it was an air cooled motor this would be a bad idea. You want the most surface area.

 

[talonalex92]

I worry about dulling, and oxidation. Worse than it does already without the polish on it.

 

[nickk90]

I worry about dulling, and oxidation. Worse than it does already without the polish on it.

Yea it looks great its just gonna be a lot of work to maintain the shine. I wouldn't want it on a daily driver.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I would say most of your cooling comes from water rather than air. If it was an air cooled motor this would be a bad idea. You want the most surface area.

I've heard about V8 guys running into cooling problems due to overly chromed engines. I think it's more about reflection than convection.

I'm sure it will be great though, I was just playing devils advocate.

 

[JacksonAuto]

Chrome is a heavy coating which acts as an insulator holding the heat in. A polished, reflective surface will aid in cooling.

 

[Miasma]

looks alright but for me i wouldnt do that since i have alot of other things polished under the hood. wouldnt some of the casting you took off be for structural stregnth since aluminum heats up and cools down differntly. maybe not tho.

I think the casting he is referring to is the excess mold casting. When mitsubishi was producing these cars supply didn't meet demand so the excess casting from the molding of the heads was a result. Removing excess casting from the inside of the head takes time but is a good idea, because over time it can chip away circulating more metal flakes through your engine. I'd only say to do this if you were really picky

Looks good.

 

[Total Eclipse]

Looks awsome! I thought about doing that to my head, but considering the amount of it that is ACTUALLY seen, and the work to maintain polished aluminum, decided not to. Props for taking the time to do it, have fun keeping it polished though.

Nate

 

[buhay6]

I'm sure it will be great though, I was just playing devils advocate.

I 'd at it.

I worry about dulling, and oxidation. Worse than it does already without the polish on it.

He could always clear coat it, I've done a couple engine parts on my supra when I did the head job on it and the clear coats held up fine. Best part is the first heat cycle on the engine cures the clear coat really really fast.

 

[Jafro]

Nice work! How far around it did you go?

The longer you spend sanding, the less time you'll spend polishing. I took mine to 1200 grit before breaking out the polishing wheels. It's important to protect the steel parts of the head like the oil gallery plugs, valve seats, studs, etc... when wet sanding because they'll rust very quickly. Dry it thoroughly.

Most clear coats tend to yellow. All of them will dull the natural shine of polished aluminum. Every time the engine's at operating temperature, the clear coat gets tacky and absorbs any dirt or grime in the air. There tends to be a lot more of that in an engine bay than you'd find elsewhere. Long term affects of clear coating can be problematic even for the high heat varieties. I would advise against clear coating the head.

Polished parts can be a beast to maintain. You'll stop driving the car in the rain and snow entirely because of the work it creates. I'd recommend a polymer-based coating like ZoopSeal. Once you've polished a part, the process really never ends. ZoopSeal doesn't leave residue so if you need to modify the part or re-polish it somewhere down the road it doesn't create a new problem. It's waterproof, and resistant to everything except abrasion. You'll regret not using it if you skip it.