Turning signal makes my car to buck/jerk???

[BlueShark]

91 Mitsubishi Eclipse AWD

Situation 1.
While I am cruising at steady throttle I turn a
turning signal on. This makes my car to buck/jerk and
O2 reading drops to almost nothing. I can feel it
more when I'm driving on a highway (at constant
speed). When I am seating at a traffic light with my
turning signal on, my idle fluctuates about 200rpm as
long as my blinker is on. Any idea???

Situation 2.
I get the same kind of bucking/jerking at steady low
throttle. Usually around 10-17% throttle. It feels
like it's missing or someone new to a manual shift is
driving the car. Any idea???

Help me out please?

 

[OMN_DSM]

Sounds like it could be your ECU. Your caps. are probably leaking causing your ECU to mess up. No positive though. Pull your ECU and take out the four screws and look at the capacitors (about a 1/2 in tall and 1/8 inch wide cylinder in the center of your ECU) And if you don't see anything wrong with it don't rule it out. Try to find a buddy with a 91-94 turbo DSM and switch him ECU's. Good luck!

Mike

 

[BlueShark]

I guess I should've mentioned that I don't have a stock ECU.
Thanks for your input. Really appreciate it, Mike.

I'm running a Haltech E6S. Maybe something with my wiring is bad since Wrightouch built this and let me just tell you that they do NOT have a right touch at all from what I saw. I can't even start with that cuz it would be a day long.

Anybody else wanna chip in?

 

[Turbo Guru]

whenyou turn on the headlights and flash the high beams or step on the brakes does the car react as it does with your blinkers?

 

[BlueShark]

Little bit not as much as with a blinker.
I tried checking my voltage while a blinker was on in a parking light. Didn't see any significant change. I'm gonna try again tomorrow with different location of ground.

Another weird thing is that my idle drops when I step on the clutch. Somebody told me I probably have a vacuum leak from "brake booster hose" and I need to replace.

I love this car but it never ends.

 

[Turbo Guru]

The symptoms you described as well as the answer to my above question lead me to believe that either your alternator is bad, you have a blown alternator fuse, or there is a bad connection in the power supplied from the alternator to the rest of the car. Your car is running off the battery only and these fluctuations are a direct result of that. Do this; while your car is running disconnect the battery (make sure that you have the radio code and any tuning info saved first.) If the car dies when you disconnect the battery this confirms my suspitions (sp? I'm tired.) You should also notice that you will have trouble starting the car as this problem remains and your lights will dim as you drive at night. Trouble- shoot using the above situations as a template. I hope this helps, it is only my opinion... Joe

ps- if you have any more questions PM me.

 

[Tallen]

sounds like alternator to me as well...

 

[dTERM]

I have a hard time with the alternator theory, The little batteries in DSM's tend to only give you 5 to 6 good starts before they die without recharging. I think he would already be jumping it off if that were the case. Take it back to the ECU shop and have them check it...sounds like an ECU problem to me.

 

[mustang347]

My car did that very same thing last week. I was driving to work, and i noticed that when I switched lanes, and used the turn signal, the car would leap forward, and then hesitate back... It was the alternator. I had severe problems, and the car died before IO got to work. But I fixed it and its all sweet again.

 

[BatmanGSX]

Have a turbo timer?

 

[boost]

Sounds like you need to rewire youre fuel pump, you can find out how at www.clubdsm.com

 

[BlueShark]

BatmanGSX, why did you ask me if I had a turbo timer???

I did fix the problem by the way. It turned out one of the wires had a bad connection (ground). Of course, a touch of Wrightouch bringing unfortune to my life. I got the wired soldered and it's back.

However, my rpm still do drop with a blinker on. It's been doing it ever since I bought the car. It's not as bad as before the wire fix.
I already have my walbro rewired and test showed .2volts fluctuation with a blinker on. I wonder if that's normal.
I'll look into alternator theory as well.

Thank you all.

 

[boost]

The problem with thinking its the alternator is that if its not going to produce enough power to run the car properly with the blinker on then it would do the same with all accessories(wipers, ac, etc...). Also if your alternator was that bad your battery would eventually die from not being recharged. I would first get a good wiring diagram,not from mitsu but from a shop that has mitchell on demand. Use the diagram to try and find a bad connection, or ground.

 

[BlueShark]

Yeah, I think it's one of my ground also. Out of all this mess, there is something even more messed up.
Thank you all for great inputs.

 

[TrustGs-R]

did you ever find a solution/fix to your problem?

I have the same clutch-in stall problem.

And when I turn on my headlights my idle goes down about 80 rpms instead of raising the Rpms .

 

[BlueShark]

It comes and goes. It has gotten a lot more stable now that I went thru the fuel and ignition mapping for a while. "These days" I think it's related to my TT & alarm combo wiring but there is no hard evidence yet. Just busy with life, you know, it's hard to take time to run various tests.

My alternater seems to be working alright. Oh, try different ISC. It might not be bumping it up when there is a load. Especially, since you said yours stall with the clutch in. Try turning the steering wheel all the way to one side and hold while the engine is running in park. You will see rpm dropping but it should bump itself up again.