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AFPR Install a few questions first

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DsmKid98GST

15+ Year Contributor
133
3
Aug 25, 2005
Winter Springs, Florida
I have the Aeromotive FPR package with the firewall setup from Extreme PSI.

I read all the articles that the search came up with. I understand to purge the system by removing the connector to the fuel pump and turning the car over to relieve pressure before removal of the FPR. I understand all the procedures what to do while setting it up, I just don't know exactly where everything is in the engine bay.

I am the type of person that if I don't have an example infront of me I feel lost, as I do now. I thought I'd ask if there was anyone who had pictures to help with the install process before I start. Thanks.
 
follow the lines from the fuel rail, and you'll see it. The stock regulator is mounted on the drivers side of the fuel rail, and there is a line that goes from there to the firewall (return to tank). On the other side of the rail, a line will go to the fuel filter. It's pretty simple. Only other thing is the vacuum line going from the FPR to the intake manifold.

Just take a look at your car and you will see it. It's more straightforward than you think. You'll probably have more trouble finding a good place to mount the FPR than anything else. ;)
 
Thanks for the tips. I checked it out, it seemed pretty simple. I searched a bit more and found some useful info also.

My problem now is that one side of the steel braided tube is frayed and I don't know what to cut it with to try to get the fitting on again. Any ideas?
 
Wrap where you want to cut in masking tape and grab a cutoff disc and a dremel. That's how i've read to cut it. Although i don't know if you need to put anything inside it though.
 
Yes, wrap the spot with electrical tape, and cut it with a cutting disc, I would also use a vise so you don't cut your hand from holding it. Make sure its a straight cut. I would also cut it so there is still some electric tape on the SS brasided line so it is hidden after you slide the AN fitting over the end. Oh yeah and one more thing, most people with areomotive AFPRs don't know it but they leak a little at the adjustment rod. To fix this you have to do this...when setting the base fuel pressure to 43.5psi (vacuum line disconnected, and plugged), when you hit 43.5psi mark the adjustment rod flush to the FPR body, then unscrew it and teflon tape the threads to just below the mark you made, then screw the rod back into the 43.5psi mark, then tighten the lock nut down tight, but make sure the adjustment rod doesnt move any when tightening the lock nut. This will prevent any pressure from escaping from this point, and a very accurate 1:1 fuel pressure rise.

Dustin
 
No problem guys, hope it helps, and its great because it will make sure your 1:1 ratio stays true. You can get cutting disc's from Home Depot, get metal cutting disc's, it should be in the power tool section (atleast thats where it is for my Home Depot)

Dustin
 
fourreGsixty3 said:
Yes, wrap the spot with electrical tape, and cut it with a cutting disc, I would also use a vise so you don't cut your hand from holding it. Make sure its a straight cut. I would also cut it so there is still some electric tape on the SS brasided line so it is hidden after you slide the AN fitting over the end.......
Dustin

This is right on. Make sure you wrap the end about 5 times with ONLY electrical tape and cut in the middle of the tape so the end stays taped close. When you go to put the fittings on the line put a little assembly lube or grease on the taped end and on the inside of the fitting.

Good Luck.
 
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