hg is leaking out of the corner

[TurboDSMer]

So i just did a fresh motor over the summer. 1g rods with 2g pistons, ported head, ferrea valves, manley s&r, FP cams and originally a cometic hg. I put the car together and after about 250 miles of easy driving the hg is leaking out of the corner. I didn't realize this until the mileage was about 400 miles on the motor. So i replaced the hg at 500 miles with a mitsu MLS. The first time around i never retorqued the ARP head studs that i am using. So now with this new hg it is now leaking inside of cylinder 4. I havn't retorqued the head studs yet but do you think that could be my problem again?

Because the first time when i replaced the head studs the studs were very easy to remove. I had to use no force on about 5 of them and 3 of them took the whole stud out. Some people have told me that it's my head it's warped but i got it decked along with my block. Any input would be greatly appretiated. I also plan on retorquing the studs tom when i get out of work.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Make sure that there isn't any fluid in the threaded hole keeping the stud from going all the way down. Just run them in finger tight, torque and retorque.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Do a 3 step TQ down, also did you use ARPs moly lube? Put the head studs in hand tight then TQ down at 25ft/lb, then loose, then TQ down at 50ft/lb, then loosen, and TQ down at75ft/lb for a final time before driving, that is if you are using ARP moly lube for them.
Make sure you check the TQ specs and re-tighten them after the first heat cycle.
Also did you TQ them down in the proper order?

Dustin

 

[Enraged78]

Last December I was invited to the PRI show in Florida, and had the luck of running into an ARP engineer. I was fighting something similar with my setup that turned out to be a crack in the head (I really hope that kind of luck doesn't befall you). Anyway, the ARP engineer informed me that ARP studs can take as many as five full cycles of re-torquing before they stop stretching. Re-tourquing involves at least one full heat cycle. This means that you should re-torque, drive the car a ways, and repeat the process. You MUST wait for the car to fully cool down before you re-torque. It takes a car at least six hours to properly cool down. I like to wait overnight.

As far as the studs coming out of your head, when you first installed your studs, you should have made sure that the block was cleaned first. There should be no dirt inside to trap the stud or alter it in any way. Then you need to make sure that the bottom of the stud has a light coat of ARP lube on it. Some people use lok-tite, but if you install the stud correctly, you shouldn't have to. Next, make sure the hex key is facing towards you, and use an allen key to put it in the block. Use your finger to turn the key, and stop when the stud is at the bottom of the block. DON'T TIGHTEN IT! The studs should be hand tight only, which is why I use my finger and the allen key. If you feel it binding, you have dirt in your block.

So, my advice to you is this: Try retorquing in the correct pattern using the factory manual and the correct torque values using the ARP guides. When I re-torque, I do one stud at a time, and make sure that I take the nut out of the head and put on a fresh coat of ARP moly lube. It would be nice to do this with the washers as well, but they don't always clear the valve springs, and you can't lift the head if you're doing them one by one. You will find many different people use many different steps. I personally prefer a two step of 30ft/lbs. and 80ft/lbs. on 2G studs. The ARP manual calls for 75. Make sure that you're using a good torque wrench. Click type wrenches are NOT good wrenches. They need to be calibrated often, and most people forget to do this. Either use a beam type wrench that is true, or use one of the high end digital MAC or Snap On wrenches. Most folks use the beam wrenches because they are much cheaper.

Try this five times keeping what I said about heat cycles in mind. If you still notice that you're still leaking coolant, you have a problem elsewhere, and you should have your head pressure tested by a reputable machine shop.

Good luck,
Matt.

 

[boosted86]

nice write-up...^^^^^^

 

[TSIfreek]

Again stock head gasket. Dam if I could make any kind of MLS HG you guys would buy it.