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Head Gasket

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BlackRaptor

15+ Year Contributor
203
1
Apr 18, 2005
Owatonna, Minnesota
Just got my self a 96 Eclpise GST now i have two boosted cars.

I've never worked on the 4G63.
I need to put a head gasket in this car. How hard is it? can i replace the head gasket without taking the motor out of the engine bay?
Thanks guys
 
Yeah you can, but it's still involved. You 'll more than likely have to retime the motor and remove almost everything around the motor. intake, intercooler piping, turbo, exhaust and intake manifolds, downpipe, radiator, P/S pump, alternator, all belts, timing stuff, then pull the head.

Make sure your fluids weren't mixing... or you might have some burn bearings too.
 
Doesn't look like much mixed in.
Also once it blew the guy trailered it back to the shop and parked it, didn't get driven.
Just finished a total rebuild pistons valves everything on this 420A so head gasket should be easy after all i've done to this car.
 
If you have no problems with the 420a timing belt, you will find the 4g63 a breeze. More room, no pulley to pull off (just unbolts) better all around (IMO). I leave the intake mani on when I pull the head. I have seen other's that leave the intake AND the exhaust mani on. It's pretty straight forward.

I have tried it the "zip tie belt to the pulleys" way (just to see if I liked it). Hated it. Definitely harder and I always had that thought in the back of my head of not being able to see if there was a slip on the crank pulley. Eh, I don't find the timing belt job on these cars to be that bad anyway.

MB
 
95GSXBLUR said:
Yeah you can, but it's still involved. You 'll more than likely have to retime the motor and remove almost everything around the motor. intake, intercooler piping, turbo, exhaust and intake manifolds, downpipe, radiator, P/S pump, alternator, all belts, timing stuff, then pull the head.

Make sure your fluids weren't mixing... or you might have some burn bearings too.

Um when was the last time you replaced a head gasket?

only thing u have to pull is the exhaust and intake manifolds, UICP, the thermostat housing, fuel and electrical connections......

Taking the intake manifold for the 1st time is major PITA since there is a support bracket that attaches to the bottom of the intake mani and back of the block:notgood:
 
95GSXBLUR said:
Yeah you can, but it's still involved. You 'll more than likely have to retime the motor and remove almost everything around the motor. intake, intercooler piping, turbo, exhaust and intake manifolds, downpipe, radiator, P/S pump, alternator, all belts, timing stuff, then pull the head.

Make sure your fluids weren't mixing... or you might have some burn bearings too.


The last time I pulled my head, I got it off in about 45 minutes and back on to running condition in about 2 hours (took a dinner break). Take off your UICP, fuel line, sensors, upper radiator hose, and the 4-bolts that hold your turbo to your exhaust manifold and after removing the timing belt and head studs you can lift your head off with both intake and exhaust manifolds together. That way you can leave your turbo and downpipe installed. You do not need to remove your power steering pump, radiator, or alternator. As far as your accessory belts and timing belt cover, that really isn't that hard of a job either.

If you have a weekend set aside for a head gasket job, I'd say anyone who is mechanically inclined and has a good shop manual should be up for the job. Way cheaper than taking it to a shop.
 
That's right, leave the intake manifold and exhaust/turbo/o2 on the head and pull everything off with help or a cherry picker. If you're careful and have the timing tool, you can even do it without removing your timing components.
 
wow that sounds really easy

So other then head bolts head gasket and valve cover gaskets any others i need if i leave the manifold and intake on?
 
Since you need to replace the OEM head bolts anyway, I'd suggest splurging for ARPs (studs) as will give you greater clamping of the head from both ends, and are reusable incase you have to misfortune of having to do this again in the future :cry: :dsm:
 
I agree with John, for the price of new OEM bolts you could get a new set of ARP studs that hold more and are re-useable.

Both ImportEvolution and ExtremePSI have had them on my doorstep about 3 days after I've ordered them.
 
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