SOLID front/rear aluminum motor mounts!

[blcknspo0ln]

After disliking my prothane front/rear inserts, I decided to try and make my own mounts by shooting some industrial polyurethane into the mounts themselves. Before I could be warned against the curing characteristics, the mount was already dried on the outside but still very pliable on the inside. To anyone who reads this, you need to put the polyurethane on in thin layers and let them cure before adding a big gob on. Anyway, after hating how soft they were, I set out to find a new solution. Me and turbosax spoke about using solid poly rods as fillers. Although a great solution, it was brought to my attention that biglady did solid aluminum motor mounts for colts. So a couple PMs later, I now have my set of immaculate, perfect fitting solid aluminum motor mounts and let me tell you, it took an hour to install, but damn shifting never felt so good. The motor no longer chucks around, even if you shift gears and dump the clutch, no hesitation and no sloppiness. The benefits FAR outweigh the little extra vibration felt in the cabin as soon as the car gets past cruising RPMs. This is by far my favorite shifting/drive mod. Thanks again Steven !!

[turbosax2]

Haha, I was just about to pm you again to see if you made any progress. They look great!

How did you install them - with a press?

[snowborder714]

Dang those look good!!

You didn't have any trouble installing them back into the engine bay, did you? I know with the Prothanes, you have to sometimes force the mounts back in.

[blcknspo0ln]

Crap was it you turbosax? sorry I forgot who I spoke to about it

I sent biglady my mounts and they came back exactly as pictured. They were pressed in, drilled, and the rear mount was welded (I guess they had to split it to get it on?). LOVE IT!

btw, if you angle the engine/trans right, you don't have to put any force on anything to get 'em to slide in

[turbosax2]

Ya, it was me but it was over a month ago so I'll let you slide this time

I just sent biglady a pm to see if he can hook me up too

[silver bullit]

Got a link for a place that sells them?

[turboglenn]

Very nice looking mounts. The only thing i'd watch for is the aluminum starting to "round out" at the bolt holes, but if tolerances are tight enough there shouldn't be much wear Are they made of 6061 or 7075? or do you know?

I don't think anyone sells them, he said biglady made them for him. Depending on the cost of aluminum stock in the correct size i might be able to make some for myslef should i decide i don't like teh prothanes, but for now they are satisfactory.

[biglady112]

Hea guys. I can't take credit for these. I just take them to the machine shop, explain how each set needs to be done and have him take notes, then pick them up when they get to them. This is a high volume fab shop. These mounts are so cheap he isn't really doing himself a favor, but he likes our projects and is always willing to help. I told him I would bring as many as I could to offset the cost of his excellent pricing. I believe Toan's set was the fifth set so far.

And a few folks have honestly had concerns about the 'softness' of the metal. After over 1000 miles in my colt, I have seen no issues. We could make the bolt holes tighter, but we cut the EXACTLY at the factory spec for the holes for ease of installation and service. Which Toan mentioned above they just slide right in.

I am willing to help as many guys out as I can. I set this up and make ZERO profit on these. I don't do the work, so I can't justify making money. I just ask that each person pay their own shipping and cover any paypal fees. I can be contacted through pm or offline for more information.

I have not asked, but for the guys that are worried, I am sure we could have them insert steel rather than aluminum. The reason why Toan's rear mount had to be welded, was when they went to press it in, the steel ring began to move. So they put some tacks on there to keep her still. After being pressed in, I am sure the welds are no longer needed. But we left them to be sure.

Steven

[gsxAWDdsm692]

Spo0oln drive over to Pa and let me check out what the vibration is like. pweaseee

[bmoha2]

I like 'em! I want to do this as well! My only question is; why doesn't someone just make complete mounts out of cnc'd aluminum?

[cotsi95]

biglady how uch would it be for a local? Im in fort collins so i can drop them off my self.

[spoonman]

They are very nice mounts but, with the ability to weld and less than $20 for a sheet of steel you can fabricate steel walls to cover both of the open sides of the mount. The positive effects from solid mounts are amazing thought, especially if you have a six puck.

[biglady112]

There was an overwhelming response. I will just put it out there in this thread.

I do not have a price on a steel insert at this time. Monday I can put a call in and see if they would be willing to do this.

I MAKE ZERO PROFIT off these. I just do this out of the kindness of my heart. We have done 3 sets of CSM mounts, 1 set of 1G mounts and a set of 2G mounts. All that is needed is the front and rear roll stop. These can be made to spec, but as I said before, we mirror them to the stock rubber insert for ease of use.

I make each person pay their own shipping each way and cover any fees with paypal and what not. I ship everything in a flat rate USPS box. It has been $8.95 for shipping back to the owners. Toan is in New Jersey, and that is about as far away from me as possible for post office shipping. Even then it only took 2 1/2 days.

Just give me a buzz gentlemen. I can make traction a reality for even you AWD guys.

Steven Johnson
biglady112@yahoo.com
720-299-7057

[dsm-onster]

I can't vouch for these. But my own welded steal motormounts don't vibrate NEARLY as much as I would have thought. They're just steel-on-steel. Having B shafts help. There's really no sympathetic noise in the cab at all. So if you can get solid mouts better than my home welding, you're obviously going to be pleased . It looks great! My solids helped my wheel hop tremendously. And The shifting was phenominal! took away the "notchyness" almost completely. Not all of it. It's still a DSM.

Another great thing is that I literally broke my front polyurethane-filled rollstop several times at 35ish+ lbs/min, but now I don't have any worries. Again these solid mounts look great!

[romeen]

Nice, I think I'm convinced.

Guys who have the solid mounts, do you think the vibrations are much worse than the polyurethane mounts?

Steven, what is the approximate total turnaround time?

Do you guys think it's ok to leave the motor supported by the jack/wood block under the oil pan method for the time it takes to do this?

[dsm-onster]

Well, it's not like it puts a smile on my wife's face or anything, but there IS more vibration than poly by a small margin in my case. For both welded and poly, the noise seams to leave during highway driving for me.

[blcknspo0ln]

Originally Posted by romeen

Do you guys think it's ok to leave the motor supported by the jack/wood block under the oil pan method for the time it takes to do this?

No no and no Guess how I learned out about that!? I've flat bottomed more oil pans than I care to admit. To be perfectly honest, Once you remove the front and rear mounts, the subframe cross member will support the weight no problem.

[dsm-onster]

What!? Does this happen ???



It would have been much worse had not we been checking as we were pulling mounts. Now, I use my engine hoist.

Two jacks and a short 2X8 with another jack under the tranny has worked with my brothers car, though. Held the tranny/engine assembly for a month while we ordered parts.

[romeen]

Originally Posted by blcknspo0ln

To be perfectly honest, Once you remove the front and rear mounts, the subframe cross member will support the weight no problem.

Do you think 2 weeks would be too long to leave it supported like that?

Edit: OK, just saw your last post.