Quick Revving question about my recently "built" block

[KPEclipse]

Hey all...
As some people know I'm finally planning on getting my car back tomorrow!!! After this nightmare of a summer, good lord...

In any event, I also plan on doing another build soon, and hopefully picking up a junked 1g and restoring the whole car with my dream block in it...

But my question is this. The block that I just put in my car is a 6bolt. Built with ARP headstuds and mains, but most importantly 1g big rods and 2g pistons. The head is a stock 2g head. The turbo that Im using on this setup is a b16g, and hopefully soon I plan to move to an e316g on external gate.

With those bigger 1g rods, can I rev the car higher? I mean I don't think this car will see the track EVER AGAIN (I'm scared of it, thats where I blew it up in the first place) but when I'm on the street dicking around or if I ever get the confidence to take it back to the track, should I just keep shifting up by the redline or can I take it a little deeper? And will it help @ all to do such?

Thanks in advance for all your help.

KP

 

[mach4g63t]

You could probably take it higher worry free, however, you won't see any additional power from it with only a 16g, stock cams, and intake manifold.

Also, from your pictures, your BOV Looks dumped. If it is, recirculate it.

 

[turbo90gsx]

Its the top end (head/valve train) that really allows higher rpms, displacement and stroke are the other factors. These stock engines can ussualy go past 8k with not very many issuses. Stock cams and intake manifold really die out after 7500 so I wouldn't rev much past that.

 

[Defiant]

Rod strength isn't the issue. Oiling failure and subsequent bearing failure is. DSM motors aren't really meant to be super-high revving engines, and especially not with balance shafts running at twice crank RPM. Yes, you can pull the balance shafts, but when the engine and its oil supply was designed, they were doing so with those shafts in place. Taking them out doesn't change the basic oiling design, and hogging out the passages in the front of the engine only does so much.

 

[KPEclipse]

My bov is recirced now, that pic is from a while ago.
So when/if I go to a built head, I can take it up higher?

So basically the car can't supply enough oil up that high for that long, and thats probably why I spun a bearing the first time shifting the car @ the redline @ the track.

7500 should be good, I just guess I have to make sure that I have enough oil up there to not throw ANOTHER rod.

 

[jrohner]

It will probably hurt your acceleration more than it helps it to run more than 7 grand. I've tuned 2 Evo 3 16g cars, mine the peak hp of 414.8 is at 5500-5600 rpms; my cousins car, with less done to it (stock cams & intercooler) was 327 at 5700-5800. Mine broke 400hp from 4800 to 6350; his broke 300hp from 4700 to 6700. The reason my peak is at a lower rpm than his is probably since my cams make it so my turbo can't keep up (I cannot get more than 22-23psi at peak hp)

Next time I go to the track I'm actually going to try shift before 7 grand and see if it helps or hurts me.

If I run my boost at only 18psi, it FEELS like it pulls pretty good to 8 grand, but why run that low of boost just to be able to rev higher AND be slower? The sound of high rpms can make your car seem faster when you're revving it out, but it's actually slower. You just won't be making power at higher revs -- I would not be 'afraid' of higher rpms hurting something because I did hit 9700rpms once a couple years ago when I miss-shifted racing someone.