4g63 cold air intake done right !!!!

[Jaraxle]

Ok guys.
This is off the cuff. I wasn't gonna let this one out of the bag. It is so friggin cheap, and the results are amazing! You won't be dissapointed I assure you. It looks sweet too !

Here is what I used:

1.) Apexi air filter or any with a 2.75" intake that you can clamp/zip tie some flex hose to
2.) 90 degree chrome elbow from autozone (spectre intake parts)
3.) Flex intake tubing from autozone (spectre intake parts)
4.) FMIC ( ! air filter goes where smic was !)
5.) 2g maf to 2.75" adaptor (ebay item) I had one in a box in the garage. Lucky me.
6.) some 3/16" vaccume hose
7.) Dremel with tungsten carbine cutting bit and large cutting wheel disks
8.) Normal drill and a bit to start your dremel cutting

1.) Cut the hole in the right friggin spot. Make a starter hole with a normal drill.
That dremel never ceases to amaze me. Wear SAFETY glasses. Hot metal will be flying around !
The bit will also work itself out of the dremel, since the angle of the grooves make it pull. Have fun.
2.) Cut the vaccume hose lengthwise and to the proper length to "gasket" the hole you cut. This makes sure the metal doesn't cut through your new piping/hose and it cleans up the image.
3.) You get the rest. Secure the air filter where the smic was. The air filter is now sucking COLD air that is being blasted on it from our bumper opening.
4.) I installed the NA eclipse block-off on that side. I was nervous about heavy rain on the air filter. At the track I can quickly remove it, but I don't think it hurts anything to have it there (according to ecu).

My intake temps DROPPED LIKE A ROCK. I was reading 114+ degrees. After this mod, I always measure whatever AMBIENT temperature is. Lately I've been making some changes....so I can't be 100% certain. But I believe this either was the reason (or assisted) in ridding my KNOCK I was having. It wouldn't suprise me given the drastic inlet temperature change. The power change is noticable. The throttle response is improved.

If you BURY the front end of your car in water (the hole bumper)....well your an idiot then.

Everyone has their "performance" air filter sucking HOT engine heat. It's just no good. I know we have to usually because of the intercooler piping. This is the solution.

Here are the pictures of 1000 words:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/fil..._air_close.JPG
http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/fil...5/COLD_AIR.JPG

-Jaraxle

[RamenPride]

Originally Posted by Jaraxle

Ok guys.
This is off the cuff. I wasn't gonna let this one out of the bag.

I've seen this done before. Nice job, though.

[tstkl]

Im just going to keep the air filter there and have hella ducting directing air to the filter, but yea, this works too. Probably better, but who knows, we'll see.

[2fast4]

Thanks for the input. I have seen this somewhere b4 but you done it too.
I'm curious if gas mileage improves as well, too. Let us know

[Jaraxle]

I'm getting 30mpg ! Which is nuts because I'm pushing 300-350hp from this sucker. I'm measuring this tank of gas too, cause I can't believe I'm getting that much. That is mixed highway and city.

I know this has been done before. The difference with this one, is that all you need is a stop to autozone (which surprised me) to make this setup look pimp !

-Jaraxle

[CyberEye]

That's one way to do it. With my 1g I just ran it almost straight off the turbo through the plastic splash gaurd on the inner fender, and into the old SMIC location. Less bends that way.

[Boosted98gsx]

I prefer to get true 3" mandrel bends and do it myself. Luckily I have 2 180's sitting next to me

[2fast4]

Originally Posted by Jaraxle

I'm getting 30mpg ! Which is nuts because I'm pushing 300-350hp from this sucker. I'm measuring this tank of gas too, cause I can't believe I'm getting that much. That is mixed highway and city.

I know this has been done before. The difference with this one, is that all you need is a stop to autozone (which surprised me) to make this setup look pimp !

-Jaraxle

That's an excellent review I believe GST gets about 25mpg before this mod.

Do you see better spool up and less knocks on pump gas? (I got to do 2g MAF swap soon)

[Talesin]

You could also do just about the same with a short amount of rubber tubing (4" or so) and some PVC pipe from Home Despot. Tubing's mostly there to act as a heat buffer between the compressor housing and the plastic. Kinda like making a boost leak tester. But better. Eliminates the flex-snorkel effect, and probably is a good bit less pricey than Autozone bits, especially if you don't own a welder to make one up from metal... after all, PVC cement is way easier to work with. A few places are selling prefabs for $80 or so... complete ripoff, IMO.

[Jaraxle]

Off boost response is improved. Boost was always quick, so not sure about that.
I already mentioned above about knock.

Here are the parts from the manufacturer:

http://www.powerflowracing.com/prtdetail.asp?PD=688
http://www.powerflowracing.com/prtdetail.asp?PD=700

For some reason I can't find them on the autozone site. The total investment here is under 40 bucks. If that's breaking your bank, then I dunno what. There is no glue or welding involved here.
Well worth the $$$. I know this has been done before. This just looks nicer than just tubing or glued up pvc.

-Jaraxle

[thekellbeast]

Turbo engines really do love cold air. We have twin 2800 hp diesels on our boat, and they're set up with open K&N filters. When we turn on the supply fans to the engine room (blow cold ambient air onto the engine) we see 30 degree drops in air temps, post aftercooler.

And these are air-sea water aftercoolers, which are efficient as hell already.

BTW, engines are CAT 3516's, twin turbo V-16.

Shots of the engine room from the cutter's homepage

http://www.uscg.mil/d1/units/cgcjeff...s/Page2949.htm

[RedTurboEclipse]

Would just running air duct pipe from the opening ont he bumper to the stock filter location be the same results? or just not as good as actually having the filter where the stock smic use to be?

[Talesin]

Yeah, just something about using yet another rubber snorkel to replace the one you just got rid of that rubs me the wrong way.

That and using Autozone 'performance brand' parts. Might be okay if you need an OEM replacement sensor in a pinch, but 'Autozone' and 'performance' don't really go together in my mind.

No, relocating the filter to the stock SMIC ductway is MUCH better than running a new air-guide. It's surrounded by cold, fresh air in that ductway. A LITERAL cold-air intake, as opposed to the AEM crap that gets pushed, and doesn't even get the filter out of the (hot air filled) engine bay. Combine that with a blowthrough setup, and you've got improved spool AND denser air, starting out cooler, leading to a cooler charge for your FMIC to handle more easily.
Obviously rainy days can be an issue, and puddles.. I plan to make a new box and ducting with a splashguard out of thin sheet metal and tinsnips, or just keep a spare short pipe in the trunk. Wouldn't take long to switch back and forth, if I get too lazy to make the box.

[exile]

I'm sure you can get a peice of pipe to replace the rubber hose, I think he used it to cut his costs and avoid welding if needed.

But yeah, there's no way I'd use a rubber duct after spending so much on a metal intake.

Really good idea though and I'm going to try it asap.

That and using Autozone 'performance brand' parts.

I'd like you to convince me that a peice of pipe from Dejon Tool or Mach V is better than a pipe of the exact same dimensions but sold in Autozone or made by XSPower.

A pipe is a pipe. They are the same metal, same dimensions, and both are smooth on the inside.

[RedTurboEclipse]

Thought you knew brand names add about 20 more hp.

[flacopower]

Originally Posted by RedTurboEclipse

Thought you knew brand names add about 20 more hp.

lol i know right! well i just made a cai myself and i am going to use sheet metal to shield underneath and behind the filter. I got this idea from a friend who had a cai on his celica...since i have a huge fmic i only used 7 bolts (5 in the middle and then one on each side) to hold up my bumper. I'm going to get a for sale sign and then modify it so that no water can get to the filter from underneath or from the wheel spinning. I might even try to fab up some ducting...depends on how lazy i get lol.

[92lzerNA]

Originally Posted by Jaraxle

If you BURY the front end of your car in water (the hole bumper)....well your an idiot then.

-Jaraxle

IF you live in an area like mine after a good rain storm you cant go anywhere without running into a place that will submerge your bumper(The only way to get out of my neighbor hood is to go over train tracks and you will hit divits where the water pools during these stroms). So If you have the same problem as me this is a great idea but I will need one of these.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric.../Bypass_Valves

Great Idea. I love it.

[PSI NRG]

Yes i would highly advise you have some sort of bypass valve turbos suck alot of air and I'd hate to see you hydrolock your motor due to a great mod. Play it safe and run a valve or at least don't drive in wet weather

[larsrya8]

Originally Posted by 92lzerNA

So If you have the same problem as me this is a great idea but I will need one of these.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric.../Bypass_Valves

Great Idea. I love it.

Originally Posted by PSI NRG

Yes i would highly advise you have some sort of bypass valve turbos suck alot of air and I'd hate to see you hydrolock your motor due to a great mod. Play it safe and run a valve or at least don't drive in wet weather

Except... the vacuum at the filter during boost is high enough to have the bypass be open the whole time. So it doesn't work on a turbo car, just N/A applications.

You could try that K&N filter condom to keep some water off. Submerging the filter would still be a problem though. That's why I'm just going to run ducting through the SMIC hole when I get my FMIC. Then I don't have to worry about the random Wisconsin weather dictating when I can and can't drive my car.

[92lzerNA]

Originally Posted by larsrya8

Except... the vacuum at the filter during boost is high enough to have the bypass be open the whole time. So it doesn't work on a turbo car, just N/A applications.
.

Oh Snap I think your right. That does make sence.

[flacopower]

Originally Posted by PSI NRG

turbos suck alot of air and I'd hate to see you hydrolock your motor due to a great mod.

how would you hydrolock your motor? i also figured the worst thing that would happen was that my turbine wheel would get destroyed.. for you to hydrolock your motor wouldn't the water have to go through the turbo, out the hot side, into the fmic, back up to the tb, then into the intake mani, and then into the head??

[suicidal2af]

Originally Posted by larsrya8

Except... the vacuum at the filter during boost is high enough to have the bypass be open the whole time. So it doesn't work on a turbo car, just N/A applications.

You could try that K&N filter condom to keep some water off. Submerging the filter would still be a problem though. That's why I'm just going to run ducting through the SMIC hole when I get my FMIC. Then I don't have to worry about the random Wisconsin weather dictating when I can and can't drive my car.

AEM's bypass valve very explicitly says not to use it on turbo applications.

Why? The vac on it gets so high that the turbo ingests it.

[spendone]

I dont drive my car in the rain so Im not worried about water. What I did was flip my 3" hard pipe upside down with a 90 degree 3" pipe and BAM! 3" cold air.

[flacopower]

so can you hydrolock your motor??

[RedTurboEclipse]

This will not work with the K&N fpik adapter/filter right? Becaues its a weird shape? It's been so long that I forgot if it was a different shape and what not.

[spendone]

Originally Posted by spendone

I dont drive my car in the rain so Im not worried about water.

as stated.

[staticbrainwash]

In order to actually hydrolock a motor, the whole filter would have to be submerged enough to actually pull water all the way through the CIA, through the intercooler, and into the motor. So unless you're driving through tsunami style flooding, i think it would be ok. Maybe just a little performance hinderance from a slightly wet filter element. But i think the chances of hydrolocking a motor from just hitting a puddle or from rain are incredibly slight.

That being said, I don't think it's a bad idea to create an "isolation" type of box with ducting to keep rain and water out, maybe with one way slats in the box to let water drain but not re-enter.

[larsrya8]

The other issue is if the air metering sensor would like having tiny drops of water coming in contact with it (as opposed to a huge stream of water). I know for a fact that the GM MAF sensor HATES having water on it, and retaliates by giving you wildly irregular airflow readings. The stock DSM MAS might fare better...

[staticbrainwash]

But consider how much piping water would have to travel through to get to a gm-mas in blowthru configuration, it still just don't seem like that big of a worry.

[flacopower]

by using logic i was pretty much sure that it would be nearly impossible to hydrolock your motor.. however, the stock maf never even crossed my mind.. if you did go through a puddle, what would the effect be on the turbine wheel.. someone on this thread stated ONE drop would destroy your turbine. is this true??