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NEED ADVICE on 6Bolt swap...

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XTurboSpYderX

20+ Year Contributor
805
4
Sep 19, 2002
Anchorage, Alaska
before I get flamed... I already read the VFAQ... and I searched this site's past threads... my cornhole has finally been violated by the whore that is crankwalk... and instead of replacing thrust bearings til' I die... I am going to go 6bolt bottom w/95 pistons and keep my 2G head... now... what I am LOOKING for... is any helpful information from people that have done this... things that will save me a headache, or time, or money... or anything that you feel that I should know before I tackle this project... thanks in advance...
 
My advice is to that if you are looking to have minimal downtime to acquire all the needed parts before starting. Mind you, you will have those shite I forgot that part moments, but that happens. Also factor in the cost of using new parts instead of used or old parts. IE; tensioner, tensioner arm, head studs, water pump and things of this nature. The swap itself can be lowly budgeted but when you factor in the cost of using new parts it can greatly increase the budget needed. I know this may not be the awww inspiring advice you were looking for, but if you have any experience "working" LOL, on cars then there really isn't anything special involved. Good luck and have fun!
 
Originally posted by ILOSE
I know this may not be the awww inspiring advice you were looking for, but if you have any experience "working" LOL, on cars then there really isn't anything special involved. Good luck and have fun!


that was almost exactally what I was looking for... I just wanted to make sure there wasn't anything odd (other than trimming the motormount to clear the 1G water pump) before I started, and realized, SH!T... I need to shim this, or shave that, or I should have gotten one of these to replace that one... just simple no brainer stuff that others who have done this swap have missed... thanks you guys...
 
I did this same swap recently. Put 6 bolt JDM shortblock into my '95Talon TSi AWD using the 2g head, intake & exhaust, but 14b turbo. Used the Magnus method. Two issues that I encountered that I had not expected:

1. I had to rig up an external air/oil cooler since my 6 bolt JDM was a '91 and didn't have the same water/oil cooler arrangement as my '95. Used a B&M cooler that I just happened to have on the shelf in anticipation of a different project.

2. After doing the 1g CAS implant/splice into the 2g per the Magnus method, I've had recurring CEL's due to misfire. Am currently waiting for the return of my ECU w/DSMLink (which appears to be awesome), but that's another $600 that I hadn't counted on. Car runs great until the CEL comes on.

Shoot me an email at [email protected] if you have any specific questions on the swap and I'd be glad to shae further experiences.

Jim
 
thanks a ton bro... I was looking at doing an air/oil cooler anyway... I am glad you mentioned that...

what exactally are you having done to your ECU? are you going DSMlink to DIAGNOSE the problem, or do you think that it will FIX the problem??
 
Doing the DSMLink to both "fix" the problem, but also to benefit from the many other features of DSMLink including fuel/timing control, datalogging, and more. DSMLink has the ability to turn off the DTC's associated with misfire (as well as other things). I don't need further diagnosis as I'm convinced that this is exactly what I need because the car runs great until the 2g ECU decides to check for misfire(over 60mph) and then goes into limp mode. I've got a OBDII scanner and can readily read and reset the codes. Suggest that you do a search on "random misfire" to learn more about this problem which is very common for the 1g swap. Also, if you're doing a 1g swap, you should join the Yahoo 1gina2g mail group. Lot's of good info there. I am not aware of any other permanent/effective solution to the misfire problem other than DSMLink. I tried the baro mod on the Magnus page, but it didn't work for me, plus it's a little dangerous.

When you go DSMLink, you have to send your '95 ECU in and they "socket in" and swap a new EPROM with the DSM Link program. You have to have a '95 ECU to use DSMLink, as it utilizes an EPROM.
 
I was looking into a complete stand alone.. like the Haltec E6, or the TEC3... would it be difficult to dial a standalon ein with the hybrid block?
 
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