garrett/turbonetics manny pics

[draculia]

comp clearance

 

[draculia]

wastegate/oiltube issues

 

[draculia]

comp

 

[draculia]

4 bolt t31, in the distance the stock sidemount that will be gone soon

 

[draculia]

front shot

 

[larryd]

whose kit?

 

[draculia]

mine, parts from a buch of different people. fmic is on the way too. i'm working on the downpipe/o2 now, and when the fmic gets here i'll do the piping for that too. i'll snap a pic of my intake later.

 

[draculia]

my intake next to my old injen. the intake is only tacked right now

 

[draculia]

my new air filter next to the old one

 

[draculia]

the start of my o2

 

[DSMJim]

Hmm... I am going to be running into the same problems very shortly. What are you going to do to get around the oil tube? Just gonna pull it out and bend it backwards to clear the WG and downpipe or what are you plans there?

Keep posting pics so I know what to expect before I'm there.

 

[JayHass]

Originally posted by draculia
comp clearance

You know guys, if you are having water tube clearance issues, there is a very easy fix.

Loosley bolt the turbo to the manifold and tilt the turbo away from the water tube and shim the distance you need with cardboard or the like (1/8" or whatever). Then measure the space distance of the gap from the turbine flange to the manifold flange that has now appeared. Take your turbine housing (Or mani) to an auto machine shop and have them remove that same measured amount from the front (opposite side you measured from) side without removing any from the back. (Just milled at a slant) When you bolt it up, your turbo will now be "cocked" a few degrees forward and the clearance issues are gone.

I've always wondered why people would dent the coolant tube instead of doing that. <shrug>

 

[Scotty]

Some of my experiences with a turbonetics t3 ex manifold and a garret t3/t4 w/ a t04e comp cover:

1) On my install the t04e comp cover cleared the large coolant tube from the pump. If you dont like the clearance...dent the coolant tube a bit.

2) The dip stick must be bent slightly to the right.

3) I used SS -6AN braided line/fittings for the turbo coolant lines. -4AN for the oil feed and a -10AN oil drain line.

4) The A/C fan (driverside) must be replaced with a slimmer aftermarket fan or removed.

5) Those using a Turbonetics T3 ex manifold with an TiAl exWG will have hood/exWG clearance issues. Welcome to the club.

Those worried about the design of the turbonetics t3 ex manifold with the exWG venting only from one runner...don't worry about it. I can dial down my boost to ~10-12psi. Do I ever drive around with 10-12psi? No.

 

[Scotty]

Milling the turbonetics ex manifold to clear the coolant tube would push the exWG even further into the hood. I'd rather dent the tube slightly than a even larger dent in the hood.

 

[Scotty]

It does fit...

 

[JayHass]

Originally posted by Scotty
Milling the turbonetics ex manifold to clear the coolant tube would push the exWG even further into the hood. I'd rather dent the tube slightly than a even larger dent in the hood.

You wouldn't be moving the manifold. It's position to the head wouldn't change.

You would be moving the TURBO, not the manifold.

Restricting a coolant passage on a car that has a big FMIC and cooling issues anyway is IMO a bad idea.

Venting your wastegate from one runner is a bad idea not for boost control but because of the fact you are now causing one cylinder to run with MUCH less back pressure than the other three which can cause problems when tuning. It also causes exhaust gas to "reverse" flow up that runner to meet the WG. Not a good thing. Does it work? Sure. Is it the right way to do it? IMO, No.

 

[Scotty]

Originally posted by JayHass
You would be moving the TURBO, not the manifold

Wouldn't that just cause another fittment issue for the bolt-on crowd? By clocking the turbine housing you also clock the o2 housing. Then you would have to also modify the downpipe or the o2 housing so the flanges mate correctly.

 

[JayHass]

Originally posted by Scotty


Wouldn't that just cause another fittment issue for the bolt-on crowd? By clocking the turbine housing you also clock the o2 housing. Then you would have to also modify the downpipe or the o2 housing so the flanges mate correctly.

Everything SHOULD be able to absorb at least 1/8" of adjustment. (Which is about all you need anyway) I mean, what happens when your motor moves 3/4 to 1" under power? Everything moves with it.

The turbo would be relocated just a bit, and it wouldn't be "reclocking" anything, the turbo would just swing out that 1/8" or whatever in the same manner as the motor torque-ing back. You probably SHOULD reclock for correct flange orientation though but even then it would be minimal.

 

[Scotty]

<bolt-on mode>
If you only "c0ck" the turbo forward slightly(~1/8") to clear the tube in question...then a ~1/8 dent is only required for the bolt-on crowd. IMO

Slightly denting the tube shouldn't reduce the flow of coolant greatly. If you have a huge FMIC and have cooling problems because of restricted air flow...get an aftermarket radiator and a pair of high flow cooling fans.
</bolt-on mode>

btw: I hear AGP's T3 manifold does not have these clearance issues.

 

[mclaren55]

I have the same manifold, I just used a spacer plate and everything fits perfectly. As for the dipstick, I just bent it out of the way, works fine still.

 

[Airpoppoff]

i really like how your bov is positioned

 

[draculia]

well the coolant pipe isn't a problem, it does clear. it has the same clearance as the turbine housing does with the block. the wastegate on a 2g is not a problem for the hood. it doesn't even hit the heatshield on the hood, so there's plenty of room. the only issue is the oiltube, and that is an easy fix. i'm gonna try just rotating it up and making a new bracket to bolt to the block. not a big deal at all. the worst part of the manifold is the casting quality, one runner is way off center, and one runner in the collector is smaller than the others. i put about 3-4 hours of portwork into the manifold, and now i'm happy with it. i'll post pics when i remove everything to get coated. i'd rather have these minor issues, than worry about cracking.

 

[draculia]

oh, there was one thing i forgot to mention. the waterline fitting on the block was an clearance issue. the banjo bolt was very in the way. i have just an oil cooled cartridge though, so this was removed and a hex plug was put in, so that issue was no longer. this would be an issue if you had a watercooled cartridge.

as for oilines, the feed has a 90* 1/4" mpt to -4an, then a 3ft line, then i believe the fitting in the oil cooler is a 3/8" npt.

the drain line i have a 1/2"fpt flange, then a 1/2"mpt to -10an fitting, then the -10an line, then another 1/2"mpt to -10an fitting, and i'm having a special flange made out of the stock drain flange that will be 1/2"fpt.