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Cylinder Head & Short Block: 4G63 cams, valvetrain, pistons, rods, stroker kits, 6-bolt swaps, hybrids, etc. Read this Forum's Strict Guidelines.

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Old 10-25-2010, 02:52 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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Think I'm a victim of crankwalk. Yay.


Starting today, my motor is making a pretty loud knocking noise but seems to go away if I press in on the clutch. So I'm THINKING I have crankwalk. I have a spare 95 block with a good crank. Figured I'd pull that crank and throw it into my 98 motor. Now I have 2 questions about that.

1.) Do I just order standard bearings?
2.) Do I need to replace the rod bearings as well or just reuse those?

Pulling my motor and tranny tomorrow to inspect and see what the problem is. Thanks.


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Old 10-25-2010, 02:54 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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I would redo all the bearings because you have it apart.


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Old 10-25-2010, 02:58 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Yeah, I was kinda thinking the same thing. But what about size? Standard or what? Or do I just need to plastigage?
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:17 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Plastigage it before you go buying any bearings. Then you'll know for sure before you maybe waste money on bearings that don't fit.

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Old 10-25-2010, 04:19 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Okay, anyone know if a 95 crank will go into a 98 block okay? I'm looking on MAP's website and the ACL bearings depend on what year and the 95's have a different part number than the 98's. Crap, I hope it'll work.
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:43 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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When doing a crank make sure the crank jounals are really clean with no marks of any kind.Also make make sure the block is taken apart and cleaned remove all oil plugs and clean out all oil passages.One piece of bearing material would destroy any new bearings or crank you install.In my opinion get a reconditioned crank.Maybe a little more expense same amount of work with better results.
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:17 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Well, the crank I have is still in the block. And the bearings still attached. I don't wanna rebuild the whole thing if possible because I plan to do a stroker build when I have the money. Right now, I don't. I'll have to inspect the bearings on my motor and see what they look like. I'll be pulling the oil pump of course and inspecting to see what they look like. I just need this motor to last awhile longer. I have money for mods, but not enough for a whole rebuild.
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Old 10-26-2010, 05:47 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8s_are_slow View Post
I have money for mods, but not enough for a whole rebuild.
Mods are no good if you don't have a solid foundation to build on. Like building a house on mud.

If you do in fact have an engine that's crankwalked, the entire oiling system is contaminated with metal particles that WILL cause a premature failure if you put it back together. The only way around this is to rebuild the block. You don't need to go all out, but the block needs to be cleaned and inspected (sometimes when the crank walks it will actually eat into the block and destroys it), mic the cylinders and pistons, deglaze the cylinders and replace the rings and bearings. Really not that much more work than replacing the crank and bearings.


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Old 10-26-2010, 10:19 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Well, now I'm not sure if it's the transmission or what. Speed limits around town are pretty low. But I noticed that in 2nd gear it gets REALLY loud. I can hear it a little at idle but if I press in on the clutch, the noise goes away. It almost sounds like rod knock. But not sure if anything in the transmission would make that noise or not. it's not very loud at idle. I'll post up a video when I get home. On my droid at the moment though.
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:23 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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whats your crank endplay? your throwing crank walk out there but if pushing in the clutch is as far as youve gone diagnosing this you could be wasting money and time
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:32 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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I don't know honestly. Had planned to pull it into the shop at school but they wouldn't let me....just like everything else I wanna do there. Dunno why they even call it an automotive class. Hell, it might not be crankwalk. Just a guess. I've never had it. Just read some post about people hearing noise and it going away when pushing in on the clutch. And mine does that. I don't have much free time cause I have school and work. So pretty aggravated that I can't take it to my school that I'm paying to attend, just so I can even check it out.

Okay, got this on my Droid on the way to my parent's place. Had a check engine light come on but didn't have my laptop with me to verify but probably a random misfire I keep getting. Goin out to check that in a few but here's the vid.



Now I do have a 4 puck unsprung disc and I could maybe see it being the problem if it did it in all gears but it's mainly in 2nd. Although the clutch did slip for the 1st time on my way home at around 55 mph. If I have to swap in my awd tranny, I think I'm gonna go ahead and get a Quartermaster and be done with it.

Last edited by v8s_are_slow; 10-26-2010 at 11:39 AM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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Old 10-31-2010, 05:12 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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I have a 95 tsi ram street strip 6 puk and fidanza lightweight flywheel. About 1500 miles on full rebuild crank was in bad shale had it all redone and the last week I have noticed clutch having to go further and further to floor and it's harder an harder to get into gear.pryed my flywheel to the tranny side put mic up there and I got .013 Internet says .0055 is in spec guess that's crank walk huh? Why can you do to prevent this as much as possible I have heard of revised block shimming crank. Or exactly how involved is the 6 bolt swap? Thanks for your help and time

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Old 11-01-2010, 02:29 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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v8s are slow.....that kinda sounds more like rod knock thank crankwalk....

Best way to look for crankwalk "without" needed to rip anything apart.....
Start car up....Have a 2nd person push the clutch pedal in while you look at the harmonic balancer/crank pulley....If you see it move you have crankwalk....

How do I know? My car had crankwalk when I sold it...you could start the car up WITHOUT the clutch pressed in....but if you try to start it up WITH the clutch pressed in it would crank..crank..crank...not start....at least in my case..


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Old 11-01-2010, 06:48 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Well, I ordered a QM clutch at the end of last week. Pulled my tranny out and my clutch and flywheel still look great. Clutch should be here at the end of this week, beginning of next. Throwing in my awd tranny with a vce until I can complete my awd conversion. Hope there's no other problems but I'm sure the tranny is an issue. When I backed it out today and let out of the clutch pedal, the car jolted REALLY hard. I rebuilt it a few months back but needed 3 transmissions to make one good one.....and I didn't have the best of parts. But the noise sounded like rod knock so it really threw me off. Hoping it's just the tranny cause I have my awd tranny ready to go in as soon as I get my parts. I'll post an update when I have one. Thanks guys.

Looks like this could be a reason I was hearing so much noise. Got my vce from Shep today and was able to put my awd tranny back together. Fwd tranny is now scrap. Thanks for the help though guys.



Last edited by v8s_are_slow; 11-02-2010 at 12:02 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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