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Cylinder Head & Short Block: 4G63 cams, valvetrain, pistons, rods, stroker kits, 6-bolt swaps, hybrids, etc. Read this Forum's Strict Guidelines.

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Old 08-13-2004, 12:23 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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From: Queens, New York
Registered: May 2003
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full rebuild questions


Alright. I need some real and good advice from experienced dsm wisemen or any dsm member who has alot of knowledge. I am getting my block right now rebuilt. The following are the specs:

wiseco 9:1 20 overbore
balanced crank
eagle rods
arp rod bolts
clevitte rod and main bearings
block honed and cleaned

head job are as follows:

full pnp
3 angle valve job / or 5 angle?
titanium valves / or / oversize valves
hks 272/272
titanium springs and retainers???

forced induction are as follows:

fp red / fp 3065 / precision gt37 w/ nitrous
fp racing fmic or precision as 1026
dnp header
tial 40mm
tial bov

fuel:

aeromotive fp
aeromotive fpr
950cc injectors

air:

magnus intake
gm masf w/ trans

drivetrain:

lsd
act2900

electronics:

aem ems w/ eugo wideband
avcr


I just need to know what kind of balve job should i go with, what turbo will be good, and are the springs and retainers required for this set-up. All i want to c is at least 500 whp. I want more of course, but i hope this set-up will alllow me to hit 500 and have all the necessary parts. Anything else I'm missing? Also, worse comes to worse, it's time to go with slicks ### i damn well know i won't have any traction. Also, i want the turbo to boost at 25 on lp, and 30 on hp. Any suggestions and or comments are greatly appreciated



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Old 08-13-2004, 12:50 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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f4st's Avatar
From: dallas, Texas
Registered: Aug 2003
Tech Posts: 184
Classifieds Rating: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eclipst
Alright. I need some real and good advice from experienced dsm wisemen or any dsm member who has alot of knowledge. I am getting my block right now rebuilt. The following are the specs:

wiseco 9:1 20 overbore
balanced crank
eagle rods
arp rod bolts
clevitte rod and main bearings
block honed and cleaned

Ok.

head job are as follows:

full pnp
3 angle valve job / or 5 angle?
titanium valves / or / oversize valves

Thats a difference between strength and size.

hks 272/272
titanium springs and retainers???

forced induction are as follows:

fp red / fp 3065 / precision gt37 w/ nitrous

I promise noone is going to tell you what turbo is best for you. Call fp or search.

fp racing fmic or precision as 1026
dnp header
tial 40mm
tial bov

fuel:

aeromotive fp
aeromotive fpr
950cc injectors

air:

magnus intake
gm masf w/ trans

Why would you need gm maf if you had aem ems?

drivetrain:

lsd
act2900



electronics:

aem ems w/ eugo wideband
avcr


I just need to know what kind of balve job should i go with, what turbo will be good, and are the springs and retainers required for this set-up. All i want to c is at least 500 whp. I want more of course, but i hope this set-up will alllow me to hit 500 and have all the necessary parts. Anything else I'm missing? Also, worse comes to worse, it's time to go with slicks ### i damn well know i won't have any traction. Also, i want the turbo to boost at 25 on lp, and 30 on hp. Any suggestions and or comments are greatly appreciated

I havent slept in 2 days so i may not make sense

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Old 08-13-2004, 03:09 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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fastdsmz's Avatar
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For the vave job 3 or 5 are fine. For springs and retainers yes if you plan on spinning the motor past 8k which i assume you are with those turbos. Any of them tuned correctly can put you at 500hp.
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Old 08-13-2004, 07:20 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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From: Gainesville, Florida,US
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ARP head and main studs? i didn't see anything about them listed. if you're going to the trouble and cost of building a killer motor don't even mess with factory stuff. Line honing/boring is not that expensive but a spun bearing is.


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Old 08-13-2004, 08:00 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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From: Queens, New York
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Tech Posts: 80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TD05HTalon
ARP head and main studs? i didn't see anything about them listed. if you're going to the trouble and cost of building a killer motor don't even mess with factory stuff. Line honing/boring is not that expensive but a spun bearing is.

i have all the studs and bearings. i will be doing everything complete so no worries to that.

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Old 08-19-2004, 01:30 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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From: chicago burbs, Illinois
Registered: Dec 2002
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go with a 5 angle, and if your going for 500 horses, you might go with the fp3052 i believe that 3065 is a 650whp turbo, not saying that you shouldn't go for it, but just thought i'd make that clear.

make sure to post a dyno vid if you get one, good luck

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Old 08-19-2004, 08:01 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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From: Queens, New York
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Tech Posts: 80
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yeah i was thinkin of the fp3065 after i destroy my 20g. But for now, i'll keep the 20g wif every single possible upgrade that i could do. if i can't get real good numbers out of it, i'll go with the fp3065. i asked my machine shop if it's worth it for me to do the 5 angle job, but he said for streetability and cost, 3 angle is the way to go. he suggested just to get ss valves, springs and retainers. but yeah, ill def post vids and dyno sheet once it's finally done.

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