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Throttle body coolant bypass [Merged 9-7]

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I've heard, and like I said, heard, that this causes problems with the car idling etc. See attached link, its under 92/98 TB EGR mapped. Maybe this is only when your using a 1g TB on a 2G, I dunno. Just thought I would share. http://www.turbo4wd.com/
 
If your drving your car in winter, you should have the line hooked up. Ohter then that there is no problem
 
it will idle a little high until the car fully warms up but then its fine. it does not give a noticeable power gain. the only reason i did it was to lessen the chance of leaks and unclutter the engine compartment.
 
Today my idle speed kept changing and surging up and down. Sometimes it would idle at about 1200 and sometimes 7 or 800. I guess this is the down side to the coolant bypass. Hopefully it will work itself out, or maybe I'll get use to it. It seems fine sometimes but not in the morning thats for sure.
 
The coolant lines are only for the Fast Idle Air Valve. It just raises your idle when it's cold out. For a daily driver I'd leave them hooked up, but for a mostly strip car I'd bypass them....
 
if there is any modification i wouldnt do, its this one. there really isnt much upside at all, just downside. when i did it, my car would idle at like 3k for about 5minutes when it would finally warmup, then expect it idle between 900-1400. it also caused sever idle surge. just not worth it for me. VERY happy day when i reconnected the lines.
 
If you are going to bypass the coolant lines to the TB, you need to block the FIAV as well (RTV). With that blocked, you should not have any more idling issues after bypassing the coolant lines.
 
Why would you think that hot coolant running threw your t.b would have the same air temp as if you didnt have the coolant lines hooked up? Your t.b is going to be hot and the air passing threw it will transfer the heat. So tell me how would this not drop your intake temp?
 
Most have determined it's not worth it.

I though about doing it but then after reading up on it it's just wasn't worth the idle hassles it causes.
 
fast idle air valve... it an idle air valve that opens when throttle body is cold so the car warms up quicker for emissions purposes (light off the cat quicker...) if you gunk it up, you wont have idle surge/high idle because the throttle body is cold

RTV: room temperature vulcanizer... you havent taken your valve cover off lately have you?

do it either way, you wont notice any gains or losses from this mod, but if your for anti-clutter - its a good idea.
 
It's a silicon based sealer that hardens up after a couple hours. You can get it anywhere including autozone, I recommend permatex ultra grey.
 
Have you read the vfaq on it I thought it made it very clear what needed to be done. You don't have to use rtv you can make a blockoff plate. Go to the vfaq then go to intake go down to fast idle air valve blockoff for the 1g read that at least 4 times then you should find your way.:thumb:
 
OK So I did a search and came up with these two threads on the blocking off the coolant to the throttle body or Fast Idle Air Valve.

1G TB to 2g Swap DOESN'T work
FIAV Blockoff/Elimination.

Seems like some guys make a block off plate, others just by-pass the lines and some have to keep the coolant lines on no matter what or they get idle surge.

I just finished my Magnus intake manifold and put on a 1G throttle body. I was just going to bypass the coolant hoses and not bother blocking off the water lines at all. Now I'm thinking that I should re-install the coolant lines.

Who here has by-passed the lines and did you block off the fiav with a plate?
 
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