Head Rebuild

ChunkyLover53 · 04-30-2008, 09:43 PM

I just wanted to get some opinions from some of you guys who have had your heads rebuilt before. This is a 7 bolt head that was sent complete with cams and gears to be rebuilt and the list is:

BC spring/retainer kit
1mm Oversized SS valves
3rd gen revised lifters

Rebuild (hot tank, valve job, installation of seals ect)

The conversation I had with the company said that quote "We will install everything including cams so that it will be ready to drop on when you get it." This kind of scares me, because the cams that I sent did not return to me installed or even in the box.

So I will have a conversation with them about the cam issue tomorrow, but other than that from the pictures my question follows. Also I am not in any way angry about this yet unless this looks a lot different than what you guys expect.

1. Is this what you guys would expect a head to look like upon recieving it?

ROOKIE1 · 04-30-2008, 09:50 PM

I would expect it to be alot cleaner after a hot tank .

ChunkyLover53 · 04-30-2008, 09:52 PM

I was just informed that aluminum heads can not be hot tanked which is what I always thought, but I was just copying what the work order said. So for the list, keep in mind it is just what was on the work order that was sent to me.

TjPhillips36 · 04-30-2008, 09:52 PM

I don't think they did a very good job tanking and cleaning the head. By tanking a aluminum head usually they just jet wash it and clean it. Everybody I always hear say tanking when it's actually just a jet wash. I could be wrong however.

bob123131 · 04-30-2008, 11:07 PM

Some places do a type of steam clean on aluminum heads since you cant hot tank. I would just bring it up when you call about the cams, dont complain as much as just ask what exactly they did to clean it since your work order included hot tanking which should have been substituted for another good cleaning method. Besides for the first pic everything looks pretty in check for what you had done. I have defintly seen better heads come home from the machine shop, but ive seen worse too. I wouldn't be to worried the bowls look great.

ChunkyLover53 · 05-01-2008, 12:31 AM

Thank you guys for the responses. I have never seen a built 4g63 head before (mostly V8 heads none of which were mine), but from what I have seen this also looks pretty standard to me. I hope all goes with with the install.

outkastracing · 05-01-2008, 08:03 AM

make sure if your using head studs the you put the washers in first before you pu the head on or youll be taking it back off it wont fit with those springs!!!! id go ask for some money back for the wash job not very impressed but you can clean it!!!

ChunkyLover53 · 05-01-2008, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by outkastracing

make sure if your using head studs the you put the washers in first before you pu the head on or youll be taking it back off it wont fit with those springs!!!! id go ask for some money back for the wash job not very impressed but you can clean it!!!

I do have a set of ARP head studs, and I really appreciate the advice. Do you mean the washers that go between the head the nuts? Also I have heard differnet things about torquing the nuts down. Am I supposed to torque them then loosen them, and retighten 3 or 4 times before running the car, or should I wait for the engine to heat cycle a couple times and then loosen and re tighten them?

TjPhillips36 · 05-01-2008, 11:14 AM

Put the washers that go on the studs in-between the head and the nuts in first before putting the head on the block.

You are supposed to properly torque the ARP's down, then loosen and torque again 3-5 times before running the car. Then after a couple heat cycles remove the valve cover and make sure the ARP's are still torqued down properly.

tkelly27 · 05-01-2008, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TjPhillips36

You are supposed to properly torque the ARP's down, then loosen and torque again 3-5 times before running the car. Then after a couple heat cycles remove the valve cover and make sure the ARP's are still torqued down properly.

I'm not saying you're wrong, but I've never heard of this. Torquing post installation is tricky business, because you are getting static torque, which is (duh) not the same as dynamic torque. There is a lot of theory that goes into how much torque you put onto your head bolts, studs, etc.

A lot of people have a lot of methods, the best idea is to call ARP and get it from them directly, or follow the instructions that came with the bolts.

That head looks like ass. They can't hot tank them, but damn, it should be a lot cleaner than that when you get it back from cleaning at a machine shop. I've gotten my head cleaner with a gasket scraper and some solvent.

ChunkyLover53 · 05-01-2008, 12:22 PM

I do have a small observation about the oversized valves. The intake valves stick out a little bit past the surface that meets the block, but just barely. The thickness of a head gasket is more than the amount that they stick over. I don't know if you guys have seen the same thing or if it will be a problem, but let me know. I will try to get a picture of this but it may not even be noticable, it was just to the touch i felt it.

Spyder4g64 · 05-02-2008, 05:05 PM

I am currently getting my head done, except with 2mm o/s valves.. I was just wondering how much you spent on just the machine shop labor..

Also, what type of seats were used?

ChunkyLover53 · 05-02-2008, 10:50 PM

This was done by JNZ Tuning, and I have no idea what kind of seats were used. I will get you the price breakdown on everything tomorrow. The total for the parts and labor came out to just under $1300.

Spyder4g64 · 05-03-2008, 02:38 AM

Yeah i am paying around the same amount for my setup.. I am having the local machine shop do the work though, E&G Machine Shop in Wallingford, CT.

I AM however still interested in what type of seats they used..

blcknspo0ln · 05-03-2008, 10:32 AM

I agree, that head looks like crap. Albeit, the cleanliness of it will not affect the performance. Did you have the head milled when you sent it to JNZ? To reinstall the rockers and cams, just follow the outline that I had in my build thread. You essentially just rest the rockers on straight and drop the cams on top of them. Just make sure your cam dowel pins are on the right way (intake/exhaust) and the dowel pin is at or close to 12 o'clock. Then take your time putting on the cam caps and torque to spec from the middle cap OUT and alternating.

As far as the ARP talk, it's true. ARP wants you to use their moly lube and torque/untorque/torque etc (up to 5 times). I personally just torque with moly lube in sequence (30-60-87) and then retorque after a heat cycle or two. I have done the torque/untorque sequence with my main's, though; but that only involves one torque step instead of the three like for headstuds.

ChunkyLover53 · 05-03-2008, 02:29 PM

The head was checked for flatness, and it was resurfaced. I am sorry I wasn't able to get in contact with JNZ today, but I will talk to them on Monday and find out what seats they used for you. Thanks for the confirmation about the torque/untorque info, by the way is the 87 pounds the final torque you used when bolting the head down?

blcknspo0ln · 05-03-2008, 03:46 PM

I use that number because I'm weird like that. ARP's instructions should have the final torque spec for your application. I do believe the 7 bolt torque is different the 6 bolt too.

ChunkyLover53 · 05-05-2008, 01:14 PM

I got in touch with JNZ Tuning today to find out what valve seats were used. To answer your question they are OEM seats. Eric said that different seats usually arent used unless the person is running a dual spring.

Spyder4g64 · 05-07-2008, 11:50 AM

Thats good news to my ears man.. That will save me about $300 in machine work.