Car Has Been Sitting, WD-40 On Cylinder Walls?

[romeen]

Two months ago an injury forced me to stop working on a project that I was just finishing up. I had just cleaned the cylinder walls to absolutely squeaky clean and replaced the head, manifolds, etc. when I was forced to abandon the project until now.

Before putting on the timing belt and turning the crank do you guys think it's a good idea to try to get some WD-40 on the cylinder walls? I think I might be able to get creative with some small vacuum hose on the nozzle.

 

[BogusSVO]

if you oil the cylinder walls well before the build and the engine has been covered up.. you should be fine as is

 

[romeen]

Unfortunately, there is absolutely no oil on the cylinder walls. I did the opposite and used brake cleaner until the paper towel was coming up with no dirt. The car has been in the garage the entire time with paper towels stuffed down into the plug wells. It has also been one of the wettest summers on record.

 

[manny correa]

i would like to know this aswell. as im in the same boat, but my 92 laser has been sitting 2years and i wanna know what i can do as far as not damaging the rings, and cleaning up the cylinders. dont want to have low compression because of stuck rings etc..

 

[MidShipCivic]

So you want to prime your engine ? Just make sure your cylinder bores are clean that's all.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/286235-priming-oil-pump.html#post151432942.

 

[snowborder714]

I would slowly try and crank it to see if you have any build up. When we tore Eric's engine down and tried to crank it by hand months later, it wouldn't go very far because of small build up. We finally just pushed through it, hoping to not damage anything. Thankfully we didn't. The cylinder walls were then coated with WD-40 and the engine was turned over by hand a few times every so often to make sure it was still easy to crank and lubed up. I'd say it couldn't hurt anything for you to do it.

 

[JacksonAuto]

If there is rust on the cylinder walls it will only take a few revolutions to damage the rings. The rust will create gouges in the face of the rings which will create many small leaks. I would pull the head and then clean all of the rust off the cylinder walls. Then push the pistons out, clean everything up really well and put it back together. The amount of rust is going to depend on how humid or moist your garage was. If there is pitting you'll want to hone the cylinders again.

 

[sniver]

Jacksons' right, thats it the proper way to do it. Especially if you have high hopes for the motor. However Depending on your goals, you might be able to get by with out all that work. no doubt your rings will get scratched. I had a 90 n/t that was seized from rust on walls. filled up the cylinders up with diesel, let it drain through couple times, and then when it was all drained down,4 days later, I could turn it over by hand. Ran fine after, though I'm sure it lowered the compression a bit. *and don't forget to change the oil a couple time to rid all that diesel and rust dust.

 

[romeen]

I decided to try turning it just to get a feel for what might be going on (did not spray WD-40). I was surprised when it immediately started to turn with almost no resistance. In fact, I don't recall it ever feeling this smooth and easy to spin. However, the t-belt is not on and the plugs are out.

Thanks for the responses guys.

 

[ziggo0]

I had a 7 bolt motor that sat for 3 years...buddy needed a engine quick so we pulled his out, dropped that bottom end in (without disassembly/reassembly), primed the oil pump via a power drill, cranked it over for 10 seconds, rest for 30, 10 seconds, rest for 30, it fired right up...compression a week later was 170 across the board. Lucky? Probably.

 

[2gdsm_nc]

Had my 2.4 sitting for 9 months without the head on it in a trash bag on the stand with clp in cylinders. turned it over once a week or so and re lubed. It was still perfect when the head went on. just keep an eye on the block surface, if you had it cut.