dumb things you did on your rebuild so i dont make the same mistakes

[dnhieu]

okay their are so many people where i live rebuilding their motors that end up blowing them up not long after ( i know their are plenty of you out their if you admit it or not). well im in the middle of my rebuild and will be putting it back together shortly and am trying to think of every little thing that can go wrong so i dont have these problems.

also my buddie who doesnt own a dsm (2004 nissan specV) is running his mouth sayin the motor is only going to last 10k. this really gets on my nerves at this point i would give ANYTHING to prove his ass wrog.

thanks in advance tuners
david

 

[overdoseheroin]

the reason ppl are rebuilding their motors and end up blowing them up is becaus ethey dont know what theyre doing. i rebuilt mine a year and a half ago and its still running great, but i know what im doing. you need to take into consideration all clearances and make sure the crank is not out-of-round along with the cylinder walls. also if the crank needs turned, you need to take into consideration line honing the mains. its not hard to do when you know what to look for and know what to do, but if this is you first time with little or no previous experience...i would let a professional do it.

 

[ep3_04]

Do you have a Haynes or Chilton manual? I hope you do, but basically follow all the steps in either of those books. Make sure you have all your torque specs correct and all clearances are in a tolerable range. Number one thing is take your time, because you might forget something, so double check. Thats about all I can think of.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

but if you let a professional do it, you'll never learn

#1 thing I've read to do that I didn't know while researching is.. LUBE the new oil pump before you install it

 

[overdoseheroin]

but if you let a professional do it, you'll never learn

#1 thing I've read to do that I didn't know while researching is.. LUBE the new oil pump before you install it

true..but better yet..have a professional assist you so you learn the right way.

 

[timloomis]

yea but its fun trying to prime the engine in the middle of summer after you realized that the stuff you packed the gears with turns to liquid with 90* days.

 

[dnhieu]

but if you let a professional do it, you'll never learn

#1 thing I've read to do that I didn't know while researching is.. LUBE the new oil pump before you install it

thanks for the quick replies! I'm letting a professional assemble my head and bottom end. i don't feel i am capable of doing such a task, nor do i have the tools to do so. but after that I'm putting the rest together myself. I'm really looking for things blackspoOlin said. like little stupid things that can end up being a NIGHTMARE when you put everything together. 2 things that I'm definitely trying to remember is to prime the turbo and since I'm using a non turbo block drill and tap the knock sensor. i really hope i dint get too eager to put the motor in and forget to do these important tasks.


thanks tuners and keep the replies commin!

 

[blcknspo0ln]

these are pretty basic too, but I've caught myself ALMOST doing these things because i'm too damn eager

1. make sure there is all fluids in your motor (ahem ahem, OIL)
2. prime your turbo and other such things in your motor by pulling your MPI fuse or injector harness and crank your motor a couple times
3. Do things slowly and make sure you torque/put back everything back the way you found it
4. when removing things, put the bolts back in their respective places, or use a baggie with a sharpie marker
5. CLEARANCES!
6. make sure your gaskets are on the right way (TB gaskets ...)

I can think of more.. really

 

[dnhieu]

well if you can think of more why arent you postin more? j/k thanks alot man. i would hope im not dumb enough to foget the fluids at least tho

 

[gsxtacy]

If you are building for performance, with aftermarket forged pistons, connecting rods, ect.

DO NOT use the factory ring gap specifications. I cannot quote them from memory, but I have seen it first hand.

Under more boost than a factory turbo can supply, the ring ends butt together and literally pop the ring lands/crown right off the pistons.

Intentional Race Engines, need to have LESS ring gap and use a bit of oil to make repeatable/durable power.

I have often wondered how often Shep HAS to go through his engines. If he can make near 1000 hp and put it through over 50-100 passes a year, these 4g63 engines are freggin awesome.

Ohhh and do not rotate the engine in the wrong direction during assembly/installation.


Thats about it.

And ALWAYS...good luck.

gsxtacy

 

[dnhieu]

DO NOT use the factory ring gap specifications. I cannot quote them from memory, but I have seen it first hand.

Under more boost than a factory turbo can supply, the ring ends butt together and literally pop the ring lands/crown right off the pistons.

Intentional Race Engines, need to have LESS ring gap and use a bit of oil to make repeatable/durable power.

WOW. can you further explain this? i am going with a ross/eagle combo, ported head, forperformance pf2 ect.... i have never herd this saying before. this is more along a DD but with hopes of one day being an 11 second pump gas car. if its the diffrence between me making power and it lasting 10k its not worth it to me. i would much rather this motor make a little less power but be good to start up everyday and drive me from point A and B.


thanks alot
david

 

[gsxtacy]

When you go to forcing MASSIVE amounts of air like a 50/60 trim can, into the cylinder the "air" puts massive pressure on the rings, and if gapped excessively "tight" the ring ends can butt together and exert upward/downward pressure on the ring lands of the piston putting a stress on the piston that it is not designed to sustain.

I wanna say the end gap "stock" is something like .12", and on a HIGH PERFORMANCE build, with big cylinder pressure/volume, should be gapped more like .16-.18" or something.

I am not refrencing any material so don't "quote" me, but you can understand the ideaology behind my theory.

Surely someone knows and agrees with this practice. Come on someone...back me up.
Am I right or wrong?

gsxtacy

 

[Fastclipse97]

just because i wonder....
i watched a friend spin the motor the wrong way....honda()
what is negative effects of that..
so i wont do it on my 6 bolt

 

[Mike1992]

I stuck 2 pistons/rods in the wrong holes, . Got it confused with spark plug order. All is right now.

Wrong - T-Belt 1432
Right - T-Belt 1234

I then has to move some rings around as I already gapped them for that specific hole/piston.

 

[dnhieu]

I stuck 2 pistons/rods in the wrong holes, . Got it confused with spark plug order. All is right now.

Wrong - T-Belt 1432
Right - T-Belt 1234

I then has to move some rings around as I already gapped them for that specific hole/piston.

well im not going to put the bottom end togher so i at least dont have to worry about that. hopefully slowboy will send me the right oem timing belt. i dont exactly see how they will mess up tho.

oOo yeah is your rebuild still at a hault? i remember seeing a pic with it almost ready. i would hope something little isnt holding you up, im sure your ready to start driving it again.

 

[Mike1992]

Im not gonna booger this thread up, but im slowing getting there. Things havent really changed since last time I posted up in my rebuild thread. But, I have a friend coming over tomorrow and we're gonna make my intercooler pipes for my FMIC and then after that all I need to buy is that new 20g. I'll post pics up saturday of the newly finished and painted intercooler pipes.

 

[dnhieu]

anyone else have any input?

 

[defrag010]

When you go to forcing MASSIVE amounts of air like a 50/60 trim can, into the cylinder the "air" puts massive pressure on the rings, and if gapped excessively "tight" the ring ends can butt together and exert upward/downward pressure on the ring lands of the piston putting a stress on the piston that it is not designed to sustain.

I wanna say the end gap "stock" is something like .12", and on a HIGH PERFORMANCE build, with big cylinder pressure/volume, should be gapped more like .16-.18" or something.

I am not refrencing any material so don't "quote" me, but you can understand the ideaology behind my theory.

Surely someone knows and agrees with this practice. Come on someone...back me up.
Am I right or wrong?

gsxtacy

It's cylinder pressure that causes the rings to expand, more horsepower creates more pressure.

There is a spec sheet that comes with your particular set of rings when you buy them that will tell you the range with which to use them. Usually, they will tell you that for OEM applications, it's like Bore" x .0040. Street/strip is like Bore" x .0045", and pure out turbo/nitrous race motors re Bore" x .0050" or .0055".

 

[dnhieu]

It's cylinder pressure that causes the rings to expand, more horsepower creates more pressure.

There is a spec sheet that comes with your particular set of rings when you buy them that will tell you the range with which to use them. Usually, they will tell you that for OEM applications, it's like Bore" x .0040. Street/strip is like Bore" x .0045", and pure out turbo/nitrous race motors re Bore" x .0050" or .0055".

damn i didnt know that. is their also a relationship between the rest of them with how long the engine lasts? ill have to talk to the machine shop tomorrow about that because obviously i want a street/strip bore.

thanks
david

 

[diamondstargsx]

today after driving 2 hours to help a friend finish a build after staring it up for the firsty time after a complete rebuild he dropped a valve cover bolt down in number three cylinder wich #### the head and piston up.talk about some bullshit and i feel so bad for him im taking monday off to help get this going.lucky that we have so many dsm parts around its just a mistake that can happen with a shit ass outcome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

dont give up and keep going!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

 

[dnhieu]

damn i think i would cry if m 5k motor just died because of a .02 cent valve cover bolt. sorry to hear that man.

 

[defrag010]

Yeah, that's one thing I stopped doing is using that center valley of the valve cover as a bolt holder.

 

[gsxtacy]

Think thats bad? I use a magnet to install my ARP head stud WASHERS cause I dropped one down into one of the oil drain gallies in the head! Luckily I could get it out, but I feel safer controlling the washers to their location.

Ohh and a spark plug in that hole could have prevented that mishap. Bolts don't make it to the combustion chamber through any other hole from the top of the engine.............now they can if they are in the intake pipe.........but who would do something like that?

gsxtacy

 

[dnhieu]

i read a topic awhile back where a guy was getting ready for the dsm shootout and they wasted a brand new FP turbo because their were bolts left in the intake pipe.

 

[4wd-Eclipse]

Don't forget to do a good break-in for the engine