Some work Ive done.

[redline6k]

Top Mount for my 1.8

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T3 Manifold for the 4g63

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T4 Divided I'm doing for a friend

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Log manifold i did for the 1.8

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Intake manifolds I did for the 1.8 still working on my aluminum skills

65mm Mustang TB flange

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Stock TB flange

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[Dsmj89]

Nice work there bro. Never seen someone put so much dedication and work into a 1.8 block. Can't wait to see the finished product and how it performs.

 

[Trav83]

Nice work there bro. Never seen someone put so much dedication and work into a 1.8 block. Can't wait to see the finished product and how it performs.

Couldn't have said it better myself

 

[1sttimedsmr]

Hell of nice work on those exhaust manifolds. How about those intake manifolds? How do they perform?

 

[redline6k]

How about those intake manifolds? How do they perform?

They out performed the stock manifold on the flow bench. I haven't done any real world testing on mine yet.

 

[habitatguy187]

I wish I had skills

A local guy makes custom exhaust manifolds, and out of curiosity I asked him how much it costs in materials/welding supplies to make one and he wouldn't tell me. Care to divulge?

 

[turboglenn]

Very nice work indeed... Actually a little motivating because i have a few spare 1g intakes and havfe already built a plenum and have tubing for runners and have been thinking about doing a SMIM like the ones in your pics.

Your AL welds look okay (especially for cast to forged AL), and the beads will get better with time. Your SS welds look greaat though. nice uniform and good heat control! Keep up the good work and keep posting it up!


Habitatguy...the reason he probably wouldn't tell you is because the price of the parts after making a prototype, then a jig and it's costs added with the price of equipment and electric use (along with other shop overhead....argon, filler rod for the welds etc...) It is very hard to judge what one piece costs to build, and if he just quoted you the metal costs he would be fooling himself and you about the cost of building one from the fabricators side of things.

It may only cost about 200 in SS to make a nice header, but by the time you've got one good header you've probably thrown away at least 100 bucks in material, spent another 100 or more on the metal to make a proper jig, 30 bucks or so wrth of argon and a few bucks in filler and electric added on top of that 200 for the pieces to make it., And with the man hours you've used up making the original and making the jig, YOu're sometimes loosing money until "X" amount of units are sold... Typically a GOOD jig will weight 3 to 10 times what the final part weighs, and metal is sold by the pound,So once you add up all of this you can understand why you will see headers for 500 bucks and more for a basic one.

I've found that even on small parts that don't require a ton of materials by the time i've covered all the above costs and sell the first units, i won't even break even on money until i've sold about 6 - 10 units of what ever it may be at a standard markup from materials cost based on my man hours, jigging, R&D etc.et.c.et.. and the bigger the part, the more units you need to sell to recoupe the original investment to the point where you can say you are making you money

 

[Cesar]

you should make a turbo mani with longer runners...that would be cool.

 

[sherloc123]

Wow all those manifolds look awesome. If you dont mind me asking what would you charge for a t3 flanged 4g63 manifold?

 

[gixrman]

Habitatguy...the reason he probably wouldn't tell you is because the price of the parts after making a prototype, then a jig and it's costs added with the price of equipment and electric use (along with other shop overhead....argon, filler rod for the welds etc...) It is very hard to judge what one piece costs to build, and if he just quoted you the metal costs he would be fooling himself and you about the cost of building one from the fabricators side of things.
I've found that even on small parts that don't require a ton of materials by the time i've covered all the above costs and sell the first units, i won't even break even on money until i've sold about 6 - 10 units of what ever it may be at a standard markup from materials cost based on my man hours, jigging, R&D etc.et.c.et.. and the bigger the part, the more units you need to sell to recoupe the original investment to the point where you can say you are making you money

Shhh..don't let my wife read this!! She thinks I waste enuff money on parts and materials as it is. If I had to break it down.

 

[redline6k]

you should make a turbo mani with longer runners...that would be cool.

I'm working on a top mount manifold for a buddy of mine. I'll post up pics when I'm done.

 

[vanilla gorilla]

Wow great work. Those exhaust manifolds look like they were store bought. They look awesome. The intake mani isnt too shabby either.

 

[trevnasty]

Thats just makes me want a tig. NICE WORK

 

[AWD_Hybrid]

Nice work redline6k Self rewarding is the buz in making them.
Cheers !

 

[90rslaser]

pretty sick exh. mani. and the intakes wouldnt look half bad if you just did it all from scratch instead of adding onto the stock bottom part . but seriously, really nice headers. MAKE ME A TOP MOUNT.

 

[e85_4g63]

What welder do you have (I assume your using a TIG, but what machine) Miller? Lincoln?

 

[redline6k]

What welder do you have (I assume your using a TIG, but what machine) Miller? Lincoln?

Jasic AC/DC 200amp inveter tig welder.

 

[snakeyes711]

Tig looks good. I can give you some geal good tips on tig welding aluminum as thats what I do for a living. always remember to keep your filler rod in the shielding gas area at all times while welding for sure that will get rid of that sugary (as we call it) look on the filler rod.

What happens when you take it out of the shielding gas when welding, is it oxidizes the same way steel does which is what we call rust. So you oxidize the filler rod then add it to the good aluminum, and it turns black when you add it.

If you need any pointers I can surely help. I been tig welding for about ten years now. looking good on that stainless. I like to keep stainless nice, and cool it'll get all gold looking, love it!

 

[redline6k]

Thanks for the advice Snakeeyes. Ive been working on my aluminum welding. I did some intercooler pipes for my car they came out pretty nice. It's not the best pic to see the welds but its all I got.

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[Trav83]

I can't wait to see some dyno numbers with this 1.8

 

[snakeyes711]

right on, looks good. Tig welding aluminum is very tedious. Takes a lot of practice to look good aluminum is very hard to penetrate. Its also very easy to get real hot, real quick. Are you using a foot pedal? we use Miller thumb switches at work, which is soo much harder to use then working a foot pedal. But we can't maneuver around the shop too well dragging a foot pedal around. I love the roll switches though.

 

[EnvyMyGsx]

Start selling those T3 bottom mounts for the dsm and ill take one for my PTE Billet 6265 turbo.

Jim

 

[redline6k]

right on, looks good. Tig welding aluminum is very tedious. Takes a lot of practice to look good aluminum is very hard to penetrate. Its also very easy to get real hot, real quick. Are you using a foot pedal? we use Miller thumb switches at work, which is soo much harder to use then working a foot pedal. But we can't maneuver around the shop too well dragging a foot pedal around. I love the roll switches though.

I have a foot pedal but I never use it. I just set the amps and go. I keep telling myself to start using the foot pedal but sometimes its difficult to use when welding in weird positions.

 

[snakeyes711]

Right on. Just watch your puddle area when it gets too hot it'll fall in like that or you really gotta fly down through there. Thats why I love the remote thumb wheel, I set the welder up to 275 amps then I can decide how hot, when. But a thumb wheel set up is high dollar, and very hard to use. BTW I can make, or weld, anybody, anything they want for aluminum, just ask.

 

[95TalonOwner]

What kind of internals do you have in that thing?