Too much slack timing belt from idle pulley to oil pump

[Spoolin4Ever]

I'm trying to put on the timing belt correctly.

For some reason I keep having too much slack from the intake to idle pulley to oil pump.

Anyone else had this?

I keep trying to re-do it, but everytime it seems there is too much slack and when I try to rotate the engine CCW 1/4, the belt pops off/slips a tooth usually down on the crankshaft or oil pump gear.

Made me think I had the wrong belt but nope it is the correct part number.

6 bolt/1gb

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I'd suggest that you go ahead and ultra crank (within reason) your tensioner pulley and then rotate the crank a few times. I just did my timing belt and I found that I needed to tighten the tensioner pulley much more than suggested because when I actually snugged up the bolt it rotated the pulley back the opposite direction, causing slack.

It's also possible that this doesn't apply to a 1g because of differences in the rotation of the pulley. But I'd wager that if the belt is too loose, tightening it even more before doing your rotations would be a good place to start.

 

[misphit]

You should tighten your pulley until the stopper that you have in your tensioner is loose to the touch. Then tighten the pulley up. If that doesn't make sense, stop right now and re-read the vfaq.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

I'd suggest that you go ahead and ultra crank (within reason) your tensioner pulley and then rotate the crank a few times. I just did my timing belt and I found that I needed to tighten the tensioner pulley much more than suggested because when I actually snugged up the bolt it rotated the pulley back the opposite direction, causing slack.

It's also possible that this doesn't apply to a 1g because of differences in the rotation of the pulley. But I'd wager that if the belt is too loose, tightening it even more before doing your rotations would be a good place to start.

Well before I even get to that point, one thing I noticed is there is more slack on the intake side, which doesn't seem as effected by the pulley. Seemed like no matter how muck I tightened it, it would still happen.

If you look at the intake cam gear, the belt "comes off" of it earlier than it is on the exhaust side. No what I mean? Making the intake side slackier in general. I didn't think the pulley will effect that side dramatically either way. So far, that's how it's seemed.


Belt part number: MD326059

 

[misphit]

Ahhhh, I see what you're saying. See if it helps to take up the slack on the belt by rotating the oil pump by a tooth or so in either direction, enabling you to reposition the belt so to speak.

 

[TurboAnything]

If you set the cams back 1 tooth and the oil pump pulley back then rotate the oil pump gear into position you will pull all the slack out.

 

[nuclearr]

If you get some one to help you. You can take 2 17 mm wreches one on each cam have your buddy advance each cam 1 tooth (toward the firewall) Then you make sure your cran and oil pump gears are on mark get all the slack out you can and put the belt on. Have your buddy release the wrenches should take out your slack. then tighten up yout tensioner and then rotake the crank at least 4 full rotations by hand. Check to make sure the belt is still tensioned properly. If need be readjust the tensioner pully you should be able to pull the gernade pin out and put it back in place easily.

 

[steve]

I start with all the timing marks lined up and put the belt on the exhaust cam and clip it with a big binder clip.

I roll the intake cam sprocket backward about half a tooth and pull the belt as tight as I can without moving the exhaust cam to fit the belt onto the intake sprocket before clipping it to the sprocket. Then rotate the intake cam forward to make sure the timing marks line up and make sure that I can't go past the timing marks.

Now I know that the exhaust and intake cams are exactly right with no slack so put the belt around the idler pulley and like before, turn the oil pump sprocket back half a tooth. Again pull the belt as tight as you can and fit it onto the oil pump sprocket. Rotate it forward as far as it will go and check the marks again.

Continue the same process for the crank and then adjust the tensioner pulley to take up the slack between the crank and exhaust. Nothing should move at than point since you have made sure there wasn't any extra teeth of belt between each sprocket.

All you have to do then is preload the belt with the tensioner pulley and make sure the auto-tensioner is correctly set.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

Alright; I will give it a go. Thanks much.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

By the way, as far as the tensioner, does it have to be facing a certain direction when it is first bolted on, and if so which way should it face when adjusted correctly?

It seems to very depending on the writeup.

 

[steve]

It seems to very depending on the writeup.

It depends on the engine and I'm always getting confused if it's generation specific (1g vs 2g) or 6bolt vs 7 bolt. In either case start with them being at 9 o'clock and then rotate it when you reach the point were you take up the slack.

Test it before you put the belt on, in a 1G the tensioner pulley shouldn't hit the water pump or engine mount. Start with trying up and it it hits anything then it goes down. I wish I could remember the specifics but this will tell you. On a 2G with a 7 bolt it's always down but on a swap I again get confused and have to check it before hand.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

RESOLVED-Just needed to pull on the belt, with the oil pump gear back about a tooth, and then pull belt on the geat, and use a 14mm on the gear to help seat it. Much easier than by hand

Same with the cam gear but using the 1/2 ratchet instead of the 14 mm.