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Just isntalled revised lifters, "ticking" even worse.

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forcefed86

15+ Year Contributor
1,007
14
May 23, 2006
wichita, Kansas
Recently blew a HG so I swapped heads. The head I swapped in had the original lifters in it. I didn't like the noisy drive train so I decided to swap in my revised lifters from my old head. (always had quiet valve train with it)

After doing this today I fired the car up and it ticks like mad. I know the lifters have to pump back up, but I let the car idle for a good 10 mins and come up to temp. Still clacking like mad. Even worse than before. I did bleed down the lifters before install.

Any tips? The 3G lifters I installed were defiantly in good shape and were all still "pumped up". I used a paper clip and bled them all down, then I blew all the old oil out lubed them up well and installed them.

I've even tried reving the engine up a few times to help get the oil pressure up. No luck.
 
Go drive the car a bit at lower "highway" engine speeds- it can take a while for new or empty lifters to fully pump. Took the ones in my Ford truck almost 30 minutes to quit making noise after an engine rebuild.

Time to fully pump is also dependent on oil weight used.
 
Go drive the car a bit at lower "highway" engine speeds- it can take a while for new or empty lifters to fully pump. Took the ones in my Ford truck almost 30 minutes to quit making noise after an engine rebuild.

Time to fully pump is also dependent on oil weight used.

I was a little leary of reving it up at all with them "de-pumped" But I'll give it a shot. Using 20/50 VR1 so it's pretty thick. Temps aren't helping either. around 45* today.

Thanks!

That worked nice and quiet now.

Thanks

:thumb:
 
Hello, I have done a little reading up on this because I too have an annoying "TICK". I read in another thread something about the revised lifters and the bottom end not having enough oil at high revs, is this something I will have to worry about? In the same thread the person modifed the 1G lifter by adding a small chamfer?? I would like to get rid of my "TICK" but I want to do it the right way. Thanks in advance for all the help.
 
Hello, I have done a little reading up on this because I too have an annoying "TICK". I read in another thread something about the revised lifters and the bottom end not having enough oil at high revs, is this something I will have to worry about? In the same thread the person modifed the 1G lifter by adding a small chamfer?? I would like to get rid of my "TICK" but I want to do it the right way. Thanks in advance for all the help.

Sounds like a bunch of BS to me. Once the balance shafts are removed there is more than enough oil pressure. Drop in the revised lifters and be done with it.
 
Sounds like a bunch of BS to me. Once the balance shafts are removed there is more than enough oil pressure. Drop in the revised lifters and be done with it.

Thanks thats what I wanted to hear. Also can I reuse the valve cover gasket when I do the lifters or should I get a new one? I believe that this one is fairly new.

thanks
 
If it's not damaged, there is no reason to replace it. I use studs so it makes it easy to drop the gasket on first then the VC.
 
If your lifters are ticking, the orifice size in them is not the problem. Putting revised lifters in to cure lifter tick masks an issue with the engine that should be resolved.
 
If your lifters are ticking, the orifice size in them is not the problem. Putting revised lifters in to cure lifter tick masks an issue with the engine that should be resolved.

Yes and no... There is a reason Mitsubishi revised the lifter design. If there was nothing wrong with it, they wouldn't have changed the design. The tiny orifices were pron to clog if any little bit of carbon or debris happened by.

Mine just happened to be worn out, they no longer stayed "pumped up" with oil and could easily be compressed by hand even when full of oil. The 3g lifters in my original head were still "pumped up" a good week after I removed it. They be bled down before install.
 
If your lifters are ticking, the orifice size in them is not the problem. Putting revised lifters in to cure lifter tick masks an issue with the engine that should be resolved.

TexasTurbo, my engine had a total rebuild 10k ago, I know for a fact that the place reused my original lifters, so I am hoping that the revised lifters will do the trick? Im not sure what else I can do assuming all the valves are shimmed correctly? I know that the tick is really bad when cold but once the oil is up to temp it is not as noticable but it is still there, any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
This is retarded…:D

Drop in the new lifters and go. Your not going to hurt anything by doing so. At worst it won’t cure your problem. At best it will. No harm no foul. You will also be able to bench test your old lifters once you have the new ones installed. It’s a “no-brainer” don’t over analyze it. I will say changing them without removing the cams was tricky and I ended up with some nasty blood blisters before I got it down pat. Be careful!
 
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