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Cylinder Head & Short Block: 4G63 cams, valvetrain, pistons, rods, stroker kits, 6-bolt swaps, hybrids, etc. Read this Forum's Strict Guidelines.

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Old 11-04-2008, 07:56 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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Cam degree-in degreeing-in degreeing


puff


Last edited by treebonker; 09-23-2009 at 06:37 AM.

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Old 11-04-2008, 08:39 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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fantastic, this needs to be submitted as a tech article in the engine section ASAP. If it at all possible, finding links for people interested to buy the products you mention would be awesome (I noticed the summit pinwheel).


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Old 11-30-2008, 10:15 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Great write up. I had to degree my cam(sohc) but i didnt have the ati balancer. I had some 14mmx1.25 threaded rod, nuts and the supplied adapters with the moroso degree wheel and this is what i cam up with
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Old 12-14-2008, 09:02 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Was this submitted to the tech articles? I didn't see it.


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Old 12-14-2008, 09:40 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSMTriad View Post
I like seeing this kind of info but I'm new to this stuff.

1)When is it necessary to degree your cams?

2)What's the benefits of doing this? Or is it just necessary to do with aftermarket cams?
Why was this left out?

1. Introduction

Talk to any cam grinder, engine builder, or racer and you’ll find overwhelming agreement that “degreeing-in” a camshaft is a vital step along the route to optimum engine performance. At first that may seem strange because “degreeing-in” a cam pertains to checking the accuracy with which it was manufactured.

The purpose of degreeing a cam is to insure that the cam is phased correctly with the crankshaft, per the cam manufacturers’ specifications. You’re insuring that valve opening and closing events are in accordance with specifications, regardless of the cause. Actual valve opening and closing events are influenced not only by accuracy with which a cam was ground, but also keyway position in the crankshaft, crank timing sprocket, dowel pin hole position in the cam sprocket, and accumulation of machine tolerance also play a major role.

It is the exception, rather than the rule, that a cam may be out of phase, but this should be established to insure an accurate performance baseline or point of tune. There are however 4G63 Eclipse cam manufacturers that make it a rule rather than the exception. But nobody cares as long as it's cheap and you got that cool lump-lumpity-lump idle.

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Old 12-22-2008, 02:37 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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Awesome write up, mind if I print this out to have in the garage when I assemble my motor?
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Old 03-05-2009, 07:50 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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I finally got enough post to reply to this. Thanks for taking the time to write all this down. I enjoyed reading this. But I have a few questions. Will dialing in have any effect on stock camshafts? Also, do you think it is possible to do this procedure with the engine in the car?


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Old 03-05-2009, 09:18 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Very nice write up... Now cut and paste the pertanant info to a tech article...meanwhile i'm saving the webpage to my hard drive
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Old 03-05-2009, 09:49 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Nice, Thanks! I've always wanted to know how to do this.
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:01 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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This is excellent info.

Why doesn't anyone sell a kit with 2 solid lifters, or something pre-assembled to do this with? I think an enterprising individual should add some DSM-specific parts to that generic degreeing kit and make some $$$

Until then, does anybody have links to some decent inexpensive kits (that you have experience with) ?


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Last edited by Calan; 06-16-2009 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:15 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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nice guide, but looks like its easy to do with the engine out, how would you go about this with the engine in??

im looking to get cams, and have a shop that will do them, might print this out.


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Old 08-10-2009, 11:11 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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Why is it so important to adjust lifters to zero lash? Is it to ensure that the entire valve assembly moves up an down exactly with the cam? If this is the case, why worry about adding just the right number of shims? Why not just add a bunch of shims to ensure that the lifter is constantly pressing against the cam lobe?

And finally, where can I find instructions on removing/installing springs and retainers? (Interest for both that light feeling spring and for future upgrades on springs)

Fantastic write up. Haven't come across a post of this caliber in a while.


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Old 08-12-2009, 05:36 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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When you remove the inner spring and shim it, are you preventing the lifter from compressing at all? If so, how do you turn the motor (where the cam lobe ramps up)?


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Old 08-12-2009, 05:39 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Same as before, except now the opening of the valve will follow the cam profile precisely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by No_Skillz View Post
When you remove the inner spring and shim it, are you preventing the lifter from compressing at all? If so, how do you turn the motor (where the cam lobe ramps up)?


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Old 08-12-2009, 06:54 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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Ok I think I've been thinking about this the wrong way...

So the purpose is to make sure the lifter is totally secure, so that the rocker has a solid point to pivot against and the springs/retainers/valves move 100% with the lobe?


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Old 08-12-2009, 07:05 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No_Skillz View Post
So the purpose is to make sure the lifter is totally secure, so that the rocker has a solid point to pivot against and the springs/retainers/valves move 100% with the lobe?
Exactly....Can't think of a better way of putting it.


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Old 08-12-2009, 07:10 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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Are there any negative effects of running a modified lifter like this? Don't they need to be compressed for oil to flow/splash on the head internals?


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Old 08-12-2009, 07:13 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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You don't want to run them... just use a couple while degreeing the cams, and then put your stock (3g ) lifters back in.

I don't have the links handy, but there are several threads floating around here that talk about the negative effects (or at least the lack of any benefit) of running solid lifters in our motors.


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Old 09-30-2009, 11:08 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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I'm not sure what happened to the original post, but here it is for reference:
4G63 Camshaft Degreeing


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Old 09-30-2009, 11:59 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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Thank you for the updated link.


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