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Turbo selection

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rdrkt

20+ Year Contributor
1,540
3
Apr 20, 2002
Baltimore, Maryland
It seems as if we can never have a clean discussion about turbos in the other forums. I was hoping that we could create a dialogue here and maybe have it be a reference point for people asking questions. These are just my opinions but I would really like to get a few of your opinions on this.

For a guy on a limited budget I recommend a 16g even with limited supporting mods/tuning ability and a stock sidemount it should be sufficient for getting high/mid 12s. For fuel I would recommend a fuel pump I am partial to the Supra pump of Walbro if you are on a budget. You also need a SAFC. Upgraded injectors shouldn’t be required until you really start upping the boost. That combo deppending on supporting mods should be good for between 250-330hp depending on gas type. For people want to run 11s on a 16g it is going to require 110 octane or higher gas and a lot more supporting mods.

For someone that had a larger budget I would recommend a 50trim t3/t4. I like Garrett turbos a bit more than bolt-ons but that is just my opinion. A Garret can be purchased for under 700 you would need a manifold that you can get from SFP for around $500. You need an external wastegate you can probably get away with a 35mm Tial You also need a different 02 housing. A 50 trim turbo should be able to make great power on pump gas. I would expect a 50trim depending on supporting mods to make a big over 400 to the wheels. I would expect very low 12s on pump gas with a pretty decent mph and high/mid 11s on c16. You will need a lot more supporting mods for this. I would recommend 650cc injectors, HKS cams either 264 272 or a pair of 272s for a FMIC I would recommend a Spearco 216 core from Diamond Star Motorsports or IRC. For fuel management this is where it starts to get tricky. This turbo will require a raised rev limit and a lot of people will have trouble with dropped counts when using a SAFC and hacked MAS. This is the point where most people use a SAFC/VPC combo. Everyone has an opinion on this personally I prefer a Haltech in a case like this if someone either knows how to do the tuning themselves or can find someone that can. The reason I prefer standalone is that a the VPC, SAFC, TMO, Datalogger combo is pretty expensive and you still run into tuning issues because you are fighting the stock ECU every step of the way. At this power level you may want to take your motor into consideration. Most people are going to have 100k miles+ on their DSM. Most motors that old either do not want to hold more than double the factory HP or have compression that is out of the service range. This is also a hotly debated topic. If it were me I would go with a 1g rod 2g piston motor because I wouldn’t want to get into forged pistons.

The aforementioned two levels should be the level that most people should stop. Most people will run their car on pump gas and depending on turbo selection a larger turbo might not be able to beat a 50 trim on pump gas. This should still be a relatively driveable reliable DSM and you should be able to have fun with it. For people wanting more HP than that you start getting into a lot more options. Most people will have a hard enough properly tuning the 50 trim much less something much larger. When you start making 500+hp to the wheels you run into a lot more maintenance issues than you would at a lesser power level.
 
Are you talking about a 1G or a 2G. I would recommend a 16g/Big16 for any 1G on a limited budget but sinces 2G's need an install kit also it can make it more costly than some other turbos out there like a T28/Big 28.

I'm also personally a fan of an internal gate for a someone on a budget. Nowadays you can get turbos will a 36 or even a 39mm flapper making it alot easier to run a bigger turbo (50/trim or even my L2R) w/o the need for a costly external gate setup.

With FMIC getting cheaper and cheaper I would also agree with something like and IRC or any kit using the spearco-216 core.

On a 2g a S-AFC/pocketlogger combo is good on a budget. If you have an EEPROM ECU the dsmlink id great for those with a laptop who want a step up in tuning abilty.

HKS cams definitley round out the package if you're looking for that extra top end power. a 264 intake cams really helps out in mainting a good idle.

On the subject of motor combos. for a 2G you have to drop in a 6-bolt if you go with any kind of built motor. That is just my opinion from someone who has seen way more built 7-bolts walk anyuwhere from a 100-1000 miles later.

One thing I didn't see metion as far as supporting mods is a clutch. I personally have noe problem with my 2100 but if I were to do it again I would step up to the 2600.
 
Originally posted by L2RTSiAWD
Are you talking about a 1G or a 2G. I would recommend a 16g/Big16 for any 1G on a limited budget but sinces 2G's need an install kit also it can make it more costly than some other turbos out there like a T28/Big 28.
I was mainly talking about 1gs but a lot of it still applies to 2gs. I didn’t think about the T28 sorry.

Originally posted by L2RTSiAWD
I'm also personally a fan of an internal gate for a someone on a budget. Nowadays you can get turbos will a 36 or even a 39mm flapper making it alot easier to run a bigger turbo (50/trim or even my L2R) w/o the need for a costly external gate setup.
I don’t really want to get in an internal external debate. But I don’t see how you are going to have an internal gate be able to control 18lbs of boost on pump gas and 27lbs of boost on race gas.

Originally posted by L2RTSiAWD
HKS cams definitley round out the package if you're looking for that extra top end power. a 264 intake cams really helps out in mainting a good idle.
I got 850cc injectors and undegreed web street cams to idle well with a hacked to crap 1g MAS and a SAFC. If I can get that nightmare of a setup to idle I think anyone here should be able to get a pair 272s to idle. But the 272I really isn’t required unless until you are at the 50trim or beyond stage.

Originally posted by L2RTSiAWD
One thing I didn't see mention as far as supporting mods is a clutch. I personally have noe problem with my 2100 but if I were to do it again I would step up to the 2600.
I also didn’t mention boost gauges or air filters some of the stuff I just figured that everyone would ASSume that you needed some stuff that wasnt mentioned.

If you aren’t having any problems with your 2100 that is cool it probably had a nice light pedal. However if you are going to get into drag racing and do a big clutch slip launch like you are supposed to that clutch wont last for too many passes.
 
Originally posted by rdrkt

I don’t really want to get in an internal external debate. But I don’t see how you are going to have an internal gate be able to control 18lbs of boost on pump gas and 27lbs of boost on race gas.

I have no problem with 20psi on pump gas on my internal.

Originally posted by rdrkt

I also didn’t mention boost gauges or air filters some of the stuff I just figured that everyone would ASSume that you needed some stuff that wasnt mentioned.

I know but most of the other supporting mods are not debated over as much as a clutch so I wanted to give an opinion on that.
 
((Looking into crystal ball)) In the not too distant future there will be a new style intercooler that will make intercoolers as we know it obsolete.

I dont see the sense in debating turbos. Dont get me wrong the right turbo is very important however in the scheme of things the turbo is only a small part of what it takes to go fast. Truely advanced discussions need to focus on how to get the most out of YOUR turbo rather than what turbo ;)
 
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