The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

7 Bolt Crank Pictures.... Wtf?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Harriz801

15+ Year Contributor
187
1
Jan 12, 2005
Holland, Michigan
I am in the process of getting my car back together. About a week ago I tore down the motor and discovered a crank in the pictures below. At first glace I was absolutely pissed.:mad:

But as I keep looking at this crank it almost looks to me that someone did this themselfs. It almost looks like this has been pressed into the end of the crank for some reason? Just wondering if there would be any logical reason for doing something like this or I will be taking this back out of the crank. I took a picture next to a 6 bolt crank that I have and this is what made me assume that this was pressed into the crank.

Let me know what you guys think!!!
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Both my 7 bolt 4g63 and 4g64 cranks have something like that, except yours looks like it is pressed into the crank further than mine are.
 
Those are in there to center the torque convertor on the automatics, someone probably split it to try to remove it.
 
My old 7 bolt and the new one I bought from Topline do not have that insert. As you say it was installed as an afterthought for some reason. Bad thing is it probably creates some imbalance. The Mitsubishi manual shift transmissions do not use a pilot bearing. I wonder if it is some kind of mod for a pilot bearing?
 
If I remeber correctly, the insert is for the torque converters or flexplate on automatics.

Yours is all jacked up though.

Yes, that is what I unpleasantly encountered on a shortblock I once swapped. I'll also agree it was pushed in a lot further than it should be. I bet if that was a manual car, someone couldn't remove the ring (because the shortblock was from an auto), so they just pressed it in until it was flush so they could put the flywheel on.

*scratch that* you can't, the bevel inside is flush with the metal ring. Perhaps they took a sawzall and cut the excess until it was flush.
 
Thats what I figured when I looked at it, that it was pressed in by someone. So now the question is, do I get this out somehow or do I just leave it in the crank? The crank is currently at the machine shop getting polished.

BTW: Thanks for all the reply's guys!
 
Either way it needs to come out. If it is an auto, get a new one. If it is a manual, leave it out.
 
Could you remove it with grease like you would a pilot bearing? It's hard to tell by the pictures if this would work.
 
What I would do is try a slide hammer. If it doesn't work by itself use a torch with it.
 
since the crank is at the machine shop ask them to get it out, mine would do it no charge if they were doing other work to it !
 
Okay well maybe I'll run it by them and see if they would. Since the flywheel surface of the crank has a bunch of grind marks in it, do you guys think it would be a good idea to have that re-surfaced so I have a smooth surface to bolt the flywheel to?
 
Housegsx...Whats the grease trick?

I copied this from another site. I never thought this would work until I did it to remove the pilot bearing when I had my C4.

First, I found a deep well socket with an O.D. slightly smaller than the hole
through the pilot bearing. I then filled the inside of the socket with duct tape
and also wrapped the outside of the socket with duct tape, so that the
socket just fits snugly into the bearing. I then filled the void in the end
of the crankshaft behind the pilot bearing with some cheap wheel bearing
grease.I placed the socket into the pilot bearing hole and hit the end of
the socket firmly with a hammer until I felt the socket hit the crankshaft.
Each time I hit the socket with the hammer, the hydraulic action of the
displacement of the thick bearing grease pushed the pilot bearing outward a
bit. Once the socket hit the crankshaft, I removed the socket and refilled the
void behind the pilot bearing. I repeated this process until the pilot
bearing was free.
 
This thing WILL come out in 2 seconds if you do this:

Go get like 3 ft of toilet paper. Pour a cup of water all over the tp to get it soaked. Stuff as much TP as possible into the center of the bushing. Then take a socket that is slightly smaller than the insider diameter of the bushing, put it on an extension, and hammer the extension/socket into the center bushing. The toilet paper will push the bushing out in seconds because of the pressure.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top