Brian Crower Crank anyone?

[v8s_are_slow]

Just wondering if anyone has used this crank at all. Looks just like the racing crank from Magnus but half the price. I'd love to get something like this with some Groden rods for a built bottom end. Throw on a BR 20g and call it good for a fast revving, fast spooling, quick car that's fun on the street Too bad this crank cost like $1400 but guess it's better than $3k from Magnus.

Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: DSM :: Engine :: Cranks :: Brian Crower :: 6-Bolt Crank

 

[blcknspo0ln]

That looks like a work of art, but I'm not sure if I'd want to be the guinea pig here.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Well, it looks the same as the Magnus one but I'm not sure if SBR is posting up the correct one.

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Don't see anything that looks like it on the Crower website though under the 4G63 section, although the crank I see there looks the same as Magnus's lower priced billet crank.
BrianCrower.com - Brian Crower - BC - Mitsubishi Elipse / Eagle Talon - 4G63
Magnus crank

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Wondering if SBR is posting up the correct crank. Either way, if it's correct, that thing looks like it'd cut thru the oil like butter. Probably better off just getting a FFWD butcher crank though for the money. Hmmm....

 

[bluegs03]

Well, it looks the same as the Magnus one but I'm not sure if SBR is posting up the correct one.

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Don't see anything that looks like it on the Crower website though under the 4G63 section, although the crank I see there looks the same as Magnus's lower priced billet crank.
BrianCrower.com - Brian Crower - BC - Mitsubishi Elipse / Eagle Talon - 4G63
Magnus crank

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Wondering if SBR is posting up the correct crank. Either way, if it's correct, that thing looks like it'd cut thru the oil like butter. Probably better off just getting a FFWD butcher crank though for the money. Hmmm....

Just FYI the crankshaft doesnt cut through the oil, it doesnt touch it otherwise it would froth the oil. The crankshaft spins above the oil in the air. Thats the reason you dont overfil the engine with oil because the oil level and the crankshaft touch.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Just FYI the crankshaft doesnt cut through the oil, it doesnt touch it otherwise it would froth the oil. The crankshaft spins above the oil in the air. Thats the reason you dont overfil the engine with oil because the oil level and the crankshaft touch.

What?!?!?!? Are you serious? Then what's the point of knife edging a crank then? Guess these statements from FFWDconnection.com are total bs???

Instead of the leading edge of the crank being cut and the trailing edge left alone, we knife-edge the trailing edge and round the leading edge. Much like the shape of an aircraft's airfoil. The result is a smoother "cutting" crank through the oil without the turbulence and parasitic drag that "normal" knife-edged cranks can and will give you.

Here you can see the leading edge of the crank. A nice machined, and smooth rounded edge leading up to a slight point. This will glide through that oil faster than Lydia during oil wrestling night at the Pip.

The reason you don't wanna overfill with oil is so that when the piston comes down it doesn't get stopped by a bunch of oil on the downward stroke and have nowhere to go. Not because oil will touch the crank. Please, don't post misinformation. Even if the oil was below the crank, I can't see the oil being still while going around corners, wot, and stopping. Guess the crank stays dry while driving around other than the oiling holes???

 

[Street Surgeon]

What?!?!?!? Are you serious? Then what's the point of knife edging a crank then? Guess these statements from FFWDconnection.com are total bs???

I was under the impression that the crank doesn't touch the oil much except for maybe at the lower edges? I honestly never looked or thought about it but it's not like the crank is sitting where the oil pickup is? On a different note, the BC crank is 102mm? 2.4l with even worse r/s ratio? Eh, I'll wait and see on that one. On yet ANOTHER note the eagle looks nice as well and is considerably cheaper than both the afore mentione cranks.

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[v8s_are_slow]

No, the crank will most definitely touch oil. I'm not saying it's gonna be submersed from top to bottom, but it'll definitely touch the oil. The area where the pickup tube isn't gonna hold just 5 qts. Try taking off your return line of the turbo off the oil pan while oil is in it and see if oil doesn't start gushing out. That's near the top of the pan and the crank's counterweights will rotate beneath the area of the bottom of the block. If cranks didn't touch the oil, I highly doubt someone would be spending $300 and up on a knife edged crank, or spend money on crank scrapers.

 

[Street Surgeon]

I know the sump doesn't hold 5 quarts but when the whole system is pressurized with oil there can't be a ton down there on the bottom. This is actually pretty interesting. I guess a good way to determine how "high" up the oil goes would be to see where the dipstick sits when it's inserted.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Well, this thread was more about the crank than the oil level and if it touches the crank or not. But let's say the oil level gets low enough to not touch it when the car is running. What do ya think is gonna happen when you do a WOT launch from a standstill. I'm sure that if you were holding a glass of water in your hand, the water isn't gonna just sit there and stay flat. It's gonna slosh around. Same goes for the oil, it's gonna end up hitting the crank regardless.

 

[Freerevving]

the crank splashes oil all over the place... and the crank is well within the oil

All the theories on knife edging are mostly just that... you will see a benefit from knife-edging no matter what method you use... It lightens the crank and allows less drag... the different ways of doing it are mostly just excuses for keeping the crank strong

Most machinist will just knife-edge the leading edge in order to keep the crank strong... one way or another, knife edging has the tendency to weaken a cast crank

The crank isn't swimming through oil like a submarine... it's hitting it pretty hard and needs to cut though it like a knife... further more, tuners need to stop confusing hydrodynamics with aerodynamics, even though they're similar (for example, things like "laminar flow" are only proven with fluids... aeroplanes have smooth finishes on them for a reason)

 

[v8s_are_slow]

One thing I noticed is that if the crank on the Magnus site is the same as the one on SBR's site, Magnus doesn't have one for a 6 bolt yet, and the one on SBR does. I'm just wondering why it's not "listed" on Brian Crower's website though.

I'm wondering how much you'd feel the difference you had one motor with a stock crank, did no changes at all, and then swapped cranks for one of these. I'm sure it'd have to help it rev pretty quickly. Just thinking about hitting water with your palm face down, and then hitting it so that the side of your hand hits it first instead. Big difference when you do that.

 

[Rob10_99]

The main thing that matters that anyone would notice is how fast the engine would free rev, and of course acceleration differences. The engine isn't going to make any more power from less weight, it will free up what the old weight of the rotating weight kept. Same concept as switching to a light flywheel or a twin disc setup,
I do like the butcher crank, and both of those!

 

[Freerevving]

Just thinking about hitting water with your palm face down, and then hitting it so that the side of your hand hits it first instead. Big difference when you do that.

good analogy... really does demonstrate the physics

Cutting down on rotational mass and parasitic drag (underdrive pulleys, lightweight rotating parts... lightened parts) not only makes the engine more responsive (revving to 7000rpm and back in 1 1/2 seconds is a lot of fun) but it definitely frees up horse power. The only problem is, you have to feather the clutch in first gear or the engine will bog.

You can take this a step further (like corvettes and many auto crossers) and put a dry-sump (electric oil pump, small pan). Doing this also allows you to lower and rotate the engine for a lower center of gravity.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

The only problem is, you have to feather the clutch in first gear or the engine will bog.

You need to read my stutterbox launching technique in the track section. Shouldn't have to feather the clutch if you launch this way.

 

[Freerevving]

You need to read my stutterbox launching technique in the track section. Shouldn't have to feather the clutch if you launch this way.

link?

 

[v8s_are_slow]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drag-strip/300021-my-stutterbox-launching-technique.html

 

[pneumo]

I just happen to have a great pic for this thread.
I set it up so you can see the angle that the engine is tilted when mounted in the car. I also lined up the camera so it's level with the main cap bolts. You can also see the turbo oil drain pipe, which is being pulled down by gravity by about 1/4". The low and high marks are not visible on the dipstick, but you can see where the dipstick twists at the bottom, so that's a good point of reference. You can't see the crank counterweights, but you can see the main cap bridge, and the counterweights clear the bridge by about 1/4".
HTH

 

[90laserRSfwd]

interesting...