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***Crankwalk...Please Read***

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91TSi FWD

20+ Year Contributor
617
3
Jan 26, 2003
Edmonton,
OK, ever since I became a member at this site I’ve seen post after post of people wondering about crankwalk. By now you could use the search topic, type in crankwalk, and somewhere in there you’ll most likely find your answer. What I'm trying to do here is to get peoples opinion on this thread. Please look it over and add/or edit what you think is wrong or what should be added. My goal here is to come up with a post that everyone can be pointed to. Please, no B.S.

Crankwalk...

Crankwalk reffers to a crankshaft which moves an excessive amount inside the engine.

Many 2G owners have experienced ‘walking’ crankshafts. This happens because the crankshaft does not fit in the bearings proporly. Crankwalk is also known as thrust bearing failure. the bearing fails and allows the crank to "walk". A walking crankshaft will not harm the crankshaft itself, but the movement can place excessive or uneven loads on the bearings, causing premature failiure.

When the crankshaft "walks", it pushes the backplate into the crank sensor causing it to fail (literally, it tears through the crankshaft angle sensor). This problem usually manifests itself as a ticking noise coming from the timing belt area, as the sensor is literally and slowly ground away by the crankshaft. Any such noise should be investigated right away to prevent serious problems. If you have taken apart your car to replace the crank sensor, look to see if there are plastic shavings on the trigger plate, where the plate has actually contacted the sensor itself. If your crank sensor has suddenly failed, the chances that the sensor has done so on its own are low. To replace the sensor alone is a short term fix, if your crankshaft is walking. Getting to the crank sensor is a lengthy process since the timing belt and all else has to come off.

Other causes of crankwalk include the 2g oil injectors. They clog, causing a lack of oil on the bearings and thus, the bearings warp and allow the crank to "walk". Also, it has been stated that a higher pressure clutch application, especialy the 2600, accelerates the process if you are going to get it. However, let it be known that there is no solid proof as of yet that a strong pressure plate causes crankwalk because of the relatively common occurence in stock cars.

The crankshafts in many of the 1G DSM’s have a larger rod and fit more proporly inside the bearings. The six-bolt motors are not nearly as suseptable to get crankwalk as the later 7-bolts. The 6-bolt engines were produced between March, 1989 and the third week of May, 1992. May 1992 to the first week of May, 1994 have 7-bolt motors in the 1G DSM’s. All 2G DSM’s have the 7-bolt engine. Even though the Spyder has a 2.4L SOHC engine it can still crankwalk, as with the 1.8L 1G. Note that any engine can get crankwalk, even big V8’s.

If you want a temporary fix for crankwalk, you can contact Mitsubishi as they have made bearings which propory fit the crankshft. Matching the bearings is tricky and requires exact information about when the crankshaft was manufactured, which may be determined by color markings on the crankshaft itself. The 2G factory manual includes information on how to match crankshafts to bearings.

There is no real way to tell if you car is experiencing crankwalk, symtoms are usully difficult to diagnose untill major damage occures. Some symptoms are that when you are turning a left corner the clutch will often ‘stick’down, this is often a sign of crankwalk. Other symptoms include rough or poor clutch engagement, inconsistant engagement height, ticking noises, difficult shifting, and variing pedal height or pressure. Another symptom is having the engine RPM decrease significantly when the clutch pedal is depressed. As you add more and more horsepower to your engine, the greater chance you have of getting crankwalk.

Also, there is no recall as of yet on the crankshafts.

for more info on crankwalk, check out these sites.
- http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/crankwalktheory.htm
- http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/
- http://www.vfaq.com
- http://www.nx2k.com/eclipse/crank_walk.htm
Or go somewhere like google and do a search for crankwalk.
 
Incorrect on the dates of the 6-4 combination. A friend of mine's car was made in May of 1992 and he has a 6-4.

Also, another cause of crankwalk is the 2g oil injectors. They clog, causing a lack of oil on the bearings and thus, the bearings warp and allow the crank to "walk"
 
Originally posted by 91TSi FWD

Crankwalk...

Crankwalk reffers to a camshaft which moves an excessive amount inside the engine.

Many 2G owners have experienced ‘walking’ crankshafts. This happens because the crankshaft does not fit in the bearings proporly. A walking crankshaft will not harm the crankshaft itself, but the movement can place excessive or uneven loads on the bearings, causing premature failiure.


crankwalk refers to the CRANKSHAFT:p

walking crank is also known as thrust bearing failure. the bearing fails and allows the crank to "walk"
 
My car just walked tonight, still wondering what I am going to do. I can still drive it but when I press the clutch in I can hear the Crank hit the CAS.:(
 
The difference between 6 bolt and 7 bolt has nothing to do with the crank fitting "proproloy" in the bearings :) Its about a different crank and bearing design, along with the other changed mentioned. When a 7 bolt is new, or hasnt walked and has 150k miles on it, the crank fits in the bearings just fine. Some walk, some dont. Why that is is the real mystery.

I crankwalked 3 95 motors before my 6 bolt conversion ;)
 
quick question about 7 bolt/6 bolt in the 2gs...how do you go about finding out what you have short of taking the motor out or whatever? i have a 95 awd talon and when i had a water pump put in (with timing belt job) i noticed on the reciept that the water pump was for "pre-4/1995 model" are there certain dates that tell you which motor you have? i'll have to check the manufacturing date on the car later if i get a response :)
 
Originally posted by nellystyle
quick question about 7 bolt/6 bolt in the 2gs...how do you go about finding out what you have short of taking the motor out or whatever? i have a 95 awd talon and when i had a water pump put in (with timing belt job) i noticed on the reciept that the water pump was for "pre-4/1995 model" are there certain dates that tell you which motor you have? i'll have to check the manufacturing date on the car later if i get a response :)

Congratulations, you have one of the "Early Build" '95's. The early build '95's are arguably one of the rarest DSMs. These were the first 2G DSMs off of the assembly line, and oddly enough, every one I have seen so far has been a Talon. I have an early build '95 (built in the beginning of 3/94, and have been told that it was one of the first 2G's EVER off of the assembly line. Some wierd things you should know: First, you have vented rear brakes. No other stock 2G's do. Second, if you have ABS, it is different than any other ABS produced. To be honest, early '95 ABS was probably the worst. Third: Early build '95's seem to have the lowest risk of crankwalk of any 2G, save the '99's. Fourth: I have been told that the early build '95's were more of a 1G/2G hybrid. The more I work with the car, the more I see it. You still have the crappy T-25 and plastic BOV (unless you've changed it), but you will start to notice 'little things' the more you work with the car. Fifth: You are guaranteed and EEPROM ECU with some very wierd code in it. CEL's seem to go off very easy in the early build's.

Matt.
 
my 9/94 talon has the vented rear brakes and some of the other little quirks that none of the other 2g guys seem to have.
About the ABS system, as far as I can tell, I have ABS on the car, however it never comes on nor does the light light up on startup. Do all TEL's have wheel speed sensors on all four corners along with a proportioning unit behind the drivers side headlight that says "Nippon ABS", and rotor hats with the 2 'extra' holes drilled in them?

If this sounds like I have abs, is there any way to check the system?
 
Originally posted by nine5raptor
my 9/94 talon has the vented rear brakes and some of the other little quirks that none of the other 2g guys seem to have.
About the ABS system, as far as I can tell, I have ABS on the car, however it never comes on nor does the light light up on startup. Do all TEL's have wheel speed sensors on all four corners along with a proportioning unit behind the drivers side headlight that says "Nippon ABS", and rotor hats with the 2 'extra' holes drilled in them?

If this sounds like I have abs, is there any way to check the system?


look for an ABS control box under the hood,on my 1g it is to the left of the valve cover,i'm not sure about the 2g.. but its most likely in the same spot or close to it.
 
Nine5 - You have ABS. If you have the speed sensors and the Nippon box, you've got it. The ABS computer is located in the center console behind the e-brake cable. It's really easy to get at. You have a later build '95 ABS, so it's not as intrusive as mine. Mine kicks in rather early and does a piss poor job of stopping the car in a slide.

Enjoy,
Matt.
 
mine never kicks in and I don't get the abs light nor a cel for that matter. I've suspected the previous owner disabled it or it never worked for a while now. When I get the car back (getting a tranny rebuilt) I will look into it more. And when you say "behind the e-brake cable", you mean towards the back seat, under storage compartment?
 
You might want to throw in there that after the CAS fails, the car will not start. Also, I'm pretty sure it's not a matter of properly fitting bearings. You may want to revise your piece about 1G rods fitting properly. Since Magnus did a large write-up on the subject and they referred to the "oil injectors" as "oil squirters," you may want to do the same to aviod confusion. Other than that, it looks pretty solid. Good god do I wish people would search!
 
i have an 8/94 car i just found out and yes my plastic bov top nipple is off the right side unlike all the other 95+ which goes straight down and some other small things are a little different the guy with the 3/94 talon is one of the first 2gs off the line i belive they started a little late in the year for the 2gs too .. i bought my car at 80K and its only a few away from 100K miles and ive had no problems or sings of crankwalk.. *knocks on wood" but its been an easy maintenace car for a year now so im just modding it till something does break :) hopefully that will be somewhere up in the 150K zone or maybe even later :):thumb:
 
where is the best place to locate the production date? in the door? I have a 95 tsi and have 105k on it and haven't noticed anything yet (knock on wood) I was just wondering if I might have one of the early production cars?
 
Originally posted by Enraged78


Third: Early build '95's seem to have the lowest risk of crankwalk of any 2G, save the '99's.
Matt.



My 1/95 talon has 135k on it and runs great, no signs of crankwalk at all. So more than likely i probably wouldnt get it??
 
Originally posted by zerofreez

My 1/95 talon has 135k on it and runs great, no signs of crankwalk at all. So more than likely i probably wouldnt get it??

Some people never have problems with crankwalk on there 2G DSM's.

Sorry I havn't been keeping up to date in the first post, thats because yesterday I tried to edit it and I got a message saying that I'm only allowed to edit for 1440 minutes after the first post. I don't want to copy and paste it as another post because after a while it could get pretty confusing. Sorry. For now, you may as well just add info that you think should be added or edited. Thank you to everyone who contributes.
 
magnus's theory is that the oil squirters get cloged in the open position. there always leaking or squirting oil. they were designed to close at a certian oil pressure so that the rest of the oiling system would get more oil.
 
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