Blowing white smoke

[deflator]

My car started blowing tons of white smoke out the exhaust when I started it today. It did it cold and mostly warm (150*). I cannot rule out that is not oil since the smoke doesn't really have a smell other than exhaust, and I use Mobil 1 synthetic which I've heard burns white.

Its probably the headgasket, I lost about a cup of coolant since the last time I ran it. A week ago I also noticed my overflow bottle was full to the top and I had to put a good amount of coolant in the system.

So I'm going to do in this order: check turbo, check oil, compression test, leakdown test

Anything else I should be looking for? I knew I should have gotten those ARPs but it slipped my mind

If its the headgasket, do I just replace that with a cometic or whatever and the ARP headstuds or do is there more involved?

I really would like some advice here, its my first break and I'm pretty bummed since its all my dumb fault

 

[1gDSM4g63]

Do a leak down test.

 

[MrBoxx]

Check your turbo for shaft play.

If it turns out to be the head, that's your decision time: ARP's + decent HG, or stock hardware/gaskets?

 

[deflator]

Definitely will go with the ARPs and a good headgasket, I just don't understand how to tell from the tests if it is the headgasket that is blown

 

[JusMX141]

It's not the turbo- it's definitely the head gasket if you're pushing coolant.

I suggest ARP Studs and a Multi-Layer Steel or OEM gasket. Most importantly....ALWAYS change the valve seals while the head's off. They're often overlooked, and guaranteed to be hard as a brick and leaking oil on any car with over 100K.

The only way to pinpoint the head gasket for sure is to pressurize the cooling system and watch for it to lose pressure, but the dead giveaway in this case is the fact that you're pushing coolant. The compression and boost from the cylinders is getting into the cooling system and pushing the coolant away from the engine and into the recovery tank.

 

[deflator]

It's not the turbo- it's definitely the head gasket if you're pushing coolant.

The compression and boost from the cylinders is getting into the cooling system and pushing the coolant away from the engine and into the recovery tank.

Yeah that happened a couple days ago, I filled the recovery tank almost to the top, so I turned down the boost a few psi and tried it again. It didn't push more than a cup that night, I couldn't even tell if it was in the recovery tank or not.

So just do the headgasket with cometic or MLS and ARPs? Anything other than valve seals I should do while the head is off?

 

[RipperXX]

Do not use cometic.

 

[deflator]

Cometic is $75 marked down from $150 at extemepsi, unless theres a really convincing reason to not get that one its too good to pass up. Of course, this depends on if the block or head is warped and needs to be decked, which I don't really have the money for right now. Maybe the stock mitsu 4 layer w/ARPs is the way to then?

 

[RipperXX]

The reason I say not to go with it, is it does not seal as well as say oh even OEM. I have seen a pressure test done. I can't recall the 3rd competitor but there was cometic OEM mitsu MLS gasket and this other brand, the cometic was worse in some spots than the OEM MLS gasket. Maybe if I am not to lazy in a bit I will look for this and post a link.


*edit* Spent a few min looking, have not found it yet. BUT this is what I am going to use FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain That ISC Titan gaskit with some A1 studs.

 

[jking29]

The reason I say not to go with it, is it does not seal as well as say oh even OEM. I have seen a pressure test done. I can't recall the 3rd competitor but there was cometic OEM mitsu MLS gasket and this other brand, the cometic was worse in some spots than the OEM MLS gasket. Maybe if I am not to lazy in a bit I will look for this and post a link.

It was a Cosworth gasket. Here is the link: Beyond The Dyno All Head Gaskets are Not Created Equal
My suggestion would be a OEM gasket and a set of ARP's. Plenty of people running 400+ on that set up reliably.

 

[RipperXX]

Sweet there we go thanks jking29.


So in short.
Cometic < OEM < Cosworth ? SCE's Titan


Me however I am going with the SCE titan gaskit and A1's. Sure it's a bit pricey & over kill. But then I don't ever want to have to pull my head again for a damn blown HG. EVER!

 

[dsm-onster]

OEM headgasket and headstuds are good for 500ish whp all day long. Even fel-pro or parstdinosaur.co $16 composite gaskets have seen 30psi and daily abuse with arp headstuds here.

If you want to run a MLS gasket, you HAVE to deck the head and insure both the head and block has the minimum RA finish. So yea, more is involved in upgrading to a MLS headgasket. MLS has it's place. Unless your goal merits it, why bother with all that machine work just to do it again if you have to pull the head again for countless other reasons?

EDIT: I mean real headstuds. OEM headclamps are bolts not studs . ARP headstuds are one headstud option.

 

[erald01]

The OEM headgasket are good but the OEM headstuds are only good up to 20 psi, and anything more most likely they will give up. ARP is the way to go.

 

[deflator]

Okay, so once again its OEM FTW. All I have planned for the immediate future is one of the new FP 18GSL2 turbos and 24-26psi so that and better headstuds should hold easily.

Thanks guys, now any tips for someone pulling a head for the first time?

 

[RipperXX]

VFAQ.com

 

[deflator]

I guess what I'm really wondering if its worth it to get the head refreshed at a machine shop and how much that would cost about and what it should include. The car has 113k and I think at least one valve has been tapping for awhile. Also what are some mild, inexpensive mods that might be worthwhile to do to the head while its out

 

[jking29]

3g lifters, a 3 or 5 angle valve job, valve seals and a resurface. If you are wanting to step up to the next level, cams springs and retainers also.