stripped timing belt teeth

[snakeyes711]

I stripped the teeth off the belt at the crank pulley yesterday. I noticed some extra noise by the belt area, and seen it was a bit chewed on the inside. It ran fine, I was sitting at idle at a light, and the engine just cut off. I rolled it back down the hill backwards into a parking lot, took of the cover, and had my son turn the engine once. I seen the cams try to move, then stop the crank turned over once, and I yelled whooa! I hope the valves are fine... I just put a new kit on in February. Contitech kit with pulleys, and all. There were a few spots where its worn a bit in the middle also. I'm going to get a belt today, and re time it.

If it starts up with the valves knocking, its time to pull the head.

new valves, guides, and seals. Rings, resurface piston walls, full race bearing kit, and new gaskets....

 

[snakeyes711]

BTW I didn't know were else to put this thread...sry.

 

[BogusSVO]

well it sounds like you will be pulling the head unless you got very lucky.....

you may want to read these over....

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341218-how-change-valve-guides-4g63t-head.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

 

[snakeyes711]

I'm hoping so, it shut off at idle. I can imagine what would have happened if the light turned green or I was riding at 3K when it happened.

If so I got a machine shop so I can resurface the head. I just am dreading pulling the head off, and if I have to I might as well keep going. Kind of like what Forest gump did when he went running. If I gotta pull the head I might as well do this, and while I'm doing that I might as well do this too. If I'm doing that I might as well keep going. Till I've ran clear across the whole engine.

Well, I got it apart today. The belt was stripped in one area about 12 teeth or so where the crank was. There was a few other spots where the belt was missing teeth too. The cover was covered with fiberglass too. I cleaned it up, and got a gates belt installed. It fired up fine. I was shocked, I just knew the valves would be all messed up. But there isn't any worse sounds then before. It did let loose at idle thank God!

 

[16G1G4G63Talon]

man there is no probobly to it....the haed is going to have to come off. Im sure you bent some valves, just to what extent and how many is the question. Ive been over this myself and i bent 6 valves and also my oil pump locked up( not cause of timing belt but cause of low oil condition when i got the car). I would just go ahead and do the balance shaft elimination while you have the belt off and get rid of that problem. They say you should just change the balance shaft belt anyway when you change the timing belt but get rid of the headache and do away with it once you find out if ## valves are bent and what not. Trust me, you will thank me later

no bent valves? you got extremely lucky

 

[snakeyes711]

question, should the oil pump gear turn freely? because there is some resistance to turning it....? The pump works pressure is there.

 

[toofast82]

question, should the oil pump gear turn freely? because there is some resistance to turning it....? The pump works pressure is there.

Yes there will be slight resistance, but you need to be sure that it is in the correct phase. If its not, the balance shaft will be off causing nasty vibration When you turn the pulley without the belt on it, it should drop back counter-clockwise, then its the right way. If it drops clockwise, it is off and you need to turn the pulley again until it drops counter.

 

[bastarddsm]

Nobody believed me in the thread about contitech belts. They are junk. Mine only lasted 1k. Put a $50 goodyear gatorback belt on and it lasted untill i killed the motor 30k later.

 

[snakeyes711]

Yes, thanks toofast. I can definitely tell its in phase now. bastarddsm, I didn't see your thread. I did the kit in Feb. whole kit new pulleys, and water pump. I thought the contitech belts were well known good. It was oem spec, and all. I can tell this belt is way more stout then the contitech though.


Toofast, if it was a little tough to turn the pump gear, I didn't loosen the bolt however. Is it possible that the rear shaft bearings are shot causing it to be hard to turn?

 

[bluegs03]

Nobody believed me in the thread about contitech belts. They are junk. Mine only lasted 1k. Put a $50 goodyear gatorback belt on and it lasted untill i killed the motor 30k later.

Yea it sucks that you had to learn this the hard way, but why not just get a mitsu oem timing belt they are like $65 now + shipping. Good luck with the bent valves

 

[badabing33a]

SnakeEyes, what all did you find out? Just reading along. Idk why the Oil Pump Sprocket has so many problems but my Pump seized up on my 91 Talon shreading a section of teeth on my timing belt. The timing jumped and then destroyed my bottom end. But the head didnt have a single bent or broken valve. My sprocket didnt turn at all. There should however be slight resistance to it. Hope you got your DSM up and running!

 

[snakeyes711]

It is up, and running, and runs better then ever. The new belt is way better then Contitech's. I'm sooo lucky this happened when the car was at idle, if it was only a few minutes later, or earlier it would have been catastrophic. There is a small increase in valve noise. I plan on either bying a new head or rebuilding this one soon. As for the oil pump gear, it was stiff when I tried to turn it. It may be time to replace, I was going to do all new gaskets there anyway. Including the gasket on the filter housing, and oil pan too.

The oil pressure is the same as the day I bought it though, the valve noise is mostly on start up when its cold other then that I also found the timing belt pulleys were worn out, they were not even 8 months old? Maybe because of the cheap 110 dollar timing kit I bought.