rebuilding motor in 1g...

[asd_gst]

ok so my car runs ok but it could run alot better. the car has 147,000 miles on it. I've had the car since april this year. So i have no idea what all this motor has gone through. I am trying to decide what motor to go with a 2.0, 2.1, or 2.3. I want a motor that will be good for a DD but will also lay down around 400whp. i plan on getting a PTE 6162r or PTE6262r. i want something that will be able to run at least around 8500 rpm but ill probably never take it past 8000 rpm. What brand pistons should i get? im looking at getting either Wiseco or Mahle. running around 8.5:1 C/R, with some 280 cams. should i get a main girdle brace? i might run nitrous down the road too. What rods would be better? Pauter X beam. Carrillo i beam or MAPerformance Ultimate Duty rods? ill be getting a Balanced Rotating Assembly, ACL Race Series Main and Rod Bearings, or should i get stock bearings? im getting a short block from MAPerformance and the head from them too. what valves would be better? SI Nitrided, Manley, Ferrea 6000 Series, or Supertech Nitrided. springs? Manley, Crower, or SI Dual? the head will be ported and polished to open it up and smooth things out just for added power. and should i keep the stock guides or Ferrea bronze guides?

 

[My1GLaser]

If you are planning to rev it to 8 or 8.5k, I would go with a 2.0.

I would look at 272 cams or the FP... equivalent. 280s are a bit much for that HP goal.

I personally chose Wiseco b/c of the pw clearance and the less likelihood of piston slap.

H beam rods would be sufficient IMO.

ACL race bearings are perfect.

I chose Ferrea 6000 & Manley springs/retainers.

Bronze guides wear out quicker, so it is more important what your goal is for the motor IMO.

On a side note, pay attention to the quench area you have in your motor during the build. A search will pull up the explanation of what it is and why its important. With head/block machining & MLS HG, the CC dynamics can change excessively and cause your motor to be prone to knock if special attention is not paid to the quench area. Mine is great at .045" and I can run 21* timing on 9:1 CR with 11.7-12 AFR on pump gas with 0 knock.

 

[asd_gst]

If you are planning to rev it to 8 or 8.5k, I would go with a 2.0.

I would look at 272 cams or the FP... equivalent. 280s are a bit much for that HP goal.

I personally chose Wiseco b/c of the pw clearance and the less likelihood of piston slap.

H beam rods would be sufficient IMO.

ACL race bearings are perfect.

I chose Ferrea 6000 & Manley springs/retainers.

Bronze guides wear out quicker, so it is more important what your goal is for the motor IMO.

On a side note, pay attention to the quench area you have in your motor during the build. A search will pull up the explanation of what it is and why its important. With head/block machining & MLS HG, the CC dynamics can change excessively and cause your motor to be prone to knock if special attention is not paid to the quench area. Mine is great at .045" and I can run 21* timing on 9:1 CR with 11.7-12 AFR on pump gas with 0 knock.

how much boost are you running? and i want the 280 in case i deside to make more power, im kinda wanting to build the motor to handle alot more power then ill be running incase i decide to want more power or i get a awd then ill use the motor to its fullest

 

[havoc742]

You should look at a different turbo. The 6162 is a bit much for your stated goals. With your stated goal of around 400whp with the recommended 2.0L you would enjoy the performance of quicker spooling turbo more than the 6162.

I would recommend taking a look at one of these turbo's FP18G-6SL2, FP20G-6SL2, FP Green, PTE SCM3227 or 3231 or 3427, Bullseye S256 or S258, or a 30R. All are more than capable of hitting the 400whp mark and still have enough balls leftover to push you close to or above 500whp.

Check out this page to see a wide selection of turbos and there HP potential. EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

You should also search the forum for more threads on what turbos other people are using and what kind of power they are putting down. Remember on a built motor with front mount and at least an extrude and honed intake manny, fuel upgrades and a DSMLink you can do more with a smaller turbo. Look at pneumo running an 11.516 on a 14b. Guaranteed he's pushing around 400whp.

 

[asd_gst]

400whp is just a starting goal, like i said i want the set up to be able to handle alot more power, 400whp is a more realistic goal but i would really want to be pushing around 500+

edit: also i want kinda a bigger turbo for top end and so it will be a little bit lagy but not to lagy due to im driving a fwd so if i have a turbo that spools real fast ill get bad traction. i know its hard to build a nice motor and have good traction with fwd

 

[havoc742]

The turbo's I listed above have seen and are more than capable of 500whp with the proper supporting mods.

 

[asd_gst]

yea but im sure they will spool real fast on a built 2.0 which is why i want a larger turbo for some lag, i really want a pte just i cant really find any good flow charts

 

[havoc742]

The S258 (part number 200100-3 ExtremePSI.com) with a .70 or .76 hot side or the 30R with a large A/R hotside would give you the lag you want for launch. The 30R, if you went BB, with a .63 A/R would work also.

Check out this thread (dsmtuners.com) for info on the FP Red. This guy is also a GST. The turbo is easily capable of 500whp and with a large A/R a good FWD turbo for street/strip apps.

Don't forget good tread. You probably already know that tires make or break a FWD at the strip.

 

[maperformance]

Feel free to give us a call and we can make some recommendations for you sir, after all that's what we're here for!

Chris Carey

 

[asd_gst]

what about a hx40 pro? would this be a good turbo for my goals?

 

[bluegs03]

That depends, i mean that thing is a beast! it can easily support 600+ hp and a few reports of around 700 if your just looking for 400-600 hp go for the hx35 that is cheaper and will get you there.

 

[BoredDSM]

Go for a 400-500hp turbo if thats your goal. A larger turbo is harder to street and pushing any more than 500whp range you're most likely going to need meth injection, possibly race gas, or something to keep the charge temps lower. Either that or risk detonating your new motor. From what i know the mahle pistons have a higher silica content so they are more prone to detonation. Save what you can on your turbo and spend the rest on suspension.

 

[My1GLaser]

how much boost are you running? and i want the 280 in case i deside to make more power, im kinda wanting to build the motor to handle alot more power then ill be running incase i decide to want more power or i get a awd then ill use the motor to its fullest

25-26 psi. I did the same thing on my build. I waayyy overkilled my motor for an 18g because we always want more power.

Look into DSMonster's FWD mods for traction if you are interested. He is quite good at putting the power to the ground with his FWD and helped me get a good understanding about what was needed to make my FWD hook. My Laser was FWD and I was already getting better traction with prothane mounts, caster adjustment, energy suspension bushings, wider tires @ 22-25 psi. There was still a bit left to do that would get good results before I got an LSD.

If you need top end and are FWD planning to rev high with a large turbo then I would def think about sticking with a 2.0. The torque on a stroked motor wreaks havoc on FWD traction from what I understand and it would spool the turbo quicker.

 

[asd_gst]

yea im keeping the motor a 2.0 im going with wiseco 8.5:1 pistons, maybe eagle rods not sure about the rods yet, im keeping the stock crank, as for the turbo im just going to wait till i get the new block and head in the car get it tuned see how much power it'll put down then it will be easier to pick a turbo to see how much turbo ill need for my boost addiction