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1G head I bought off clist, said the timing was set incorrectly and bent the valves.
There is a notch at the top of one of the cylinders(pictured best I could) and I wanted an opinion on whether its machinable, or sell it/ part it out. The 3rd picture really shows it, it sticks up 1/4".
Also I cant tell if theres some damage on one of the oil galleys or its just bad casting.
It looks pretty deep, but try taking it to a local machinest they would be able to tell you in a few seconds. Doesnt look to serious, I had a worse one and the machiest was able to get it out, but he told me to use a Felpro HG with copper spray to make sure it seals correctly, because a Multi layer HG only has an o-ring type thing going around the cylinder, but the felpro seals back much further.
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-Sean Corcoran
1991 Talon AWD TSI
Some replacement valves, the cheaper ones, are sometimes a 2 piece design, that means the head is fusion weld to the stem, making the valve brittle at the weld.
Now, would you want to be at 8k RPM when the head pops off? or for that matter at 2000 rpm?
As long as your current valves have "6T" on the heads run them!
Those valves look like the SS valves from engnbldr on ebay. They are actually good valves. Alot of people on the link forum have good reviews on them. I have a new set sitting here and about to try them out.
Want to update and ask a question before I go to the machine shop-
I stripped the head down and im about to bead blast it and pretty much all the valve guides are cracked. I want the machine shop to resurface the head and seat the valves, so should I have them order new guides or should I order them and bring them, and either way what brand should I use?
As a side note you were right bogussvo the valves were two piece aftermarket ones and you could clearly see the welds
Want to update and ask a question before I go to the machine shop-
I stripped the head down and im about to bead blast it and pretty much all the valve guides are cracked. I want the machine shop to resurface the head and seat the valves, so should I have them order new guides or should I order them and bring them, and either way what brand should I use?
As a side note you were right bogussvo the valves were two piece aftermarket ones and you could clearly see the welds
They can probably get guides cheaper than what you will find them at the parts store. I would just have them buy the guides. As for cleaning the head i recommend just using some purple power degreaser and clean it up. I hate the idea of media blasting anything with oil passages. Yes you can brush the passages out but there is always the chance of debris left in the passages. If you do decide to blast it than i recommend using walnut shell media instead of glass, sand of steel.
Any particular reason not to use glass? Thats what I have right now.
Now the magic question, what do you think a basic valve job, them installing the guides and valves(ill install everything else) and resurfacing should cost?
thank you all very much for the information so far also, bogussvo's guides have been amazing. I think I read all of them - im not kidding - Im not even doing half the stuff he wrote about and I read them haha
The glass crushes and can become lodged in the passages in in crevices in the head. Later if not all of it is cleaned out than it can become dislodged and get into your oil and bearings. I can get them 100 percent clean with purple power so i have no need to bead blast them anyway. Here are some things that i cleaned with it.
Thanks Bryan Ill pick some of it up on my way home tomorrow and try that first and see the results. The reason I was kinda set on media blasting is because im also stripping my engine bay and repainting it, so I figure ill just blast everything coat it while I have the chance.
And thanks again bogusSVO - I read all those guides like 2 nights ago haha - and more of them you wrote.
I should probably start a build thread or something- look at all these goodies that came today
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