cyclone intake

[Deathstar]

I'm putting a JDM motor in my 2G, I'm debating on 1G manifold or cyclone. I need to know if anyone has successfully installed a cyclone manifold in this application. Pics or some vacuum/wiring diagrams would be helpful. Thanks in advance.
Chad

 

[Tallen]

cant run the cyclone on a stock ECU. either need the japanese ecu or rig it to work....just get a 1g

 

[Deathstar]

I have a 1g. And if I just wanted the standard answer " get a ### ecu" , I wouldn't have posted. This is the advanced forum, and I want to know if there is any info other than get a 1g out there. I am very capable of doing the necessary work to complete this job. And if I have to rig it, I still need some info on the wiring and vacuum lines. But thanks for your help Matt.

 

[Tevenor]

The manifold is open at atmospheric pressure. At vaccum the runners close and you have a smaller faster runner. As soon as any boost comes on, the runners open. The JDM ECU uses a solenoid and a vaccum canister to act as a bleeder. The ECU opens the solenoid to let boost pressure by and open the runners. This way it can control at which boost pressure the solenoid opens and hence when the secondary runners open.

 

[GalantVR41062]

see "1G head flow numbers and intake designs...long" and find out your better off with the stock intake or a sheet metal or the new cast intake manifold, porting dosn't get you much for the time/cash need to do so, and the cyclone did not do so hot ither. Good luck

 

[Deathstar]

OK I understand how the intake works, does anyone know of a place that will give me how to's to install the intake instead of flow differences, use a 1g, etc.... Even if I use the 1g, what about proper routing of the vacuum lines and the sensor on top of the intake. I appreciate the info on operation and flow and all that, but what about actual install info. I know that it has been done, and all I need is the install info. Thanks

 

[Tevenor]

Originally posted by Deathstar
OK I understand how the intake works, does anyone know of a place that will give me how to's to install the intake instead of flow differences, use a 1g, etc.... Even if I use the 1g, what about proper routing of the vacuum lines and the sensor on top of the intake. I appreciate the info on operation and flow and all that, but what about actual install info. I know that it has been done, and all I need is the install info. Thanks

And with that delightful post, this thread has been moved.

 

[ho chi inn]

there are 2 sides to this intake, install, and getting it to work. first off, IT WILL NOT OUTFLOW THE STOCK INTAKE. the stock intake will outflow the cyclone by about 2 cfm. yipee. extrude honed will outflow the stock intake by about 4 cfm. yipee. what the cyclone WILL do, is greatly improve driveability, especially low and midrange, AND, for me, greatly increase fuel economy, ESPECIALLY at hiway cruise. so, since you are asking about making it work, here it is.
basically, you have to keep the butterflies closed until certain rpm or boost levels are reached, then they open. you MUST have the blue/white cannister to make this work. this is a vacuum resevoir AND a one way valve. you will also need different ign wire set, i got them from kingsborne, 25 bucks shipped. you will need to slightly relocate the coil, and the output transistor bracket is nice, but you can make the us one work. if you dont have the blue/white cannister, forget it. it AINT gonna work.
the first line goes from the acutator to the inlet of the blue/white cannister(call this line 1). then, from the other outlet on the cannister, it goes to a vacuum/boost port on the intake(line 2). i installed a solenoid(fuel purge solenoid works perfect for this), normally open. then, i took a second solenoid(boost control solenoid works perfect for this), normally closed. i teed into line 2 for the input to this solenoid, and the output side i teed into line 1. both solenoids are controlled by a hobbs pressure switch, set at about 6 lbs boost. here is how it works. normal driving around and light boost, the hobbs switch is closed, the vacuum keeps the butterflies closed. when the system goes to the boost setting, the hobbs switch closes, current goes to the first solenoid, it closes, the second solenoid opens, and since the feed line is now boost, line 1 is now pressure, forcing the actuator to open the butterflies.
i hooked up my vacuum/boost gauge to line 1 off the the actuator, so i could set when the butterflies open. also, i have water injection, and i have a green lite that comes on when the wi is spraying. i set the hobbs switch so that it shows 0 right when the green lite comes on. the actuator does not open quickly, it opens slowly, so the system is starting to open at about 4 lbs boost, and is full open by about 8 lbs boost, right where my wi starts to spray.
the car will pull clean from very low rpms, and i find myself shifting earlier. were i used to be in 2nd, now i am in 3rd, etc. also, when i am at or near boost levels, like part throttle in 3rd but still with high vacuum, when i go wot, the response is tremendous. the turbo spools quicker, and the power comes on sooner. the transtition is so smooth, i cant tell when the butterflies open. since i am not a racer, i am more interested in all around driveability, and not wot. i recently converted over to the 2g mas and 550's, and the response is really good.
remember, this is NOT an easy bolt on.

 

[tanner261]

I have a Cyclone manifold and have decided against installing it on my 1G after puting in 9:1 pistons. Like ho chi inn stated above, I can cruise around town in a gear higher and useable power is about 1k RPM lower than before. I get full boost on a ported 16G at 2,600 RPM. I see no reason to need the cyclone intake in my application.

Also, from the small amount of knowledge I've gathered, variable runner length is used for RPM tuning on N/A cars and has nothing to do with engine vacuum. There may be a exception for boosted engines, but it seems counterproductive for a turbo car to switch the butterflys at 'x' boost. When you go WOT after 4k RPM, you get full boost instantly <-all the while it took your butterflies 'x' seconds to switch open. Seems like it would not be good for tuning. The speed of the pressure pulse in the intake manifold is RPM based, no?

 

[Deathstar]

Thank you very much for the info, it was exactly what I was looking for. Does anyone have some info on wiring this install since it is going in a 2g car? Ho Chi Inn, I appreciate the the time you took to get that all written down, it was perfect info.

 

[ho chi inn]

Originally posted by tanner261
I have a Cyclone manifold and have decided against installing it on my 1G after puting in 9:1 pistons. Like ho chi inn stated above, I can cruise around town in a gear higher and useable power is about 1k RPM lower than before. I get full boost on a ported 16G at 2,600 RPM. I see no reason to need the cyclone intake in my application.

Also, from the small amount of knowledge I've gathered, variable runner length is used for RPM tuning on N/A cars and has nothing to do with engine vacuum. There may be a exception for boosted engines, but it seems counterproductive for a turbo car to switch the butterflys at 'x' boost. When you go WOT after 4k RPM, you get full boost instantly <-all the while it took your butterflies 'x' seconds to switch open. Seems like it would not be good for tuning. The speed of the pressure pulse in the intake manifold is RPM based, no?

since turbo cars run lower compression, one of the reasons for the cyclone is to overcome the effect of lower compression. however, another galant owner, who has a built motor, and has gone high 11's, uses the cyclone with a halltech. his reasons is because of the extra fuel economy he gets with it. fuel economy was the main reason i went to it, the added benefits is the much improved driveability in low and mid range, much like what you are probabaly getting with higher compression. but this way, i dont have to open up the motor or spend the extra money to have pistons put in. also, running a ported big 16g, i also get boost at about the same level, but only if i am pushing it. most of the time, i am only at partial boost, the butterflies are still closed, and the car is much smoother and more responsive than before. the real benefit comes on steady highway cruise, i have picked up about 5 mpg on reformulated pos gas. as far as tuning goes, i tune by logger, using o2 trim and fuel trims for low side, and knock and timing for wot. with the 2g mas and 550's, i get better fuel economy than with the stock 1g and 450's, and way better performance, timing at wot is 23 and 0 knock. i am STILL tuning for wot, and still leaning it out. bottom line, i would do it again, the cyclone to me is well worth it.

 

[ho chi inn]

Originally posted by Deathstar
Thank you very much for the info, it was exactly what I was looking for. Does anyone have some info on wiring this install since it is going in a 2g car? Ho Chi Inn, I appreciate the the time you took to get that all written down, it was perfect info.

the wiring should not be a problem, since it will be separate from everything else, you would just need a 12v supply for the solenoids, controlled by the hobbs switch. i missed the part about it going on a 2g, you may have fitment problems with the manifold actually going on the 2g head, besides the clearance problems with the a/c compressor, surge tank bracket, and the ign coil. dunno about the 2g, but getting the stock manifold off was a beyatch, and getting the cyclone on was worse. i had to disassemble it to get it on with the motor in the car. later on, i put another motor in the car and it was a lot easier when the motor is on the stand.

 

[zac83]

why do people think g-vr4s and lancers are good autox cars? one of the reasons is that dual runner intake that yields great low-mid torque and allows high end flow... dont knock the cyclones guys, they're beautiful pieces of work.