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Modified Forge Mazdaspeed Pull-Type CBV

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DSMunknown

15+ Year Contributor
4,108
42
Sep 16, 2004
Worcester, Massachusetts
So after all my problems with my original Forge 1G CBV, I contacted Patrick and he hooked me up with a prototype Mazdaspeed compressor bypass valve with a 1G flange.



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I just concluded that my car simply didn't like the push-type CBV that I had. No idea why that is. My uncrushed 1G BOV did fine, so it somewhat baffles me as to why the engine would act so awkwardly with the Forge bolted on.

Anyways, after over 2 years with having it lying around, I still wanted to get my dollars worth from what I put into the Forge company. Patrick didn't give me too many details about the CBV before he shipped it out to me, but he was fairly confident it would cure my boosting woes.

And it sure did.

This thing holds boost like no one's business. I only currently have the green spring installed (the weakest of the four) without any shims in place, and it holds in the low 20PSI range all day long.

As far as sound goes, it is akin to the regular 1G CBV I purchased originally. No surprise there. Yes, it does look very similar to the HKS SSQV that has been around forever, but there is no fluttering with this piece.

Just me thinking out loud here, it somewhat reminds me of the upside down 2G BOV mod that some have tried. (Examples here and here for reference.) But I'm getting off topic.

To switch springs or add/remove shims, all I need to do is unscrew the top of the piston chamber and voilà. No more messing around with the allen wrench and small bolts, in fear of losing or stripping them. Very nice.

The only "bad" thing I would say about this product is that it does not swivel like the 1G version does (owners know what I'm talking about). I liked how I could turn and angle the full camber (and outlet) of the Forge 1G if I needed to. On the other hand, the revised lock ring was also needed for the 1G to work properly, but not in my case.
 
I had a similar problem with my Forge valve. I started by adding grease which actually made the problem much worse but then later I pulled it entirely apart and cleaned everything and made the discovery that I had managed to get a bunch of grease trapped up in the vacuum tip which caused the top chamber to have low pressure while the bottom was forced up by boost in the intercooler pipe.
 
Nice looking valve Anthony, any idea when these would be coming to market? I've always liked the sound my old Forge valve made the best of any BOV I've run but I had issues with it not blowing off properly at full boost (I had one of the origional versions before they found out about the locaking ring issues). I'm really not a fan of my current SSQV & how it flutters basically all the time except under full boost, so if this new valve doesn't flutter, I'd defently be interested in it. Whats it like under part throttle conditions? Hows it for size, SSQV'ish size? (not a monster like the Synapse or the Tial bong?)

Now if it came in anodized black :rocks:
 
Now if it came in anodized black :rocks:

then it would be a stock MR2 valve. LOL

put the softest spring in and leave it. pull-type valves are held shut by boost. they can't leak. the softer the spring, the quicker it will respond to pressure changes.

the only reason you'd need a stiffer spring is to hold it closed at idle when you're venting to atmosphere on a MAF car the way you're not supposed to.

DSMunknown said:
Just me thinking out loud here, it somewhat reminds me of the upside down 2G BOV mod that some have tried. (Examples here and here for reference.) But I'm getting off topic.

actually, the 2g valve will work turned around. problem is no one has bothered to modify it correctly yet. you have to plug the bottom of the valve shaft, and drill a vent hole in the side of the shaft to change the side of the valve seat it gets boost pressure reference from.

in stock form, it gets boost reference through the shaft of the valve. if you turn it around, you need to move that pressure reference to the other side of the valve. then it'll hold gobs of boost all day long.
 
looks like a nice piece.

im currently running the forge bov with the 1g flange. how do i know if i got the old FLAWED design?

will patrick hook it up too with that new one for free haha
 
Take a look at the bottom of the bov. If the ring with holes in it has the holes all the way through instead of just partway in then you need a new ring. I bought my Forge bov second hand and had absolutely no problems getting the updated ring.
 
put the softest spring in and leave it. pull-type valves are held shut by boost. they can't leak. the softer the spring, the quicker it will respond to pressure changes.

the only reason you'd need a stiffer spring is to hold it closed at idle when you're venting to atmosphere on a MAF car the way you're not supposed to.

That isn't true of this valve. If you look at the 3rd picture you can see the piston as viewed from the charge pipe side of the valve. Once that chamber is pressurized force will be applied along the same axis as the piston is pulled, acting against the flattened portion of the piston surface that is at right angles to the flange. The amount of force is lessened compared to a push style valve.
 
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