FP Green Owners.....

[NOMIEZVR4]

I finally got things going and am looking to purchase the Fp Green turbo. I just have a few questions before I get this turbo. I know its a direct bolt-on but do I need to bend my oil lines or water lines a bit? also is a SS line reccommended? what size intake pipe would i need for this?

 

[DSMSpyder99]

well i can answer one of your question your gonna need a 3" intake pipe for the FP GREEN i recommend going to www.dejontool.com:dsm:

 

[sleestack]

Compressor housing inlet: The inlet is 3", you'll need some sort of after market intake. We sell a 4" intake pipe for a 2g mass with a 4" to 3" reducer. That may be an option for you if you have a 2g mass.

Compressor housing outlet: 2" and points down in the direction of the motor mount. We can weld a 90 degree elbow on in any direction for a small additional fee.

Turbine inlet: Comes ported for wastegate on the manifold, on the O2 or internal type setup, you specify when you place your order. Requires the use of a 7cm gasket.

Turbine outlet: bolts up to stock ported O2 housings or aftermarket pieces using the DSM 4 bolt pattern. Requires a standard 1G DSM turbine outlet gasket.

Water Lines: There are none. Block them off on your motor by taking some coolant hose and two clamps and routing the nipple on the thermostat housing to the water line coming off the water pipe. Essentially, just bypass the turbo. If you are going for a cleaner look, just block the ports off or get N/T DSM parts from your dealer.

Oil Supply Line: You MUST use a SS oil Supply line that takes oil from the oil filter housing and NOT the head. There is not enough oil pressure /volume from the head port to properly feed our aftermarket monster thrust bearing with additional oil supply holes. Thus, it will likley fail otherwise.

Oil Drain Line: Standard 1G drain line from you local dealer.

Oil type: Mobil 1 full synthetic, wieght of choice

Setup recommendations for proper utilization (mid to high 11's in the quarter):

1g throttle body
1g intake manifold or better
HKS 264\264's cams (nothing but HKS)
ported 2g or EVO maniold
550cc inj 1g/ 650cc inj on a 2g
255hp walbro
Apexi AFC
hacked mass
3" turbo back exhaust
ACT 2600 clutch or better

That basic recipe netted 11.5's @ 125 on one of our 2g's (read Loren Jacobs on DSMtimes.org)

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by sleestack

Oil Supply Line: You MUST use a SS oil Supply line that takes oil from the oil filter housing and NOT the head. There is not enough oil pressure /volume from the head port to properly feed our aftermarket monster thrust bearing with additional oil supply holes. Thus, it will likley fail otherwise.

People need to keep reading that until its burned into there skull.

 

[Rick@AP]

That's very interesting as I've seen more than a few turbos blow because of TOO much pressure from the oil filter housing. I've measured as much as 101 psi of pressure from the housing location. Very few turbos can stand up to that kind of pressure for very long without burning oil or blowing seals.

Are you saying that the FP turbos are set up to withstand the 100+ psi of pressure that can be supplied from the filter housing? Are you willing to bet the farm on your statement? If you are supplying SS lines with a restrictor, thats one thing, but a non-restricted feed line....

 

[talonted_one]

I hate to hijack this thread but seriously ...I haveheard too many people say too many things as far as where to get oil to the turbo.


Is there a set guidline for this i.e Conventional bearing can go to the head, and Ball bearing come from the oil filter housing?

 

[sleestack]

Rick@AP
Don't furthur contaiminate this thread with confusion, that's my #1 pet peeve. If you want to know how to oil a FP Green or Red turbo you ask Robert and/or I, there is no better expert on this topic as both of us have built hundreds of them over the course of the last 3 or 4 years. Not to mention, Robert designed the thrust bearing in this turbo and earmarked the 50 trim combination as the industry standard pump gas turbo. If you want to discuss how to oil any other turbo, open your own thread and type yourself into carpal tunnel.

This guy isn't asking how to install a T3T4, 16g or BB turbo, he is asking about the FP Green. Dont apply ther information given to you in my post to other turbos. Such use of my information would be irresponsible and illogical.

If you have Genuine FP Green or FP Red you MUST oil off the oil filter housing, NO EXCEPTIONS!
This does not apply to other FP turbos, just the Green and just the RED. These two turbos have special thrust bearings designed to handle the excessive amount of oil you get from the housing. We use this addtional flow for cooling, and superior dependablilty from the abundant lubrication.

16g's, T3T4's, and BB turbos don't need this much oil, There are technical reasons for this. For example.

16g/20g's have a similar bearing structure but their thrust bearing has one small oil supply hole. This is acceptable because 16g compressor wheels can not put damaging axial/radial loads on the TDO5h shaft. The compressor wheels are just not big enough.

T3T4 50 trims were designed from the ground up to handle these loads and when used with a 360 thrust bearing...they can dependably handle these loads over the long run when oiled off the head.

Ball Bearing turbos do not need to float journal bearings around the shaft in a pressurized oil film because they don't have them. Therefore, true ball bearing turbo only needs a fine mist of oil film to keep them operational. However, it is nessecary to use water cooling on these turbos, as some the internals around the bearings are made of nylon and it is possible to sustain long term damage otherwise.

I am trying to help out here, I didn't get on this board this morning to argue how to best install and use a turbo that I build to someone I have never even heard of, and who obviously took my statments completley out of context.

 

[Rick@AP]

Originally posted by sleestack
Rick@AP
Don't furthur contaiminate this thread with confusion, that's my #1 pet peeve. If you want to know how to oil a FP Green or Red turbo you ask Robert and/or I, there is no better expert on this topic as both of us have built hundreds of them over the course of the last 3 or 4 years. Not to mention, Robert designed the thrust bearing in this turbo and earmarked the 50 trim combination as the industry standard pump gas turbo. If you want to discuss how to oil any other turbo, open your own thread and type yourself into carpal tunnel.

This guy isn't asking how to install a T3T4, 16g or BB turbo, he is asking about the FP Green. Dont apply ther information given to you in my post to other turbos. Such use of my information would be irresponsible and illogical.

If you have Genuine FP Green or FP Red you MUST oil off the oil filter housing, NO EXCEPTIONS!
This does not apply to other FP turbos, just the Green and just the RED. These two turbos have special thrust bearings designed to handle the excessive amount of oil you get from the housing. We use this addtional flow for cooling, and superior dependablilty from the abundant lubrication.

16g's, T3T4's, and BB turbos don't need this much oil, There are technical reasons for this. For example.

16g/20g's have a similar bearing structure but their thrust bearing has one small oil supply hole. This is acceptable because 16g compressor wheels can not put damaging axial/radial loads on the TDO5h shaft. The compressor wheels are just not big enough.

T3T4 50 trims were designed from the ground up to handle these loads and when used with a 360 thrust bearing...they can dependably handle these loads over the long run when oiled off the head.

Ball Bearing turbos do not need to float journal bearings around the shaft in a pressurized oil film because they don't have them. Therefore, true ball bearing turbo only needs a fine mist of oil film to keep them operational. However, it is nessecary to use water cooling on these turbos, as some the internals around the bearings are made of nylon and it is possible to sustain long term damage otherwise.

I am trying to help out here, I didn't get on this board this morning to argue how to best install and use a turbo that I build to someone I have never even heard of, and who obviously took my statments completley out of context.

First off, take a F'ing Pamprin and come off your PMS cycle. Whether or not you have heard of me has nothing to do with tea in China. Internet fame is for those who seek it, I personally have no use for it. All you need to know is that I've installed and sold more than a few turbo's over my 10 year span of owning a DSM and 5+ year span of operating a more or less DSM based business. What I've seen is what I know. If you know something different then put it out there without all of the extraneous BS.

Back on subject...go back and re-read my thread. I simply asked, since you are supposed to be the experts on your turbos, if you were sure about the taking oil from the filter housing comment. The main reason being that there is so much conflicting information regarding where to tap on a standard turbo and the ball bearing turbos. I've seen ball bearing turbos as well as those claiming to have 360 degree thrust bearings have problems with tapping from the oil filter housing location. For my own information and the information of those that would be intrested, I asked so that we would all be a little more educated about FP's product.

Thanks for clearing up the confliction with the useful part of the information that you posted, but as for the rest of that crap, I could have done without it.

 

[jdmawd]

I don't understand where theirs a need to argue. The guy that obviously builds the turbo thats being discussed is simply explaining how to properly supply oil to his turbo. His comments are specific and on topic. He didnt make one refrence in his initial post to any other turbo then the Green.

 

[sleestack]

Don't get 3rd grade on me Rick, there is no reason to use words like F'in and PMS cycle, thats childish. I don't know were you are coming from with the internet fame, however I do consider myself the expert on my product. When I said I have never heard of you, its cause I haven't. I'm not trying to make enemy's, just trying to avoid the snowball of confusion that quite honestly these boards are known for, like it or not.

I was looking around and found the
best turbo under $900 bucks threads and kind of understand where you are coming from now. Hopefully I have cleared up some misunderstandings.

It is true that in cases were you have excessive oil pressure, keeping it in the cartridge can be a challenge.

Let me tell you this though, If you have over 100psi at that housing, (as most people who remove their balance shafts do) your putting unnessecary stress on your oil pump gears and housing and wasting horsepower. You don't need it.

Moving the turbos oil supply to the head is running away from the problem.

 

[Rick@AP]

Originally posted by sleestack
Don't get 3rd grade on me Rick, there is no reason to use words like F'in and PMS cycle, thats childish.

You're right I apoligize.

Thanks for the information.

JDMAWD,

There wasn't an arguement, just a request for clarification that somehow went awry.

 

[Groomz]

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